more questions about that clutch... - K-Bikes.com - Excellence in Motion
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old Jun 29th, 2010, 5:25 pm Thread Starter
MIK
Senior Member
 
MIK's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Acton, MA, USA
Posts: 186
Question more questions about that clutch...

I got some other things to take care off so I never got around fixing that clutch, but I hope to start shortly. Meanwhile, I continue to gather information. I've gotten the Clymer manual and I've read through a bunch of posts here and there. Dang... this is a very intimidating task... but I am going to do it no matter what

So... I made a parts list that I think need to be replaced, copying the list from this post:
http://www.k-bikes.com/forums/attach...achmentid=1182

Here is my list with updated prices:
https://spreadsheets.google.com/pub?...ERaVFlvSV9SNEE

and the question is, what parts do I need to replace for sure? I am thinking -- all the seals, friction plate and the slave cylinder (as suggested by some folks here). The rest of the list is optional and depends on the parts condition. Right? Like the pressure plate? Shouldn't it go forever? Or housing cover?

----

Another question is about raising the frame. Can it be done without a crane or overhead beam? I don't have any of those things in my garage. Also, what kind of jack should I get to put under the engine? Any suggestions?

----

And the last question, where do I get the clutch centering tool and centering tool holder? I can't find those things online so I don't even know how much they cost. I probably should call the dealer, but maybe someone knows a good source (maybe cheaper than at dealer's too)

TIA

Max
MIK is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old Jun 29th, 2010, 7:12 pm
Veteran
 
H96669's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Burton, British Columbia, Canada
Posts: 1,649
I'll do the big one first.....raising the frame! I did my bike last winter without raising the frame, you can get the same action just by lowering the motor. I used jackstands at the foot pegs area and a small hydraulic floor jack under the engine. Would I do that again ? NO!!!!

Besides the safety aspect it causes too much crouching for my old(er) back and knees and the stands are always in the way. But later on I found out that I could have put a steel bar across and through the peg mounts and install the jackstands at the ends of that bar, away from the bike. But you cannot do that right at first because the right mount has to come off in order to remove the shock lower bolt. You can also do something similar if you leave the rear frame/tail piece on, 4 x 4 across and set it down on some sturdy sawhorses, but not easy to work around those. But remember safety first....!

Special tools like the clutch centering tool and clutch holder, if you mean the one to hold the parts centered.......I did not use any of that, there is ways around them all.Even the big socket with a window cut in it....I bought one, used it but never cut it !

I don't know about your clutch parts, would really have to see it, depends a lot on how long and how much the clutch slipped, I got caught once not replacing the diaphragm spring, but the plate/housing cover are quite resillient, they may only need a good sanding and cleaning.

Buying parts before is a good thing sometimes, makes you feel like it is X-mas for the bike, but I'll bet you'll get a little jam or two and have to get more, so you may want to wait until you pull the clutch out and inspect everything until you finalize it all.

Have to edit....Why the pushrod? My bike is 2003 and does have the updated one with the felt on it. You can also drill a weephole there if you are concerned about the potential fluid leaking out of the slave into the bellhousing.That's why I said inspect first, you may not need that, but even if you do, it would be no problem machining one that does not have the groove and install the cheap felt on it. I do have the specs if you need to do that, I carefully measured mine so maybe someday I could save someone $50.00...

Benelli 50cc at 14
Yamaha RD 200 at 16
Yamaha RD 350 at 17
Honda CB 750 F at 18
Honda V45 Sabre at 24
BMW K100RS at 27
BMW R100GS at 34
BMW K1200RS at 53

Last edited by H96669; Jun 29th, 2010 at 7:24 pm.
H96669 is offline  
post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old Jun 29th, 2010, 10:39 pm
Addict
 
The Fllash's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Las Vegas, Nevada, USA
Posts: 513
I paid a lot less for the parts 1 1/2 yrs ago form BMW/Triumph/ M/C Salt lake City.

they charged me
152. for the housing cover vs your 190
61 for Spring vs your 72
159 for clutch plate vs your 175
94 for pres. plate vs your 99
22 for rear seal vs your 28

but is was February
The Fllash is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old Jul 25th, 2010, 12:02 pm Thread Starter
MIK
Senior Member
 
MIK's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Acton, MA, USA
Posts: 186
bearings

does it mean I have to replace the bearings? The other side looks smooth, but the manual says replace them all at the same time. sigh ....
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	p7180463.jpg
Views:	17
Size:	947.3 KB
ID:	12374  
MIK is offline  
post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old Jul 25th, 2010, 3:11 pm
Addict
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: , , UK
Posts: 3,750
I can understand you are looking for a methodical plan, but as others have said you want to factor say a 2 week off road period and start pulling the bike apart.

You have to make judgement calls on each part which might relate to bike year, mileage, the oem parts cost, any visible wear and most important how difficult it might be to go back and replace something later on.

From memory I replaced both those swingarm bearings and they were not a horrendous price. My main reason was I'd found the front swingarm boot disconnected, allowing water to get inside. Unfortunately one bearing journal was a PITA to get out, which I eventually destroyed anyway - but I knew it wasn't very expensive. At the time of teardown my bike had 36K (mostly done by others). My clutch had been smooth and the assembly had no heat blueing, but the disc was over 50% worn. I replaced the clutch slave, all the seals I could see and the disc. Whilst everything was out, I also opened up the starter and alternator to check the brushes (pigs to get at when assembled).



Never pay again for live sex! | Hot girls doing naughty stuff for free! | Chat for free!
voxmagna is offline  
post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old Jul 25th, 2010, 6:23 pm Thread Starter
MIK
Senior Member
 
MIK's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Acton, MA, USA
Posts: 186
Smile

Quote:
Originally Posted by voxmagna
I can understand you are looking for a methodical plan, but as others have said you want to factor say a 2 week off road period and start pulling the bike apart.
Nah, I already started the teardown and I hate to be pressured for time (have enough of that at work ) , so I ride another bike while I am doing the repairs. And since I work on the K only a few hours over the weekends, I don't expect much of the progress anytime soon. I am about to take the transmission off.



thanks, voxmagna, I guess I replace those bearings as well. I'll leave it till I am ready to do the reassembly.

Last edited by MIK; Jul 25th, 2010 at 6:33 pm.
MIK is offline  
post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old Aug 1st, 2010, 1:08 pm Thread Starter
MIK
Senior Member
 
MIK's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Acton, MA, USA
Posts: 186
raising frame

here is how I solved that problem

Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	p8010608.jpg
Views:	6
Size:	844.3 KB
ID:	12393  
MIK is offline  
post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old Aug 2nd, 2010, 10:07 pm Thread Starter
MIK
Senior Member
 
MIK's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Acton, MA, USA
Posts: 186
and here is a timelapse video of my effort... disassembly only for now

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oiehr_2Oitg
MIK is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the K-Bikes.com - Excellence in Motion forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Clutch problems and possible solution (with pix) JCW K12/1300R/R-Sport 16 Aug 20th, 2012 10:15 am
Clutch issues -too hard basket?? rgmrogerwilco K1200RS/GT (Classic) 9 Jan 30th, 2012 11:39 am
Clutch issues - comments please? rgmrogerwilco K1200RS/GT (Classic) 8 Mar 9th, 2009 6:06 pm
clutch cable problems!!!!!!!!!!!!!! gabriel Technical, Repair and Maintenance 1 Nov 12th, 2007 3:22 am
Clutch questions 03 K12GT tyggyr K1200RS/GT (Classic) 12 Oct 18th, 2005 2:00 pm

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome