Stone guard - do's and don'ts - K-Bikes.com - Excellence in Motion
 
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old Sep 1st, 2010, 5:32 am Thread Starter
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Stone guard - do's and don'ts

After eight years of the annual plastic touch up, I decided to apply stone guard film to the leading 200mm of the main fairing panels on my 02 RS. Bought the film, got the nod on how to do it and went for it. (I've applied heaps over the years, including this bike but always small pieces, applied dry, and without water) Anyway, sprayed soapy water and applied the film with the knowledge that as I had used a small amount of soap in the water, the film was "relocatable" if I wasn't happy. WRONG. When I lifted the film I lifted the clear coat, as I had forced the water through tiny stone chips in the clear coat where it reacted with the colour base coat. The colour is water based! The issue is that before a decision can be made as to whether you are happy with the result, you have to squeeze the water out and it's this process that forces the water through small stone chips in the clear coat. Any way, instead of paying a professional a few bucks to do it, I've had to pay the professional painter a couple of grand to respray the entire panel work (I'm a fussy bugger when it comes to metallic paint) when there was very little wrong with it in the first place. Some things are best left to those who really know what they are doing.

2002 K1200RS Owned from new. Pacific Blue, Ohlins. 183,000kmís
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old Sep 1st, 2010, 10:16 am
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the soapy water making the film relocatable means making small movements to the film BEFORE squeegee-ing all the water out. After you force the water out, it will be more or less permanent. The same goes for any sticky film, vinyl graphics, window tint... So you did it right, but you should've adjusted it before you squeegeed

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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old Sep 3rd, 2010, 11:28 am
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Interesting this as to the paint being water based. I know it is for the Eurospecs bikes, but tought the US/Canada specs were Oil based. Anyone knows that one ???

In any case a good warning for anyone wanting to remove that type of film later on, may avoid some nasty surprises.

I may have some rock chips on my paint too, but for now they are under a 20,000 Kms accumulation of dirt and bugs and cannot be seen..... I was thinking of applying some film too in some spots, but that may not be as easy on a two-tone fairing because of the raised pinstripes/decals that may make the squeegeeing out of the lube harder.I've applied quite a bit of films over the years, mostly window stuff,but I know how hard it is to position, even the squeegeeing out of the lube tends to move them out of position.

But considering your expensive experience,I'll wait until I get a definite answer as to the paint composition or use some of the nonpermanent sprayable film for when I go on the road for weeks. But that nonpermanent film , while effective.....does not look very good until well blended with a good coat of bugs and crud......!

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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old Sep 3rd, 2010, 3:18 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by H96669
Interesting this as to the paint being water based. I know it is for the Eurospecs bikes, but tought the US/Canada specs were Oil based. Anyone knows that one ???


But considering your expensive experience,I'll wait until I get a definite answer as to the paint composition or use some of the nonpermanent sprayable film for when I go on the road for weeks. But that nonpermanent film , while effective.....does not look very good until well blended with a good coat of bugs and crud......!
What a coincidence that you guys should be talking about this stuff right when I'm doing some research on my own into protective films and paint. My dealership told me they can't sell me paint (except for touch-up pens), and one of the things I was looking to do was have someone paint my helmet to match the bike. My dealership pointed me to a company called ColorRite. I talked to them today, and discovered that they can't ship to my address because the paint is solvent-based and I'm in a "no paint zone" courtesy of the California legislature. Encinitas, on the other hand, is for some reason not in the no paint zone, so my son will be getting the paint.
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old Sep 4th, 2010, 12:26 am Thread Starter
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Hmmm, My friendly spray painter logged my paint code (#744) on the computer and it immediately spat out my colour and year - 02 K12RS in Pacific Blue. Definitely water based down here. As I mentioned, the only up side apart from a few scratches and hundreds of stone chips being repaired is the application of a ceramic clear coat. Looks better than the original although only time will tell on that one. The painter seemed to think there was a ceramic (or similar) clear coat there already as it was incredibly durable compared to paint on other marques.
As for stone film, its the first (and last) time I will ever use water. Having said that, my panels have come back painted and with a strip of film on them, applied with water, and they look awesome. My advice, for anyone putting large areas of film onto already stone chipped panels, is to get a professional to do it. That way someone else foots the bill if it all goes to custard

2002 K1200RS Owned from new. Pacific Blue, Ohlins. 183,000kmís
2016 K1300R Black, Remus hexacone. 6000kmís
The family history
1951 AJS 500 single - my Dads
1916 Triumph Type H, Western front, France WW1 - my Grandads
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old Sep 4th, 2010, 2:09 pm
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A little searching yesterday......Glasurit by BASF seems to be the paint used by BMW so anyone using that paint system should be able to colormatch our bikes.

But looking at their website, they do offer that paint system in both Water Base (Glasurit 90) and Solvent Base (Glasurit 55), which does bring me back to my original question......are the US/Canada Specs bikes using the solvent based paint or like the Kiwi and Euro Specs the water based?

And also from their website, quite a few different clearcoats available, some seemingly better at resisting chipping.

I bought some ColorRite paint pens for my bike (Solvent base). I had to order/buy them at a retailer, no shipping on paints from the US to Canada,but while they did list my paints, they certainly do not have all the other colors available....sorry none of that beautiful Pacific Blue.

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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old Sep 14th, 2010, 2:21 pm
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Clear Plastic Wrap?

For some reason the thread "Clear Plastic Wrap" didn't get linked to this thread "Stone Guard Do's and Don'ts". The threads treat the same topic and Flyingkiwi and others had some good comments there that didn't for some reason get repeated. If you're interested in clear plastic self stick paint protection check it out.
Link:http://www.k-bikes.com/forums/showthread.php?t=22598
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old Sep 14th, 2010, 3:23 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by H96669
A little searching yesterday......Glasurit by BASF seems to be the paint used by BMW so anyone using that paint system should be able to colormatch our bikes.

But looking at their website, they do offer that paint system in both Water Base (Glasurit 90) and Solvent Base (Glasurit 55), which does bring me back to my original question......are the US/Canada Specs bikes using the solvent based paint or like the Kiwi and Euro Specs the water based?

And also from their website, quite a few different clearcoats available, some seemingly better at resisting chipping.

I bought some ColorRite paint pens for my bike (Solvent base). I had to order/buy them at a retailer, no shipping on paints from the US to Canada,but while they did list my paints, they certainly do not have all the other colors available....sorry none of that beautiful Pacific Blue.
From my understanding, the solvent-based touch-up paints BMW used to supply were the reason they got nixed in the US. Now it's water-based, especially in California. The BMW touch-ups are again showing up at the dealers (not all colors though).

The harder the clear coat the better off you'll be from chip damage. BMW stuff is pretty soft stuff, imho. Then, you end up adding a lot more stuff to it too like catalysts and special reducers and maybe even a hardener or stuff to make it flexible a bit. Dupont Imron Elite had some really hard stuff that was fire-proof too. Can't get it in CA, but I've heard of people going to other states to get it. Pretty toxic to breath or so I've been told, but I've breathed a lot of it too over the years.


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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old Sep 17th, 2010, 3:44 am
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chips

I like H96669s approach, outta sight , outta mind!!!! Brilliant
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old Sep 18th, 2010, 9:03 pm
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Originally Posted by B52G
I like H96669s approach, outta sight , outta mind!!!! Brilliant
Eh...it is clean now and no did not find any rock chips under that crud, so maybe yes it does work.....!

Can't say the same for my new car however.....!

Benelli 50cc at 14
Yamaha RD 200 at 16
Yamaha RD 350 at 17
Honda CB 750 F at 18
Honda V45 Sabre at 24
BMW K100RS at 27
BMW R100GS at 34
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