yet another clutch problem - K-Bikes.com - Excellence in Motion
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old Oct 17th, 2010, 6:37 am Thread Starter
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yet another clutch problem

Hello guys and gals
I`m new to the K family but hoping to stick around if I falll in love with the new to me K12 RS on yellow colour scheme
Here`s the story
Bike has over 82K`s is a 2001
Got it from a gentleman that did not know much about bikes but it seemed that service was done regularly and on time.So he said as well.After 8 monts bike fired instantly and engine runs smooth.I`ll get fresh gas and fresh oil change I`m already impressed
Here`s the problem that it looks unique to this bike after reading all clutch related treads;
The clutch is or it seems fully engaged but if someone confirms that pushrods can get stuck than mistery`s over.I get no friction whatsoever and yes there is dirty oil(clutch oil?) pissing where engine mates with the tranny.Yesterday I started the terdown waiting on the manual.
What do the experts here say?
The guy I bought it from told me that it was a sudden clutch failure leaving him stranded.Anyone can point me to some tutorial on "How to"since the manual will be here in 10-12 days.I have a severe itch to go out there in the garage and fix it before cold settles in NE
Thank you all
Peace
Claudio
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old Oct 17th, 2010, 8:50 am
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Before you tore into it. Did you check the clutch master cylinder fluid and operation??

Did the clutch release and change gears even though there is no forward motion???

It might have been better to ask questions here(and other sites) before you took it apart. Things can get very, very expensive by rushing into something with just gut feelings or a guess.

Bruce C
'04 K1200RS Capri Blue(totaled)
2008 Triumph Sprint ST
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old Oct 17th, 2010, 9:06 am Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brucecha
Before you tore into it. Did you check the clutch master cylinder fluid and operation??

Did the clutch release and change gears even though there is no forward motion???

It might have been better to ask questions here(and other sites) before you took it apart. Things can get very, very expensive by rushing into something with just gut feelings or a guess.
Yes ,looks like very low level and clutch is very mushy.It feels like the gears are changing by the "feel of it".I`ll dig more today and report here of my findings.Looks like seals will be replaced whether they good or not swingarm grease,splines lubed,am I missing something?Is my first shafty singleside swingarm.I`m impressed how well thaught out this bike is.All the bolts and nuts are the right size,where they need to be too.A bitch to get to the darn clutch doh
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old Oct 17th, 2010, 10:01 am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brucecha
Before you tore into it. Did you check the clutch master cylinder fluid and operation??

Did the clutch release and change gears even though there is no forward motion???

It might have been better to ask questions here(and other sites) before you took it apart. Things can get very, very expensive by rushing into something with just gut feelings or a guess.

That and....looks like you need a manual! This one will get you started,you can download it in less than 10 minutes. I used it for my tear down, but you will need the Clymer too for the rebuilt, if only for ways around the "Special Tools".

http://www.tradebit.com/filedetail.p...rcycle-service

Take half a day or so and read some posts on that, you'll avoid some nasty time consuming and expensive surprises.

Benelli 50cc at 14
Yamaha RD 200 at 16
Yamaha RD 350 at 17
Honda CB 750 F at 18
Honda V45 Sabre at 24
BMW K100RS at 27
BMW R100GS at 34
BMW K1200RS at 53
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old Oct 18th, 2010, 9:58 pm
MIK
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Quote:
Originally Posted by H96669
you will need the Clymer too for the rebuilt
+1. Clymer makes it much easier to understand what needs to be done. I can't imagine doing this rather involved job without it.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oiehr_2Oitg
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old Oct 19th, 2010, 12:58 am
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Claudio,I suspect you have what I had: the clutch slave cylinder failed spewing brake fluid on the clutch and the relevant seals.You seem to have no fear!Good for you! I am sure it is very fixable for a wrencher,ie,it's not rocket science,but.....Once it is fixed,you will love this bike.
Mine failed but was repaired under warranty.04.The failure was very sudden and almost symptomless,until you ran out of clutch!
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old Oct 19th, 2010, 8:26 pm Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jgr451
Claudio,I suspect you have what I had: the clutch slave cylinder failed spewing brake fluid on the clutch and the relevant seals.You seem to have no fear!Good for you! I am sure it is very fixable for a wrencher,ie,it's not rocket science,but.....Once it is fixed,you will love this bike.
Mine failed but was repaired under warranty.04.The failure was very sudden and almost symptomless,until you ran out of clutch!
Hah,what can go wrong?I do suspect stripped splines on the clutch however.It has to be some grab on that clutch unles the PO just revved the engine for half an hour trying to make it home.I`d probably do the same.I`d take a burned clutch over walking anytime .Took that boat anchor of the muffler out .Geez that thing is heavyyyyy.
I just pray that will be it.Clymer manual will be ordered tomorow if my dealer doesn`t have it in stock.Weekend comin` is full blast terdown and the laundry list of parts will be drafted
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old Nov 2nd, 2010, 7:54 pm Thread Starter
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Finished the clutch job not bad but I won`t do it again in the same fashion.If anybody wants to do this I sugest taking the tranny with the whole rear-end together.It turned out the engine output shaft seal leaked badly.The clutch was non-existent,bits of it hit the bell housing poking a hole into it, no biggye.
I poped a code on the ABS by running the bike on the center stand,anyone knows how to reset it?
Here`s the culprit
http://picasaweb.google.com/cndijmar...67630896701346
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old Nov 2nd, 2010, 8:18 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clanut
I sugest taking the tranny with the whole rear-end together.
There are so many other seals that can leak that disconnecting tranny from the rest of the rear end is a must, IMO. In my case, output transmission seal and seal next to the clutch slave cylinder were leaking, the main seal, OTOH, was just fine, but I replaced it anyway and all of the tranny seals... just in case.
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old Nov 2nd, 2010, 8:39 pm Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MIK
There are so many other seals that can leak that disconnecting tranny from the rest of the rear end is a must, IMO. In my case, output transmission seal and seal next to the clutch slave cylinder were leaking, the main seal, OTOH, was just fine, but I replaced it anyway and all of the tranny seals... just in case.
I ended up changing ALL seals on the tranny whether they were good or not and the new clutch slave.If the clutch creeps up in say 15-20K`s I won`t repeat the process All splines were lubed and those needle bearings as well,What a PITA!And $700 in parts wow
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