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GT Dilemma

5K views 22 replies 9 participants last post by  flyingkiwi 
#1 ·
So here's one for you. I have an '04 GT with just over 50,000miles on it. Great bike, obviously and runs well etc... I do about 500mile a week on it when the roads aren't icey and/or covered in salt/grit. However, it's got a few propper scratches in the fairing and the panniers had already been touched up (badly) when I bought it, the rear wheel could do with refurbishing and it would be nice to have a little more mid range power for when in the mountains.
I have been considering replacing it but my budget is limited and my 6'8" frame makes thing more difflicult still, so started thinking about making the bike I have nicer. The paintwork I can get sorted but this year in The Alps, I realised it's 'as standard' limits so would like to hear from anyone whos improved the performance or handling of their RS/GT, related costs and results. I don't expect to get motoGP handling from it but lets face it, milk turns quicker!
 
#2 ·
Improve the handling.....Where is Mr. FlyingKiwi??? :teeth :teeth :teeth

I did get some Ohlins this year, what can I say but WOW !!!! And Thanks to Alpinebiker and his videos, I know I am riding on roads very similar to the Alps. :ricky

And....next time you hit a sharp dip in the middle of an S-curve, you'll probably want Ohlins. :yeow: The cost....somewhat irrelevant when safety is concerned! :eek:ldster:
 
#4 ·
I found my Ohlins to be worth the money I spent. But, I have a '98 K12RS
with 96,000 miles on it, so I'm still getting my money's worth. :teeth

They make the bike a lot more stable in the corners, no bottoming out at all on bumps.

As for turn in ? Well, the bike has about a 25 foot wheelbase, not much you can do about that.

I will say that tire selection makes a huge difference. Years ago, Michelin had the original Pilot Sports and they had a triangular profile on the front tire. They turned in immediately. I loved'em.
 
#5 ·
shook sez said:
I found my Ohlins to be worth the money I spent. .

That said, the Wilbers shocks get good reviews. There has to be other shocks out there as well.
If you have 50K miles on your original shocks, they've been pretty well shot for the last 25-30K miles and damned near nything will be a marked improvement :eek:ldster:
 
#6 ·
H96669 said:
And....next time you hit a sharp dip in the middle of an S-curve, you'll probably want Ohlins. :yeow:

There I'm editing.....you'll probably also want an Ohlin.....in front! :teeth

I debated a few brands of shocks, it came down as to how easy it would be to have them rebuilt here in Canada. So Ohlins it was. :thumb:

Turn in, that's easy.....new Michelin PR2s! :thumb:

And maybe....some new boots! Mine are old and too long, I scrape the toes first, kind of an early warning system. :teeth :teeth :teeth
 
#9 ·
Yep, Ohlins (or any quality shock) is definitely the way to go as the bike ages. Replace as a pair, and while not cheap, the improvements are beyond words :teeth I also run michelin,-PR2 on the rear, and a pilot power up front. Turning in is simply a case of a little counter steer, and in she goes with bumps and pot holes doing little to upset the balance. Need a tighter turn in? - simply apply a little more counter steer. I find ensuring your arms are bent and relaxed with a body position well forward helps with the balance when the going gets fast and tight. :) I went from being white knuckled and arm sore from fighting the courners :yeow: to relaxed and total enjoyment in the twisties. -the difference really is that great :D :D :D K12's will never handle like a pure sports bike, but, in capable hands will give many a good fright. On the other hand K12's will run all day two up and leave the rider wishing there were more hours in the day. Can't think of a sports bike that would do that! A word of advice - buy your Ohlins from a reputable dealer and preferably local. Makes adjustments much easier. The dealer must ask you your body weight, ready to ride, so he can set up the correct spring in the shock. He may well ask you your general riding style and how often you ride two up, all helping to ensure you get the maximum benefit from the new shocks.
 
#10 ·
Not to hijack - but ....

Do you folks that have made the change to Ohlin's and proper tires find that after initiating a turn, that you still have to keep pressure on the bars to keep the bike from standing up ?

My 04 GT just doesn't want to stay turned while going through a corner.
 
#13 ·
flyingkiwi said:
Absolutely NOT!!! Courners can be tackled one handed with ease.
I see.....I guess I am not the only one doing that......sometimes! Never did with the OEM shocks however! :teeth
 
#14 · (Edited)
In direct answer to your Q....paraphrasing a moto mag...like a bad kid, you have stuff its nose in the corner and hold it there till you are satisfied with the results. I simply love mine, but until the new 1300s, had done nothing but various RSs since '91. I have over 128 K on my '00 K12RS and have Wilbers on it, love them totally. Got them when cheaper than Ohlins. I also have a Rhinewest cam gear/chip kit, which I believe they no longer make, and it REALLY makes a difference in usable torque, but was only for stock pipe. Depending on riding - this is now being ridden more like an RT since the S moved in - I have had great luck with BT 010/020 combos as well as Pilot Roads. Also simply loved the RS with a set of Pirellis. For better turn in, I used a set of Pilot Race (DOT Race rubber) compound a few years ago, Front was a 110/70 instead of 120/70, made a BIG difference in turn-in and they actually lasted 4 track days and then ran out to 2500 miles!!!! Not good in cold or wet, but for summer in the Motherload they were GREAT!! So, after 20 sets of tires, yeah, they do make a big difference, but it will never handle like an R1 or an S1000RR. But with the right tires and suspension and skills, you can ride around a few of those guys. But only 4000 miles on PR2? Hmmmmm I have over that on my PR2CT on my S (including a track day), and they have plenty to go.....I routinely get 7-8k on Pilot Roads on the RS. Well rounded to the edge, very little squaring off...
 
#15 ·
flyingkiwi said:
Absolutely NOT!!! Courners can be tackled one handed with ease.
I should add that I also now enjoy riding in the last 10% of the tyre instead of dreading it. Tyre life up front is improved with a suspension upgrade as you are no longer fighting the bike to get it around courners. The front tyre no longer 'cups' or wears unevenly. I get 10,000km up front and 14 - 15,000km on the rear, with pretty agressive riding alot of the time :teeth :teeth :teeth Do you need any more convincing? Yes its a lot of cash, but remember, the original shocks can be reinstalled at sale time and the Ohlins sold on ebay.....
 
#16 · (Edited)
I should add that I also have an '07 K1200S and an '00 YZF600R.

I get about the same tire mileage on those 2 as I do on the '04 GT.

I don't have to "wrestle" either the '07 K1200S or the '00 YZF600R, both of which are bone stock. I'd have to say that the handling characteristics of the '04 GT are just the nature of the beast (IMHO). Some of my friends have ridden the GT and they also say that "she wants to stand up" in corners. I would be the first to admit that I wouldn't expect the GT to handle like the other 2, but the need for continual steering input in a corner seems a bit much. I can understand that one would have to make a more forceful input at the bars to initate a turn for the GT, but to have to maintain a constant preesure on the inside bar to keep the bike turning gets weary.
 
#17 ·
Hey realwrld, I know as well as anyone what you are experiencing. :yeow: Beg, borrow or steel a ride on an Ohlins equipped ride and experience the difference. But I thought there would have been enough convincing on these pages. :clap: BTW Showa are very basic, non rebuildable shocks that IMHO should never have been fitted to a ride of this quality and price. :dunno:
 
#19 ·
The handling is great IF you are a active rider. Position your body inboard of a turn before the turn and she will follow. Actually she will carve in deeper than you might expect. Standing up in a curve usually happens when the body is right on the inline axis of the bike.Also with that body position pegs and such drag far to easily. Do this active ride style and she is a joy to ride in sweepers to tight stuff with much more ground clearance and quickness. The place you will feel the weight is in tight back to back turns where you are flicking peg to peg.. I am also learning that if you get your torso low to the tank and inboard speeds pick up another notch. For reference on one 270 degree smooth turn I travel regularly, marked advisory at 30 mph. If I sit mostly upright, pegs are scrapping at 50 or so and you are holding the bike down in the curve with countersteering. If I have a nice suggestion of inboard body weight, nothing extreme, the bike feels somewhat more neutral and the pegs touch about 55. If I put my cheek off the seat, have head OVER towards mirror AND relax upper arm over the tank, (that makes a huge difference too.. being relaxed) knee will touch before peg at 60 and I am having to correct for the bike wanting to carve in closer. If I put my torso low so left torso/chest is actually touch top right side of tank, stay relaxed, keep head over inside mirror, I will be at 65 without knee or peg touching. At this point the bike is actually feeling very neutral with it going with where I am looking and body is leading it.

This clearly is a bike you lead in the dance and she will follow.

Seriously, if you want to enjoy the bike you have to be sliding off the seat a bit. At the least, put your shoulder and head and torso into the turn before the bike. She will follow.

Also, have your suspension hard as that will give positive results to handling. Not so much the tighter suspension but the bit of extra height.

Tires make a difference too. I find Metzler z6 to make it feel a bit heavy but are best solid straight line,. Michelin PR2s are taller and at slower speeds seem to make the bike floppy in slow speed curves and are the best for not wanting to drift to right on slab. The ones that give it best neutral feeling and willingness to turn are Dunlop Q2s, IMHO. ( I have used two sets of each in the last 18 months)

NCS





 
#20 ·
I am so with Kiwi's responses,I couldn't say it any better.I am 58 years old,6 feet,205 lbs . I have been riding since I was 19.This is the best bike I have ever had(04 GT).Yes he is heavy and requires to be muscled consciously into and through corners,still,he is a freight train on rails and will not surprise you or let you down. I do not find him surprising or alarming.I call him "Das Pig" and "Das Whale". He is not as nimble as many lighter bikes.I have the uber expensive Ohlins front and rear and no regrets. I also changed the steering damper and the gas line QDs.

No doubt others feel differently about their passions,but ,you asked,I answered.

I knew I had "got" this bike when my gf,who doesn't like it when it leans or goes fast said:"When you passed those 2 semis going uphill as if they were standing still" on Hwy 101 in Oregon..she noticed nothing untoward..I may have hit 140 from 40,in instants.That said it all. No fuss no muss.
 
#21 ·
#22 ·
Excellent advice NCS - that is the way I ride (most of the time). :yesnod:
Proper technique does indeed help give me the upper hand in the wrestling match. :teeth
One certainly cannot ride this bike as if they were sitting on a couch and expect to get any kind of worthwhile experience from it.

I also agree with your tire assessments. I will try the Dunlops next

jgr451 - holy moley :eek: What you wrote very closely describes me and the wife.

H96669 - Thanks for the Link info - I reckon I will just go ahead.

I appreciate all the help Gents !
 
#23 ·
Hey NCS your pictures do more justice than my words ever could. :clap: Very nice composure and style. I get my but off the seat, but not that much, and I've never had the knee on the black top :yeow:
 
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