Brake Pedal Adjustment..... - K-Bikes.com - Excellence in Motion
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old Jan 9th, 2006, 3:46 pm Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 330
Brake Pedal Adjustment.....

OK, I've got my brake light project done. Time for a new one. Since my foot/boots are so big, when I am riding my foot "rests" on brake pedal slightly and keeps the brake light on. I realized this after my buddies who ride with me told me my brake light was stuck on, and my cruise would not set, or kept going off. Anyway, pics hopefully went thru, can anyone tell me how to "lower" the pedal downward 2-3 inches??. I tried loosening the bolt holding on the pedal, and also loosening the threaded shaft that goes up in ?servo (rubber booted) thinghy, but that was useless. I could remove the pedal totally and have my friend cut and add a piece in there to make it lower (he is a metal craftsman, and expert on aluminum, and any other welding) but, I would rather not go that route. And, the footpegs have already been moved. If you get what I'm getting at, pivoting the pedal downward slightly is what I want to do. Thanks.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG00003.JPG
Views:	113
Size:	47.1 KB
ID:	1303   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG00014.JPG
Views:	113
Size:	47.5 KB
ID:	1304  
RedHawK12GT is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old Jan 9th, 2006, 4:19 pm
No bogey's twist wrist
 
dkeven's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Chapel Hill, TN, USA
Posts: 619
pedal move

try a combination of shortening the linkage that goes into the brake master cylinder (rubber booted thingy) and adding a longer bolt that goes to the micro switch that turns the brake light on. Otherwise the spring just keeps it in the full up position. make sure the head of the bolt that touches the micro switch strip of metal is rounded and polished somewhat.

If it's got curves ride it.
life member NRA, GOA and Tennessee Firearms Owners Association.
dkeven is offline  
post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old Jan 9th, 2006, 4:55 pm Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 330
Question Revisited...

Quote:
Originally Posted by dkeven
try a combination of shortening the linkage that goes into the brake master cylinder (rubber booted thingy) and adding a longer bolt that goes to the micro switch that turns the brake light on. Otherwise the spring just keeps it in the full up position. make sure the head of the bolt that touches the micro switch strip of metal is rounded and polished somewhat.
OK, you mean up near the front of the pedal, the blackish bolt that goes up to some sort of piece of strip?. This bolt, which is already extended fully, you mean I would have to put in a longer bolt, plus adjust thinghy??.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG00011-1.JPG
Views:	60
Size:	42.8 KB
ID:	1312   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG00003-1.JPG
Views:	71
Size:	58.0 KB
ID:	1313  

Last edited by RedHawK12GT; Jan 9th, 2006 at 4:59 pm. Reason: Add another pic...
RedHawK12GT is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old Jan 9th, 2006, 5:17 pm
Veteran
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: , SoCal., USA
Posts: 1,507
You can add bolt length or generally fiddle with anything you want to on the brake pedal to adjust it to where you want, but when all said and done you must have about .008" free play between the stop bolt and brake light switch, before all slop in the master cylinder piston rod is lost.
In other words. When you get finished moving the lever. Put a .008 feeler between the adjusting bolt head and the brake light switch plate. Loosen the piston rod locknut, screw in the rod to create play. Then tighten the rod to just eliminate the play and lock down the locknut. Remove the feeler and you should be able to wiggle the master cylinder piston rod slightly.
This is done to adjust the blow-by clearance in the master cylinder.
Bruce C
brucecha is offline  
post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old Jan 9th, 2006, 6:56 pm Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 330
Revisited....

Quote:
Originally Posted by brucecha
You can add bolt length or generally fiddle with anything you want to on the brake pedal to adjust it to where you want, but when all said and done you must have about .008" free play between the stop bolt and brake light switch, before all slop in the master cylinder piston rod is lost.
In other words. When you get finished moving the lever. Put a .008 feeler between the adjusting bolt head and the brake light switch plate. Loosen the piston rod locknut, screw in the rod to create play. Then tighten the rod to just eliminate the play and lock down the locknut. Remove the feeler and you should be able to wiggle the master cylinder piston rod slightly.
This is done to adjust the blow-by clearance in the master cylinder.
Bruce C
OK, I really (sincerely) appreciate the comebacks. But, I must be stupid. I understand the part about the .008 clearance, check<. But, you are saying yes, put in a longer bolt to pivot pedal downward 2-3 inches (after loosening the rod that has the lock not as my pic shows, which in fact has a small protective clip over it) then, screw the rod clockwise towards the top of cylinder?. Then, as you mentioned, remove the feeler after tightening down the rod and locknut. I in no way have to loosen the bolt that connects the actual pedal to the bike, correct??. This shortening of the rod, do you know if this is recommended, and will not effect the way the whole thing works?. I think I understand your principle. Appreciate any comeback(s). Thanks. I'll get my K12 CD out and view the areas you are talking about.
RedHawK12GT is offline  
post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old Jan 9th, 2006, 7:27 pm
Veteran
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: , SoCal., USA
Posts: 1,507
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1200GTosprey
OK, I really (sincerely) appreciate the comebacks. But, I must be stupid. I understand the part about the .008 clearance, check<. But, you are saying yes, put in a longer bolt to pivot pedal downward 2-3 inches (after loosening the rod that has the lock not as my pic shows, which in fact has a small protective clip over it) then, screw the rod clockwise towards the top of cylinder?. Then, as you mentioned, remove the feeler after tightening down the rod and locknut. I in no way have to loosen the bolt that connects the actual pedal to the bike, correct??. This shortening of the rod, do you know if this is recommended, and will not effect the way the whole thing works?. I think I understand your principle. Appreciate any comeback(s). Thanks. I'll get my K12 CD out and view the areas you are talking about.
I will stay COMPLEATLY out of the merits of installing longer bolts or of cutting the master cylinder piston rod to achieve a lower brake pedal. The point of my post was that you must have the brake piston against it's internal stop for the master cylinder blow-by port to function properly. There can be NO tension on this rod when you are all through changing your pedal height and the pedal is at it's rest position.
Right behind the clevis clip on the brake piston rod is the locknut that you must loosen to adjust the master cylinder piston rod free play. You should not have to remove this clip or rod to make this adjustment when the pedal is in it's stock position.

Bruce C
brucecha is offline  
post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old Jan 9th, 2006, 7:50 pm
No bogey's twist wrist
 
dkeven's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Chapel Hill, TN, USA
Posts: 619
Smile brake adjustment

yes you don't need to loosen or remove the bolt holding the pedal on, Yes this is a change from original done properly should prove no problems. Agree 100% on the free play adjustment it has to be there. This is a less radical approach then cutting the brake lever. And fully returnable to stock as the only thing done is adjustment and a longer bolt. I installed a longer bolt on mine for a less radical move (.5 inch) as the existing one is almost extended all the way out in stock form. As always your results may vary,

If it's got curves ride it.
life member NRA, GOA and Tennessee Firearms Owners Association.
dkeven is offline  
post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old Jan 9th, 2006, 8:00 pm Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 330
Ok.........

Quote:
Originally Posted by brucecha
I will stay COMPLEATLY out of the merits of installing longer bolts or of cutting the master cylinder piston rod to achieve a lower brake pedal. Bruce C
OK, got ya. Since this (adjuster) bolt is extended all the way out now, it would seem logical to me that this bolt by screwing it in more would only bring the pedal upward^, for someone that wanted to adjust it in that direction. No, I would not attempt to cut/shorten that rod that goes to master cylinder. I guess the only way is to remove the pedal, and have my welder friend cut a short part out and angle the pedal down a little. I see no other way (unless someone jumps in here). He did this for me on a Suzuki before. We removed the pedal, and he put a short (2") piece in and welded it up. This made the actual "pad" of the lever more under the ball of my foot, rather than the arch area of my foot. Worked good. Well, this is gonna get complicated. I just viewed my pics I took, and that adjuster bolt is up within 3"? from front of pedal. If any piece is added, it would have to be in front of this. Let's see if somebody can give me some hints. Thanks.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG00014-1.JPG
Views:	64
Size:	33.3 KB
ID:	1316  
RedHawK12GT is offline  
post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old Jan 9th, 2006, 10:38 pm
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 589
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1200GTosprey
OK, got ya. Since this (adjuster) bolt is extended all the way out now, it would seem logical to me that this bolt by screwing it in more would only bring the pedal upward^, for someone that wanted to adjust it in that direction. No, I would not attempt to cut/shorten that rod that goes to master cylinder. I guess the only way is to remove the pedal, and have my welder friend cut a short part out and angle the pedal down a little. I see no other way (unless someone jumps in here). He did this for me on a Suzuki before. We removed the pedal, and he put a short (2") piece in and welded it up. This made the actual "pad" of the lever more under the ball of my foot, rather than the arch area of my foot. Worked good. Well, this is gonna get complicated. I just viewed my pics I took, and that adjuster bolt is up within 3"? from front of pedal. If any piece is added, it would have to be in front of this. Let's see if somebody can give me some hints. Thanks.
Osprey,
As others have stated, you need to keep freeplay in the rod that actuates the master cylinder. If you sit on the floor and move the pedal with your hand, you can actually feel/hear the point when the rod hits the master cylinder piston. It's important to keep this freeplay so the brake caliper is not partially activated, causing a potential for a major problem, the brake locking up, overheating, catching fire! From reading the above, I think you understand this.
I don't think there is enough adjustment in the master cylinder push rod to allow the amount of movement you want. You will most likely have to make the welding adjustment to the brake pedal itself.
Bobmws is offline  
post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old Jan 9th, 2006, 11:35 pm Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 330
Thumbs up OK.......Thanks.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bobmws
Osprey,
I don't think there is enough adjustment in the master cylinder push rod to allow the amount of movement you want. You will most likely have to make the welding adjustment to the brake pedal itself.
Thanks very much guys. This is an excellent site. I will sit on doing this awhile. Want to ride maybe this week.....supposedly going to 40 degrees all week. Pretty good for upstate
New York.
RedHawK12GT is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the K-Bikes.com - Excellence in Motion forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Brake Fluid Reservoir Empty - Again? OCRSRider K1200RS/GT (Classic) 18 Jun 28th, 2008 10:19 am
Brake issues eric2 K12/1300S 11 Jun 30th, 2006 11:29 am
Rear Brake Problem kencorsun K12/1300S 17 Jan 1st, 2006 2:50 pm
Brake problems ManfredH K12/1300S 1 Nov 2nd, 2005 9:03 am
Brake pedal K12GT........ RedHawK12GT K1200RS/GT (Classic) 3 Nov 1st, 2005 12:50 pm

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome