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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old Jan 16th, 2006, 6:24 pm Thread Starter
 
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ABS Woes

Hi all,

new member with a problem and looking for advice from the group.

My 99 K1200RS has developed a fault with the ABS and the flashing warning lights are now a permanent fixture.

Some two months ago there was a load clunk from the ABS box and the lights started flashing. The fault was cleared by the local BMW dealer. Two weeks ago it happened again. This time it would not clear for anything but a few seconds.

The dealer talked to BMW and was advised to replace all the brake fluid in the unit and to try resetting it again. I was told that these devices can "seize up" if they are not used, i.e. the ABS isn't used in a sudden breaking situation, and sometimes they can be bought back to life by changing the fluid and re-setting.

I am told this fault occurs because the piston in the unit only uses its full length of travel when it activates the ABS.

This worked for about 5km and then "clunk" and the ABS warning lights are flashing at me again.

The diagnostics are saying to replace the unit.

Has anyone experienced a like occurance and found a fix, or can offer any suggestions on an approach to looking for a fix?

Also, if this is true, I would advise everyone to jump on their rear brake occasionally to activate the ABS to stop this happening.

Thanks in advance,

Tony
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old Jan 17th, 2006, 5:23 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Re5guy
Hi all,

new member with a problem and looking for advice from the group.

My 99 K1200RS has developed a fault with the ABS and the flashing warning lights are now a permanent fixture.

Some two months ago there was a load clunk from the ABS box and the lights started flashing. The fault was cleared by the local BMW dealer. Two weeks ago it happened again. This time it would not clear for anything but a few seconds.

The dealer talked to BMW and was advised to replace all the brake fluid in the unit and to try resetting it again. I was told that these devices can "seize up" if they are not used, i.e. the ABS isn't used in a sudden breaking situation, and sometimes they can be bought back to life by changing the fluid and re-setting.

I am told this fault occurs because the piston in the unit only uses its full length of travel when it activates the ABS.

This worked for about 5km and then "clunk" and the ABS warning lights are flashing at me again.

The diagnostics are saying to replace the unit.

Tony
I just went through this with my '00 R1100RT. The exact same symptoms. I tried bleeding the brakes, etc. but no fix. I purchased a new (new in box) ABS unit from an individual for $400 which solved the problem. It's a shame that a part for a $1000 option costs $1600+ to replace.

Blchandl2
'00 R1100RT
'04 K12RS
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old Jan 18th, 2006, 9:49 am
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If I understand this correctly, it means that we have to slam on our brakes at regular times to get the piston to move fully so as to try to prolong our box life??

Another thing i am going to have to complain about with our ABS.
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old Jan 18th, 2006, 11:10 am
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not on pavement ...

Quote:
Originally Posted by CA1200
........we have to slam on our brakes at regular times to get the piston to move fully so as to try to prolong our box life??...........
Do it on a dirt or gravel road. It took me three tries to "do it" the first time. Years of NOT locking the brakes makes it very hard to do on purpose, but it's kinda neat. Pavement is just too rough on the tires, imho.

Note: ABS III doesn't store brake fluid in the pump like ABS I and II pumps. In order to do a thorough ABS I or ABS II fluid change the ABS pump must be activated. One way is to bleed the system, find a gravel road, attempt three times to lock the tires and hold them so the ABS cycles, and go back home and bleed the system once more.
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old Jul 19th, 2011, 8:28 pm
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Hi
I Currently have the same problem with my ABS warning lights flashing.
I had the bike through complete diagnostics tests twice by BM master techies. Bled rear brakes twice and at the end of it all I was a couple of hundred dollars poorer and still had the same problem. Both diagnostics seemed to point to a faulty ABS unit.
I'm still hoping to find anything other than having to replace the unit...did I just read that someone picked up an ABS unit for $400?
When I went into the shop to get a price, the guy asked "would you like me to get you a chair?"
After I got hold of the nearest counter to stablise myself before he hits me with the price, he said "$4300 for the unit"
Now you know why I'm Trying everything I possibly can before parting with that sort of cash. Absolutely love the RS...!?
I personally think we're getting a raw deal from BM!
Anyone out there have any picked success than I've had?

Magdi
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old Jul 20th, 2011, 6:07 pm
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You need to find an old geezer like me with years of electronics and mechanical experience who is prepared to open it up and try to fix it (with no guarantee of success).

Unfortunately, most modern techs just follow flow charts with diagnostics computers and tell you to buy a new factory unit. They haven't got a clue how to even start working out what goes on inside with no diagrams or factory instructions.

However, many parts like this can include quite sophistocated micro electronics circuitry, which is often 'a bridge too far' to fault find. But before you reach those parts, there are easier bits to check for faults first.

You have to think that this is becoming a common problem as the bikes get older and it is more likely to be faults on the hydraulic/mechanical side just telling the electronics that its parts are sick. They build most brake and airbag systems now to self check and lockout if something is wrong.



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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old Aug 2nd, 2011, 5:46 pm
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I have had the flashing ABS light issue only twice since I bought my 2000 K12RSL brand new in the spring of 2000. Both times there was nothing wrong with the circuitry or any component. Both times it was because one of the sensors had been knocked out of it's alignment with the ring. Presumably by a small stone. My wife's (now ex-wife's) 95 R11RSL had the exact same problem but hers went out of alignment quite frequently like maybe 2 or 3 times a season. Once you learn how to properly align the sensors you can do it rather quickly. I'm thinking at least some of the ABS isssues reported on this board could likely have the same cause and cure and it might be a good starting point in the troubleshooting process.
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old Aug 3rd, 2011, 4:00 am
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The sensor gap shaould also be checked when the rear brake caliper is removed.

I now put a feeler gage in the sensor gap and check it rotating the wheel, whilst I'm 'positioning' the caliper and torquing down the bolts.



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