Replaceing clutch on K1200rs - K-Bikes.com - Excellence in Motion
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post #1 of 35 (permalink) Old Jun 22nd, 2012, 10:44 pm Thread Starter
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Replaceing clutch on K1200rs

As suspect the o-ring became brittle and leaked oil on the clutch , I was able to get a viton o-ring localy for $1 . The question I would like input on is ths rear main seal , it looks to be the teflon one it is not your regular spring lip type and since it looks well and there were no signs of oil leaking from it I think I may leave it in as well as the trans seals every thing looked very good , I remember "if it's not broke don't fix it , any-way it wil initialy be less work . If some-one ever found a generic tapered needle bearing for the final drive please tell me , I don't like the $48.50 ea from bmw on that .Oh that 30mm outside nut on the swing arm was a buger to bust loose after heating wit propane torch and a 3/4 break-over with a short piece of pipe over it it went CRACK and I thought I broke some-thing but it was OK !!! I've got a sling winched under the engine , a chain hoist holding the rear and a jack under the engine , the front-end is mounted in a wheel chock bolted to a wooden frame box about 2ft of the floor. Some one tell me about these teflon seals please.

Last edited by joesflashdog; Jun 22nd, 2012 at 10:50 pm. Reason: not finished
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post #2 of 35 (permalink) Old Jun 23rd, 2012, 1:36 am
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.................. If some-one ever found a generic tapered needle bearing for the final drive please tell me , I don't like the $48.50 ea from bmw on that .....................

Many of us over here in the UK have for years tried to find an alternative supplier for those bearings but it does seem to be the case that what I was told years ago is true, that the bearing is made for BMW and nobody else can supply it, bummer. Of course there is the JL Paralever bushings from Rubber Chicken Racing over your side of the pond, $120 a set, but by all accounts never wear out if greased regularly.

http://rubberchickenracinggarage.com/bushings.html

Tim
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post #3 of 35 (permalink) Old Jun 23rd, 2012, 4:04 am
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Some one tell me about these teflon seals please 
I can only tell you about what I read and what I did on my '97.

As far as I know those seals were always lip and spring type. Then the silicone seals started to appear and get fitted in the racer bikes, so everybody and probably BMW thought 'what is good for them, is good for us'. The silicone seals now get supplied by dealers for that part. I don't know what bike year they changed over for new bikes.

They are supposed to produce less wear on shafts and use a larger area wiping tension formed by the molding, rather than a lip edge and spring tension ring.

I can see that being true on a factory new shaft, but any shaft which may already have even the smallest wear groove may have sealing problems.

My strategy went something like this: I had no oil leaks from the main seal or the clutch O ring although the clutch disc was over 1/2 worn at 35K miles. When I poked at the clutch O ring, it broke up into hard fragments so obviously on borrowed time. If I got over 35K before another teardown I would be ok with that. I saw no significant wear groove on the shaft in the lip position - but I could see from the coloring where the lip had made contact.

I decided to visit my seal supplier, took the old lip and spring main seal and they matched it up with the same numbers for about £5. That together with a new O ring, disc and clutch slave is what went back. Do not ask about the procedure for fitting a silicone seal (in Clymer), because I steered clear of it.

There are some needle rollers (and bearings) which you will not find on seal supplier lists. There is a large expensive bearing on the RD pinion shaft like that. $48 is nothing compared to what the dealer would be charging you for the whole job!



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Last edited by voxmagna; Jun 23rd, 2012 at 4:10 am.
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post #4 of 35 (permalink) Old Jun 23rd, 2012, 9:28 am Thread Starter
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Thanks for the info on the oil-light bushing kit , that sounds like the ticket !!! kinda pricey though. I was not clear witch bearings I was interested in , but you are spot on that's the part no. I need.I already have the new swing arm bearng kit from ALL BALLS RACEING ( got them off ebay for $25 but they are not a sealed bearing). Voxmagna what I have in the bike looks like it is the teflon seal ,thats what I wanted your input on . I am close to a seal supply and he said he would probly have the seals I need for the clutch job when I was in getting some other o-rings as well as him haveing the viton o-ring $1 . But since it has the teflon rear main already in it I thought it would be OK just to leave it in , I will use the same houseing with a new clutch. This bike is a 2000 modle so the dealer probly had put the new teflon rear main seal in it , is what I think , but did they put the teflon seal in 2000? It has the felt on the clutch push rod , witch looks good. the clutch slave looks great ,very clean brake fluid in it.I'm going to lube the small bearing in it. But if the dealer did do a clutch/seal repair on it it was done well ( I never talked with previous owner) The bike had a K&N air filter and , some-one opened the muffler on top of the coverter , and welded it back shut , I think they took the guts out of it there but some-thing is rattleing in there and I going to have to open it again. The bike had 41000 on it when I bought it and has 52000 now . I've never seen that type seal in any-thing and I've seen some machinery ,the teflon seals are suppose to last very long aren't they ?

Last edited by joesflashdog; Jun 23rd, 2012 at 9:47 am. Reason: add detail
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post #5 of 35 (permalink) Old Jun 23rd, 2012, 2:48 pm Thread Starter
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A puller made of 3/8 all thread and washers and a piece of pvc a threaded nipple (had the right ID) to let the bearing race pass into it , so no marks on the nice aluminium I had made did a good job getting those bearings out of the rear drive and I'm shore will install the new ones with no problem. I'm still wondering about the selection of replacement bushings or bearings though , the jury is stilt on the matter , so $120 for bronze oilite bushings or the stock units for $99 , there are good arguments for each type. but no replacements unless one machines the pins to close to 14.3mm from 17mm thus weakening them (P/N SKF6002VSP AT$26.25 FROM ONE SORCE) and realy not saveing much money.
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post #6 of 35 (permalink) Old Jun 23rd, 2012, 5:22 pm
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I am sure those Teflon seals are a lot more recent than year 2000. Also everything you say points to somebody having been in there and done work. Have you tried giving a dealer your bike VIN to see if it has history?

Personally, if I thought as seems likely that the main seal had been replaced and it was not leaking, I would leave it well alone. It is the clutch O ring and clutch slave cylinder seals that seem to cause most of the oil leak problems. The only reason I replaced mine was not for leaks, but because I knew everything was original and at 35K mileage.

I suspect somebody may have removed the CAT. The only way you could tell is to have a garage pop a CO probe into the exhaust. If CAT the CO emission will be very low, If no CAT it will be high. They have probably done that to get the muffler running cooler and stop the 'hot legs' syndrome.

The CAT is usually a ceramic honeycombe coated with expensive metal like platinum. I had a car where the ceramic frame had cracked and was rattling inside the muffler. It really got on my nerves every time I decelerated. Sold the car eventually!



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post #7 of 35 (permalink) Old Jun 23rd, 2012, 7:20 pm Thread Starter
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Oh yea some-one took the cat stuff out but something is rattleing in it , I have to cut it open again (but I'm puting a plate on that side or do the flexable tubeing + clamp fix on it . The bike runs like a broke dick dog I'm not worried about the negative of it . The clutch is 1/2 worn out by specs so it could be used again for quite some time or miles I like to shift with-out clutch as much as I can , no bad signs fromit as well , wiil use the same amsoil gear box oil after straining it !!! lookin good / I'm leaning toward the bushings but may differ , wish I was still in the machine shope now !!!
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post #8 of 35 (permalink) Old Jun 23rd, 2012, 8:37 pm Thread Starter
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Just the nut holding the clutch assembly will be replaced , it is a true 1 time torque item , the rest the crush-ring housing screws +washers will be used again , I have miked the hex head screws/bolts and there seams to be no problem there. The nut holding the clutch assembly on the splined shaft has to be replaced, it has 2 per side cuts about 150degrees each about 1/3 down the nut that collapses at the torquing of that nut .
but if you are really cheap one could use it as well !
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post #9 of 35 (permalink) Old Jun 23rd, 2012, 8:46 pm Thread Starter
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I'm nearly
4 months post op from a L4-L5 spinal fusion and it seems to be working well.
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post #10 of 35 (permalink) Old Jun 23rd, 2012, 9:31 pm Thread Starter
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White out , the office item to fix typing typing errors , with a brush on the applicator works well to mark ties , nuts , holders , screws , and routing as well . the drive shaft phasing, and all timing marks or identifiers . as well I'm using ties with ID for all connections.
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