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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old Jul 26th, 2012, 12:57 pm Thread Starter
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suspension/shock question

I thought I would start a new thread for this question on my 2002 K1200rs. Seems if I have the original equipment, I will be close to the need to replace my suspension soon, but one of the owners at the shop I go to thought that the suspension may have already been replaced and the shocks weren't original.

I took a picture and hopefully I can post it? But they are Showa B0182. Any help figuring this out would be appreciated.

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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old Jul 26th, 2012, 2:52 pm
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That's OEM....ouf, at least that's not the yellow pogo... aka "Sport Shock".

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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old Jul 26th, 2012, 3:18 pm Thread Starter
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I did notice the BMW emblem on the shock after I took the pic. I thought that was kinda strange for a Japanese company

So how does one tell that it is time to replace these if they aren't leaking and from my point of view, coming from a bike with no suspension (suzuki sv650) the ride is pretty awesome?

and not to sound stupid, what is a sport shock?

thanks,
mrbill

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Originally Posted by H96669
That's OEM....ouf, at least that's not the yellow pogo... aka "Sport Shock".
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old Jul 26th, 2012, 3:24 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrbill812
I thought I would start a new thread for this question on my 2002 K1200rs. Seems if I have the original equipment, I will be close to the need to replace my suspension soon, but one of the owners at the shop I go to thought that the suspension may have already been replaced and the shocks weren't original.

I took a picture and hopefully I can post it? But they are Showa B0182. Any help figuring this out would be appreciated.

mrbill
Yes - this is original for the 2nd generation K1200RS (2002-2004 in the USA market). The top number corresponds to the last 7 digits of the BMW part number for the rear shock assy (BMW part no: 33 53 2 332 695). The other number is probably just a number internal to SHOWA - the supplier of BMW.

By the way, at $US 1050 retail for a NEW rear shock from BMW, almost everyone choose one of the following options instead:
1) Buy 3rd party quality shock from OHLINS
2) Buy 3rd party quality shock from WILBERS
3) Buy a used "low-mileage" shock from an owner who had installed OHLINS or WIBERS early in the life of they K1200RS.

Option 1 and 2 will give you a better shock (for less than the BMW one) and it will also be rebuildable. The SHOWA are not rebuildable, although I have heard that some shop can do it....

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
John (Montreal, CANADA)
K1200RS (2002 IceBlue/Red - 96,000 miles)
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old Jul 26th, 2012, 3:38 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrbill812
I did notice the BMW emblem on the shock after I took the pic. I thought that was kinda strange for a Japanese company

So how does one tell that it is time to replace these if they aren't leaking and from my point of view, coming from a bike with no suspension (suzuki sv650) the ride is pretty awesome?

and not to sound stupid, what is a sport shock?

thanks,
mrbill

BMW has many suppliers for many components (incuding SHOWA). The brakes calipers show a BMW logo, but are in fact BREMBO components. They will often have their BMW emblem on the component in their arrangement with the supplier.

The SPORT-SHOCK was a factory delivered option (only after 2001 I beleive) - it has a different part number and can easily be spotted by a YELLOW spring (instead of white). Some owners loved the ride of the sport-shock, some taught it was bit too harsh.

If I was you, I would start by using the preload adjuster (black round handle on the LEFT side, abobe muffler) and crank it above the middle mark if you ride 2 up or if you weight is above 170 lbs.

Also, the rebound adjustement can be fine-tuned: a small black knob at the bottom of the shock. Max number of turns from full out to full in should be 4 turns. Try at 2 turn OUT from Full IN (half way). Then try about 1/2 turn on each side (IN or OUT). The more fully IN you are, the more sport the ride will be. Completely OUT (conter-clockwise) will be much like an old Cadillac with no damping.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
John (Montreal, CANADA)
K1200RS (2002 IceBlue/Red - 96,000 miles)
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old Jul 26th, 2012, 8:50 pm
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There may not be enough oil in the preload adjuster. Looks like quite a few were so afflicted, like mine.

Put the bike on centerstand and release all the preload, then start turning it in. If there is no pressure on the knob for quite a ways, in my case almost to the middle mark, then you may want to refill the preloader. Not hard to do, there is even instructions posted somewhere, I can't dig them from here but if I recall, just a matter of removing the banjo at the adjuster then adding hydraulic fluid.

I never did, bought some Ohlins instead to replace that oversprung underdampened pogo.

Benelli 50cc at 14
Yamaha RD 200 at 16
Yamaha RD 350 at 17
Honda CB 750 F at 18
Honda V45 Sabre at 24
BMW K100RS at 27
BMW R100GS at 34
BMW K1200RS at 53
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old Jul 27th, 2012, 8:57 am Thread Starter
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Thanks for the info, I'll mess with the adjustment knob this weekend, as I am more then 170 lbs! I'm still not clear as to when these need replaced, but I'll report back what I find after adjusting.

Bill

Quote:
Originally Posted by H96669
There may not be enough oil in the preload adjuster. Looks like quite a few were so afflicted, like mine.

Put the bike on centerstand and release all the preload, then start turning it in. If there is no pressure on the knob for quite a ways, in my case almost to the middle mark, then you may want to refill the preloader. Not hard to do, there is even instructions posted somewhere, I can't dig them from here but if I recall, just a matter of removing the banjo at the adjuster then adding hydraulic fluid.

I never did, bought some Ohlins instead to replace that oversprung underdampened pogo.
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old Jul 27th, 2012, 11:52 pm
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If you have 30,000 miles or more on the shocks, you should really consider replacing them. Best with either the Wilbers or Ohlins.
Also, on the existing rear one there's a triangular knob that adjusts the rebound. If you experience pogo-effects that cannot be eliminated by adjusting that knob, you're shock is shot.
As mentioned, the original ones may be rebuilt if you can find a good suspension shop. Cost, though, to convert the shock to a rebuildable one is pretty much the same cost as a new OEM shock.



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