humming solenoid noise when stopped and brakes applied - K-Bikes.com - Excellence in Motion
 
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old Aug 14th, 2012, 11:52 am Thread Starter
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humming solenoid noise when stopped and brakes applied

HI guys, on my 2002 K1200rs, I'm aware of the solenoid assisted braking system, and it may be my imagination but it seems the noise has gotten louder (humming) the best I can explain it, after I got the ABS serviced when I'm sitting at a stop light and have the brakes engaged. I don't have any dummy lights on and the brakes are working fine, just wondered if this is a "warning" sound or just another one of the unique sounds my K1200rs puts out?

thanks,
Bill
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old Aug 14th, 2012, 1:18 pm
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I think the ABS is feeling better, happily humming away.

You should know that there are two motors for the servos, applying the front brakes turns both of them on. Using the rear and only one motor is running. So I have taken up the habit of using my rear brake only as a hill/stop holder. Energy conservation/motor conservation etc etc......And as little brake as possible to hold the bike, the more you push the more the motors/pump work.

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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old Aug 14th, 2012, 2:18 pm Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by H96669
I think the ABS is feeling better, happily humming away.

You should know that there are two motors for the servos, applying the front brakes turns both of them on. Using the rear and only one motor is running. So I have taken up the habit of using my rear brake only as a hill/stop holder. Energy conservation/motor conservation etc etc......And as little brake as possible to hold the bike, the more you push the more the motors/pump work.

Thanks for reminding me that they are servo's not solenoids! Good point on the foot brake, and that is normally how I stay stopped also due to my vertical challenged issue!

So not to change the thread or idea, but with my old training for riding a motorcycle always telling myself (Brake,Brake) ie.. hand and foot, obviously with this system I don't need to do that and if I want rear brake only then hit the foot brake, but do I hurt the servos by doing my old "brake brake" method of stopping?
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old Aug 14th, 2012, 7:34 pm
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They all do that . I can play a tune by modulating front and rear brakes.

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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old Aug 14th, 2012, 9:50 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrbill812
Thanks for reminding me that they are servo's not solenoids! Good point on the foot brake, and that is normally how I stay stopped also due to my vertical challenged issue!

So not to change the thread or idea, but with my old training for riding a motorcycle always telling myself (Brake,Brake) ie.. hand and foot, obviously with this system I don't need to do that and if I want rear brake only then hit the foot brake, but do I hurt the servos by doing my old "brake brake" method of stopping?
I don't think you'd hurt the servos using both brakes. But doing so overrides the "proportioning" and will apply the rear brake more than it should for safe control of the bike under braking. Believe me you may not like how the bike reacts under emergency braking if you use that pedal altogether with the lever.

You can sort of test that by hitting the rear only hard at speed.

Practice practice....but don't overdo it, let them brakes cool off between practices,and maybe the modulator also.

Interesting what I just dug up yesterday, we just got the brake pressure tests for the GS911s, to do them they want the modulator "cold" as if implying that a hot modulator may not pressurise as much. Well not just implying, that's what the procedure says. Does make some sense but....I'll have to think on that one a little more.

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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old Aug 14th, 2012, 10:46 pm
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Okay, not real important, but just for giggles ...
I found myself on a less-than-optimal dirt road once that had be given as the only route to some camp grounds. Said road was well-graded, so it shouldn't be an issue. Turns out after the road (about a half-mile long, downhill) had been graded, it had rained the weekend before I got there. Lightly rutted and very uneven. With a GS or dual-sport, this would have been a no-brainer (especially with an ABS off switch). I learned real quickly that the ABS wasn't my friend at all.
Could. Not. Stop.
Going up was fine. Second trip down, though, went different. Light on the front brake lever, and lock (sorta) the rear. ABS only on the rear tire. Came to a stop, albeit a bit jerky. Having the rear brake under separate control worked for me, anyway. As luck would have it, though, I ended up finding a better path in and out. Completely flat until you hit pavement.



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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old Aug 15th, 2012, 8:34 am
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I think you have to crawl down on wet gravel....less then 5 MPH??? And then the ABS won't engage. Careful in my driveway or many of them gravel roads I ride.

Yep....a light touch on them brakes and use the rear.

Benelli 50cc at 14
Yamaha RD 200 at 16
Yamaha RD 350 at 17
Honda CB 750 F at 18
Honda V45 Sabre at 24
BMW K100RS at 27
BMW R100GS at 34
BMW K1200RS at 53
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old Aug 15th, 2012, 4:07 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Razel
Okay, not real important, but just for giggles ...
I found myself on a less-than-optimal dirt road once that had be given as the only route to some camp grounds. Said road was well-graded, so it shouldn't be an issue. Turns out after the road (about a half-mile long, downhill) had been graded, it had rained the weekend before I got there. Lightly rutted and very uneven. With a GS or dual-sport, this would have been a no-brainer (especially with an ABS off switch). I learned real quickly that the ABS wasn't my friend at all.
Could. Not. Stop.
Going up was fine. Second trip down, though, went different. Light on the front brake lever, and lock (sorta) the rear. ABS only on the rear tire. Came to a stop, albeit a bit jerky. Having the rear brake under separate control worked for me, anyway. As luck would have it, though, I ended up finding a better path in and out. Completely flat until you hit pavement.
I posted about this once after a similar experience. I was riding slow and locked up the rear. The damn ABS was pulsing away and I just was not stopping with full front and rear brake as I know I could have without the ABS thumping away. It was no giggle.

That led me to suspect the ABS is not that clever doing its thing at slower speeds, because it seemed to take forever in distance terms to give me back my brakes after the wheel unlocked. I thought the system would be ok for a high speed stop with a greater stopping distance needed, but not below 20-30 mph when it seemed to want the same number of wheel pulses (as at 70) to come off after releasing the pedal.

That was when I discovered the GS's have an ABS 'off' switch.



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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old Aug 15th, 2012, 8:36 pm
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The GS's ABS switch...I have been wondering how they do it, most of their system is pretty well the same as ours.Don't know if it could be possible installing one on our bikes for the gravel riders. Would have to prevent the pullaway test from completing, then according to the fault lights troubleshooting chart, the ABS light would flash at 1 Hz and the servos should still work.

I think that's how BMW may do it on the GSs, there is a procedure to switch off the ABS, can't be done on the fly, bike has to be stopped and maybe even cycle the ignition with ABS switch off.

Benelli 50cc at 14
Yamaha RD 200 at 16
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Honda CB 750 F at 18
Honda V45 Sabre at 24
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