Originally Posted by nosna85
Ok... I bought my k1200rs this summer and have put maybe 6500 miles on it... The bike has about 42,000 total. On my way home last night from a 1200 mile trip my cruise started to intermittently cut out. I could sometimes get it to start working if i shut the cruise off for a minute or so... Other times i had to shut the bike off so it would . Now this morning i had to drive across town and my ABs and triangle warning light started to do a dance back and forth while driving. Shut the bike off and it went away for a mile or so...then same thing. Stopped for an hour, when i started, worked fine no problem for ten miles. Stopforped to put a piece if mail in a blue box, shut the bike off...this time when i started going it flashed only the brake warning light and i had no servo assist ie no brakes at all. I shut it off, back on, drive a mile home no problem. K checked the brake fluid level, its at the min. Mark... I also thought i heard my back brake squeek a bit... Thoughts if its a battery issue in part with a need for rear pads as well?? Thank you fur any help.
You have already received good info about the rapid brake pad wear for the REAR that may cause the fluid to go low. NOT as much a problem for the FRONT as the pads will last a long time (thus the fluid level will go down slowly).
With your 2002 model equipped with IABS (Integral-ABS), the fluid level at the handlebar will NOT go down with brake pad wear. Normally the only fluid level to check is the 2 sections reservoir on the right, below seat, attached to black tube sub-frame. This reservoir is monitored by the IABS system - it contains 2 small float sensors. If the fluid at the handlebar goes down, you have a serious hose or master-cylinder seal leak.
This container is split in 2 sections, more inside is the FRONT, more outside is the REAR, as documented in the attached picture. If you are in doubt, look for a small black hose, starting from bottom of the container, that goes down to the REAR brake master-cylinder - that is your clue which is the rear.
Black plastic cap are a bit fragile - they rotate while the attached hose will stay fixed. Need a 19 mm wrench. Do not overthighten when you replace Caps as you will damage the thin flat rubber gasket that goes between cap and container.
ONLY FILL WITH DOT-4 between MAX and MIN. The best, if you can, is to fill according to brake pads wear for matching side (front or rear). MAX level is used only when pads are brand new - maximum brake pad thickness will push the caliper piston inward and bring the level up. As the pads wear, the level goes down a bit.
If you still have a problem after fluid check, a diagnostic is possible if you watch carefully the speed for both warnings light (slow or fast flashing - or OFF):
1) After Ignition ON (do NOT touch the brakes)
2) About 5 to 7 sec after ignition ON (ABS self check completed)
3) After you start moving above 5 mph (ABS wheel sensor check completed)