Clutch release almost immediate k1200 GT 2003 - K-Bikes.com - Excellence in Motion
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old Aug 26th, 2012, 7:32 pm Thread Starter
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Clutch release almost immediate k1200 GT 2003

My son in law just got a k1200 GT 2003 that releases the clutch in the 1/4 of travel or earlier and feels a little "spongy"? . (you press it all the way and then as you start letting go it engages) The shifts are extremely smooth (just feel a click when you shift ) including first (of course when you preload and do the right thing. )
My 2004 GT releases 1/2 or later and feels you need to do more pressure on clutch lever to press is it back.
His bike has 70k miles but had the clutch replaced at 55 so I guess that should be ok.
He bleed the clutch fluid today as per manual, but I did not ride it before this so dont know if some air could have been sucked? he did use a speed bleeder

Any suggestions

Thanks!

Last edited by mayojuaf; Aug 26th, 2012 at 7:53 pm.
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old Aug 26th, 2012, 9:21 pm
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Clutch Issue

If the clutch lever has to be pulled in totally to disengage the clutch, there is either some air in the lines, or the master cylinder or slave cylinder is failing. If the slave cylinder was replaced when the clutch was replaced it should be OK. If it is the master cylinder (or even the slave) "pumping" the lever a few times will usually increase the clutch response. Having bled the system prior to identifying the problem however I suggest you try another bleed to get rid of possible air. I assume you are using DOT 3 or 4 brake fluid.
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old Aug 27th, 2012, 4:04 am
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These master cylinders can get air trapped in them that does not always come out at the normal bleed point.

You have to do a 'manual' bleed by cracking open the banjo at the MC a little, hold something underneath to catch fluid and watch paintwork! Slowly squeeze the clutch lever to get fluid out and hold it in, close the banjo, release clutch lever and top up fluid in the reservoir.



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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old Aug 27th, 2012, 6:04 am Thread Starter
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Thanks for the responses.
yes I used DOT 4 , so we are good there.

In reference to voxmagna suggestion, I should open the master cylinder a little (unscrew the 4 screws and pop it up a little) and then press slowly the lever watching not to spill fluid on the bike, and before releasing the handle tighten the MC cover back again?
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old Aug 27th, 2012, 9:28 am
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NO NO!!

The master cyl. cover is just that. It plays no part in the hydraulics and air in the lines or the MC piston.

I am talking about the banjo on the clutch hose which fastens to the side of the MC and is similar to that on the brake side.



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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old Aug 28th, 2012, 5:10 am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by voxmagna
NO NO!!

The master cyl. cover is just that. It plays no part in the hydraulics and air in the lines or the MC piston.

I am talking about the banjo on the clutch hose which fastens to the side of the MC and is similar to that on the brake side.
My Dear Chap
Maybe you are old enough to remember Vic Willoughbys TECHITALK Motorcycle Monthly UK 60,s? So you must tell people what a Banjo is)
I recently came upon a YOUTUBE vid of a man replacing cam chain tensioner
he called every screw a bolt

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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old Aug 28th, 2012, 5:32 am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by voxmagna
NO NO!!

The master cyl. cover is just that. It plays no part in the hydraulics and air in the lines or the MC piston.

I am talking about the banjo on the clutch hose which fastens to the side of the MC and is similar to that on the brake side.
Vox, the cover still needs to be removed anyway so the fluid level can be monitored as it drops. If the cover is left screwed down tight the rubber diaphram inside twists itself inside out as it is sucked down. Trust me, and don't ask me how I know about this one BTW Mayo, the same procedure is used if you have an airlock in the front brake master cylinder.
Have you had a good look at the clutch slave to be sure it's not weeping as you have not indicated whether or not it was replaced with the clutch job. With so few miles after the repair, and IF the slave was replaced I would also suggest it would be an air lock. However if it is still the oem slave I would be looking at replacing that pretty quickly as it has the potential to fail and toast up you new clutch. They are relatively cheap - less than a hundred notes from Beemer Boneyard from memory although a bit of a PITA to install

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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old Aug 28th, 2012, 6:58 am Thread Starter
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guys, thank you so much for all the suggestions. I will try many of them this weekend (the easy ones first) and will let you know if i was lucky
by the way, yes i struggled a little to find what a banjo is. thanks to goggle, i think i know but if anyone has a picture of the gizmo, i can make sure i dont screw up ( idiomatic expression and not the metal thingy)
also, i understand the previous owner did change the slave cylinder but how can i see if it is leaking?

Last edited by mayojuaf; Aug 28th, 2012 at 7:06 am.
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old Aug 28th, 2012, 2:53 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mayojuaf
guys, thank you so much for all the suggestions. I will try many of them this weekend (the easy ones first) and will let you know if i was lucky
by the way, yes i struggled a little to find what a banjo is. thanks to goggle, i think i know but if anyone has a picture of the gizmo, i can make sure i dont screw up ( idiomatic expression and not the metal thingy)
also, i understand the previous owner did change the slave cylinder but how can i see if it is leaking?
Stick your head under the bike with a torch and peer up between the back of the gearbox and the black frame cross member. Put the bike on the side stand and in gear. If you follow the clutch hose you will see it attach to and from the slave, then make its way to the bleed point on the R/H side of the frame below the seat. The area around the slave should be dry, or at worst have an accumulation of road grime. Clean it thoroughly with an alloy friendly degreaser and then keep an eye on it. At the same time have a look for weeping at the out put shaft to the final drive and make sure the rubber boot is still in place and this area is dry as well. Both items to check are very close to one another. Check out Clymer for details although I'm sure someone will post a pic of what it should NOT look like

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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old Sep 1st, 2012, 3:57 pm Thread Starter
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thank you all for the input. i did bleed the clutch again. this time i pressed the clutch level slowly a couple of times until i saw steady fluid coming from the drain after what i decided the last press i did take the speed bleeder out and then releasesd the level to insure that if the bleeder was not working correctly, i will not suck any air back in the system. i also tapped the famous banjo with the handle of a screw driver to insure there was no air trap there.

that was it! now it works great just as my other gt.
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