Clunk sound by drive shaft - K-Bikes.com - Excellence in Motion
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old Sep 23rd, 2012, 11:38 am Thread Starter
Noob
 
BMW-Mike's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Riverside, CA, USA
Posts: 17
Clunk sound by drive shaft

Purchased 2003 K1200GT with 8K on it about 6 mos ago, put on 4K since then.
Did the Iron Butt on it, great ride.

I changed the air filter, oil and oil filter. The previous owner or dealer must have tightened the oil filter way too tight as I had to rip the oil filter apart in order to take it out, not an easy task. I mentioned this as the bike sat for about two weeks.

Here's my concern, after completing the oil change, I let the bike warm up and while letting the clutch out in first gear, I hear a racheting/clunking sound coming from the drive shaft. Is this because the bike sat too long or something to be concerned about? About a month ago, while on a 200 mile ride, I had stopped by the road side and when I started to take off I heard the racheting/cluncking sound for the first time.

Any ideas

Honda S90 - 16
Kawasaki 175
BSA GoldStar
Honda 550
Kawasaki Vulcan
Harley Wide Glide
Harley Electric Glide Classic
Harley Night Train-Current
BMW K1200GT-Current
my wife said STOP!!!
BMW-Mike is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old Sep 23rd, 2012, 3:27 pm
Senior Member
 
erniejen's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: San Diego, Ca, USA
Posts: 146
Final Drive Noise

Your description sounds similar to mine just before the U-joint let go and jammed the drive shaft at freway speed; major repair. I would suggest having your shop review for excess movement/wear in the joint area. Good luck.
EJ
erniejen is offline  
post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old Sep 23rd, 2012, 10:55 pm
Veteran
 
H96669's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Burton, British Columbia, Canada
Posts: 1,782
Yes have a good look at the driveshaft. Corrosion will built up between the bearing caps and yoke part, that in turns tightens up the needle bearings against the cross. The results will be more friction....heat, then the grease will run out and the U-joint will fail.

Yep...I have pics of that, not many have taken one of them apart to investigate. I don't trust them BMW driveshafts too much anymore, had to replace a few of them. Last one I had rebuilt by a specialist here in Canada, Heavy Duty greasable and replacable U-joints.

Takes about 1/2 hour to remove the rear drive and then the driveshaft without removing the swingarm.

Benelli 50cc at 14
Yamaha RD 200 at 16
Yamaha RD 350 at 17
Honda CB 750 F at 18
Honda V45 Sabre at 24
BMW K100RS at 27
BMW R100GS at 34
BMW K1200RS at 53
H96669 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old Sep 24th, 2012, 8:06 am
Addict
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: , , UK
Posts: 3,750
H, have you got any manufacturer part information for the greasable/replaceable joints they used?

When I looked into doing this on a car shaft some years ago, I drew a blank because the joints with replaceable needle roller bearings were larger and boring out the 'eyes' would have made the shaft a lot weaker.



Never pay again for live sex! | Hot girls doing naughty stuff for free! | Chat for free!
voxmagna is offline  
post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old Sep 24th, 2012, 9:30 am
Veteran
 
H96669's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Burton, British Columbia, Canada
Posts: 1,782
Quote:
Originally Posted by voxmagna
H, have you got any manufacturer part information for the greasable/replaceable joints they used?

When I looked into doing this on a car shaft some years ago, I drew a blank because the joints with replaceable needle roller bearings were larger and boring out the 'eyes' would have made the shaft a lot weaker.
Sorry Vox no markings on the U-joints and I sure looked.But that's not unusual, most of the automotive ones I have seen don't have any markings either.That makes differentiating the good from the bad harder, lots of cheap Chinee out there and even them are getting good at faking the packaging.

Pretty crafty that Bruno, he finds enough room to cut grooves in the yoke and install a circlip and that without adding any more metal to the yokes.

And that reminds me that I should have measured the lenght/cap width of the new U-joints and compare to OEMs, maybe his are a little shorter and that is why he can get away with circlips and no extra metal on the yokes. Will do next winter and take pics of that repair, last time I just wanted to install and ride.

Looks like some of the GS guys are getting theirs done in the USA also and as far as I know BMW has the same U-joints all across the models/years going way back to the introduction of the Paralevers in 1988.

That's just when they started having driveshafts problems, the introduction of the Paralevers and they do fail early, my 90 GS only had 20,000 Kms or so when the front disintegrated and smashed into the swingarm leaving me stranded in the boonies.

Benelli 50cc at 14
Yamaha RD 200 at 16
Yamaha RD 350 at 17
Honda CB 750 F at 18
Honda V45 Sabre at 24
BMW K100RS at 27
BMW R100GS at 34
BMW K1200RS at 53
H96669 is offline  
post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old Sep 24th, 2012, 8:59 pm
Enthusiast
 
Y2K12RS's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Mendocino, CA, USA
Posts: 283
Been there Done That....on my 2003 K1100RS, essentially the same drive shaft. It did the ratchety thing and cut loose not too many miles later. I have all the photos of a cup of metal filings, totalled U-Joint, etc somewhere on an old computer file from back then. Get that thing pulled out and replaced. No fixing it now.

.

Jim Douglas
'00 K1200RS >135,000 mi, '09 K1300S sold @ 22,232 mi
'93 K1100RS traded up @ 78,000 mi, '85 K100RS sold @44,000 mi, Kawi 650 track bike - sold
http://www.seagullbb.com/
Y2K12RS is offline  
post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old Sep 25th, 2012, 10:02 am
Veteran
 
H96669's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Burton, British Columbia, Canada
Posts: 1,782
Quote:
Originally Posted by Y2K12RS
Been there Done That....on my 2003 K1100RS, essentially the same drive shaft. It did the ratchety thing and cut loose not too many miles later. I have all the photos of a cup of metal filings, totalled U-Joint, etc somewhere on an old computer file from back then. Get that thing pulled out and replaced. No fixing it now.

.
Them RSs are too smooth, had to go close to 200 Km/hr before I noticed the vibrations. Only had to go 80-100 on the old GS before I knew something may be amiss in the driveline.

Benelli 50cc at 14
Yamaha RD 200 at 16
Yamaha RD 350 at 17
Honda CB 750 F at 18
Honda V45 Sabre at 24
BMW K100RS at 27
BMW R100GS at 34
BMW K1200RS at 53
H96669 is offline  
post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old Sep 30th, 2012, 11:18 pm Thread Starter
Noob
 
BMW-Mike's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Riverside, CA, USA
Posts: 17
Thank to all

BMW will inspect for about $100...if that is the problem then $750 for the driveshaft and $200 for labor. With that in mind I took the bike out for a test drive and no sound what so ever. I drove through the neighborhood for the purpose of the stop and go which I thought would be a good test on the drive shaft. Not a sound or any clunking at all.

Was planning on taking to work, about 30 miles round trip freeway driving. But after reading the replys, I will take it in for an inspection.

Again, Thanks to all for the warnings.

Honda S90 - 16
Kawasaki 175
BSA GoldStar
Honda 550
Kawasaki Vulcan
Harley Wide Glide
Harley Electric Glide Classic
Harley Night Train-Current
BMW K1200GT-Current
my wife said STOP!!!
BMW-Mike is offline  
post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old Dec 9th, 2012, 6:30 pm
Enthusiast
 
Y2K12RS's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Mendocino, CA, USA
Posts: 283
So, Mike, How did it all turn out? Did your shop find anything?
One of the reasons I was as emphatic as I was is because when mine went, I had unknowingly let it flop around in there for far too long. This resulted in requiring a replacement Final Drive along with the drive shaft front and rear sections. I got all low mileage used stuff and, as I recall from back in 1999....I spent about $700 on parts and did all the labor myself. I always wondered if the bike had been assembled at the factory with the drive shaft out of balance causing the premature U-Joint failure. Once I got it all back together, it seemed to be soooo much smoother, like brand new.

Jim Douglas
'00 K1200RS >135,000 mi, '09 K1300S sold @ 22,232 mi
'93 K1100RS traded up @ 78,000 mi, '85 K100RS sold @44,000 mi, Kawi 650 track bike - sold
http://www.seagullbb.com/
Y2K12RS is offline  
post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old Apr 19th, 2013, 12:55 am Thread Starter
Noob
 
BMW-Mike's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Riverside, CA, USA
Posts: 17
Follow up on drive shaft

I took the bike in for two items; sound toward rear of bike and cruise control not staying on. They replaced the cruise control (took 3 weeks), but they didn't find anything wrong with the drive shaft. They took it on several test runs to check out the cruise control and they had no concerns about the bike at all. They said I had a good running bike.....
I keep an ear open for any sound but none what so ever.

Hope it stays that way.

Honda S90 - 16
Kawasaki 175
BSA GoldStar
Honda 550
Kawasaki Vulcan
Harley Wide Glide
Harley Electric Glide Classic
Harley Night Train-Current
BMW K1200GT-Current
my wife said STOP!!!
BMW-Mike is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the K-Bikes.com - Excellence in Motion forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Final Drive Oil Change 2006 K1200R Coastie Technical, Repair and Maintenance 24 Apr 6th, 2017 8:41 am
Absolutely the most detailed description of the K1200S I've come across... sinc K12/1300S 20 Jul 19th, 2014 9:04 am
Drive shaft went BANG! nickonoonoo Other K-Bikes Discussion 8 Feb 4th, 2010 9:29 pm
Sullivan County, NY 10-30-05 kevinC Ride Tales 4 Apr 27th, 2008 7:52 pm
Oil in rear boot: Drive or Tranni case seals?? voxmagna Technical, Repair and Maintenance 0 Sep 24th, 2006 5:55 am

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome