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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old Jan 23rd, 2006, 10:18 am Thread Starter
 
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Question Helpful Hints?.....

I have removed all my tupperware to put some add-ons on my bike. While I have it apart
I am changing the spark plugs, oil of course, air filter, etc... . Can anyone recommend? while I am at it, should I drain and refill the final drive, flush the coolant, and possibly flush the brake fluid?. I know you will say I am ANAL, but this bike has 6k on it, that's all.
Where's Wizard?, jump in here. Also, anybody know of a better $ than $53.95 for a K-N
air filter element??. Thanks.
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old Jan 23rd, 2006, 12:08 pm
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Coolant changes can be interesting, as the system is prone to acquiring air bubbles that have a process to remove (I don't know it).
Brakes? Read the process in the archives written by Gary, and have at least one person helping you...maybe two. Needs a special tool to bleed the ABS brain. Speed bleeders are vital if you're attempting this task solo.

Not much help, just some caveats...



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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old Jan 23rd, 2006, 1:36 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RedHawK12GT
I have removed all my tupperware to put some add-ons on my bike. While I have it apart
I am changing the spark plugs, oil of course, air filter, etc... . Can anyone recommend? while I am at it, should I drain and refill the final drive, flush the coolant, and possibly flush the brake fluid?. I know you will say I am ANAL, but this bike has 6k on it, that's all.
Where's Wizard?, jump in here. Also, anybody know of a better $ than $53.95 for a K-N
air filter element??. Thanks.

Unless you just really just love doing this stuff and spending the money, all you need to do right now is change the oil and check levels etc. on everything else.
If you are compelled to do more.... Stick with the stock air filter, the K&N will give no advantage is the collective wisdom (but really, wait until 12k).. Tell you what, wait till 12k for all the scheduled stuff, including checking the valves and brake bleeding, clutch (actually that's 24K) It'll come soon enough . Put the plastic on and go for a ride. If it's snowing, hook up the battery tender, admire the bike and go back in the house for a hot cocoa.
Sorry, not trying to be wise ass. Really. It just seems to come so soon to me as it is. 31k plus miles in 2.5 years I've had this bike.

BTW, you pinch the horizontal running connecting radiator hose (at about mid-way up on the front of the engine) while idling the engine to get the bubbles out of the system during the coolant refill. You'll hear it gurgling. Run for a moment and top off. You drain by popping off the at the bottom front of the engine. Don't forget the coolant reservoir.
Have fun.
Check out Pirate's site for some "How to" advise.
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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old Jan 23rd, 2006, 1:45 pm
 
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time for a 6k check up!!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by RedHawK12GT
I have removed all my tupperware to put some add-ons on my bike. While I have it apart
I am changing the spark plugs, oil of course, air filter, etc... . Can anyone recommend? while I am at it, should I drain and refill the final drive, flush the coolant, and possibly flush the brake fluid?. I know you will say I am ANAL, but this bike has 6k on it, that's all.
Where's Wizard?, jump in here. Also, anybody know of a better $ than $53.95 for a K-N
air filter element??. Thanks.
Here is a quick rundown of what needs to be accomplished from your list. Do you have the RS maintenance manual? It helps out and gives you decent guidelines of service intervals.

-If you are changing the plugs, then I am assuming you are putting in NGK Iridiums, might as well!
-There is no harm to change out the final drive/gear box oil. Next time you are at your BMW shop grab an extra bottle of gear oil (75/140 I think). It take about a quart to change out the final drive and gear box, combined. Oil is cheaper than my sound of mind.
-I don't see any reason to flush the coolant, unless you bike has been sitting around for a while (more than a year). I haven't heard much about the bubble problems, but if you bike is running well, then there is no reason for a coolant flush.
-I wouldn't flush the brake lines, not at 6k, you might want to inspect your rear brake pad, they tend to wear down every 6-8k. But if you really want to take on this endeavor, then there are decent outlines on how to accomplish this task on pirates site and in the archives.
-Run your bike over to the BMW shop to run a quick computer diagnostic, most will charge you a 1/2 hour service.

And $54 is probaly the best price for a K&N.

ONON-
Mark
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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old Jan 23rd, 2006, 2:51 pm Thread Starter
 
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Thanks.......

Quote:
Originally Posted by Pathogen7
Here is a quick rundown of what needs to be accomplished from your list. Do you have the RS maintenance manual? It helps out and gives you decent guidelines of service intervals.

-There is no harm to change out the final drive/gear box oil. Next time you are at your BMW shop grab an extra bottle of gear oil (75/140 I think). It take about a quart to change out the final drive and gear box, combined. Oil is cheaper than my sound of mind.

ONON-
Mark
Thanks to all. Mr. Wizzard, sorry I mispelled your name (Wizard) . I do have the repair/maintenance CD for the KRS (even though mine is a KGT). My buddy told me it is OK to switch to the synthetic at 6k for the final drive (not until 10k for the engine). True?.
Sounds like the K-N isn't worth the extra money. I can get a regular one for $23.50. Will not attempt coolant, and brake flush at this time. Mr. Anal / Mr. Safety. Horn and Piaa mount this week (finally). Oh, one other thing, while I have tupperware off, gonna change the headlight bulbs (going to store the other ones in hard bags for reserve) to the
"SilverStars", any input on these??. Thanks again guys/gals.
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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old Jan 23rd, 2006, 5:32 pm
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For boredom I Armoralled all the plastic under the tupperware. Or some such vinyl/rubber treatment, where i'm not sure it did any good, it couldnt hurt. It gave me the chance to inspect almost every part on the bike and check for loose bolts and such. By doing this I did find a rattle I heard sometimes.I checked all wire plug ins to be sure they were tight also.I checked all hoses, overflow,vent etc for kinks and routing. Also found a couple spaces to hide stuff. The 2 small tupperware pieces under the seat will hold a plug kit and a couple more air cartridges if you wrap them in a couple shop rags. Bike seemed to run better with all the hidden corners cleaned too, tho that might have been my imagination!
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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old Jan 23rd, 2006, 6:29 pm
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Maintenance

He I assume you have an after 2002 model RS/GT. Than you also have the Integral ABS. I was told by my Service Manager that you need an electronic adjustment on the brakes after the flush that they need to do. Prior to the Integral ABS there would be no problem flushing them in your own garage.

I do my own stunts
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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old Jan 23rd, 2006, 6:39 pm
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RedHawk,

If you've got all the tupperware off, instead of spending the scratch on a K&N and SilverStars, invest the cash in an HID for your low beam. It's a relatively painless upgrade but it'll take a bit of time and it will let you get to know your bike a bit more intimately (but make sure your significant other doesn't see - unelss you're into that kinda thing!)

Good luck!
alow

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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old Jan 24th, 2006, 1:46 pm
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RedHawk, remove the underbelly cover, check for oil leaks or coolant leaks, in fact any leaks anywhere in the usual places. If you're not changing fluids, at least check the levels. Clean everything so you can check easy next time. If any found don't fret, assess severity, contemplate, plan, warranty or budget and keep riding.



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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old Jan 24th, 2006, 3:55 pm
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While you have the plastic off. Get a piece of 3/8" flexible plastic conduit with 6-#14-16 wires installed and snake it around the left side of the engine so It runs from cowl to under seat for future farkles.
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