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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old Dec 17th, 2012, 1:33 am Thread Starter
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New confused owner

Hi everyone,

I just bought a 2003 K1200GT which I got a great deal on from a dealer here in Socal. Took it for it's first real ride and noticed that it wanted to overheat while at stop lights. I looked at the hose that goes between the radiators and it was flat when it was cold ( not enough coolant I am guessing). Something I realized is that I have no idea where to put in coolant, check the oil, add oil and turn on the piaa driving lights that are on the bike. Can anyone tell me of what I need to do to add coolant, check oil, add oil , replace air cleaner as well as any areas I need to be aware of both good and bad on these amazing bikes

Thank you,
Dave
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old Dec 17th, 2012, 5:51 am
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Originally Posted by worldspeaker
Hi everyone,

I just bought a 2003 K1200GT which I got a great deal on from a dealer here in Socal. Took it for it's first real ride and noticed that it wanted to overheat while at stop lights. I looked at the hose that goes between the radiators and it was flat when it was cold ( not enough coolant I am guessing). Something I realized is that I have no idea where to put in coolant, check the oil, add oil and turn on the piaa driving lights that are on the bike. Can anyone tell me of what I need to do to add coolant, check oil, add oil , replace air cleaner as well as any areas I need to be aware of both good and bad on these amazing bikes

Thank you,
Dave
Read the owner's manual.

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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old Dec 17th, 2012, 7:30 am
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Well....the owner's (Rider's) manual isn't too helpful if you have to add coolant to the radiators. As I think in this case....! They only mention checking the level in the expansion tank under the seat.

You can see the radiator cap on the left in front of the fairing, behind the left fork. Getting it out of there can be fun with the plastics in place but entirely possible.

Oil is a sight glass on the right of the engine, there is a hole in the belly pan there to sight through. Centerstand, bike warm and let it sit for 10 minutes or so before you assess the level. Filler plug is above that.

Don't know if all that is in there, but here is the BMW service manual in PDF, you'll need that for a start. Cheap and well indexed:

http://www.tradebit.com/filedetail.p...rcycle-service

"Rider's manual" and "Maintenance instructions" booklets, there is 2 of them and probably still available for a fee.....check there in the Max's parts fiche.

http://www.maxbmwmotorcycles.com/fiche/fiche.aspx

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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old Dec 17th, 2012, 8:57 am
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You got such a good deal from the dealer that you should also be able to take the bike back and question any problems or perceptions you think you may have. If you say a hose is squashed flat, then raise that with them. However, the K bikes and their 1200cc motors will get hot at stops but you must check that both electric fans are running as the gauge enters the start of the red zone (or lower)

In the first few weeks of owning a new to you bike, you should try putting questions to the dealer. Did you get any warranty?

Next you need to acquire information and read it. These bikes are quite complicated and often things are engineered differently to what you might first assume. Your bike has instruments including a temperature gauge and cockpit warning lights. You need to know what they mean (copy of riders manual).

The Clymer shop manual may be a bit of a heavyweight manual for you, but it does include all the main check and service items. It is easier to read than the BMW shop manual they put on CD.



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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old Dec 17th, 2012, 9:36 pm
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The Search function works well on this site. Also, pics along with questions. Guys here are very helpfull, but you must also show some initiative -not just " hey how do I do this".

Marin Phil
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old Dec 18th, 2012, 5:30 am
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Originally Posted by pmorritt
The Search function works well on this site. Also, pics along with questions. Guys here are very helpfull, but you must also show some initiative -not just " hey how do I do this".
+1

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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old Dec 19th, 2012, 10:17 am Thread Starter
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Thanks everyone, I have learned so much about my new bike in the last couple of days. One of the reasons I bought this bike was because of BMW people like yourselves. I am a marketing director for a company in the motorcycle industry and so I travel to motorcycle shops each day. I have always enjoyed going into BMW dealers because the people are so helpful, not just the staff, but customers that go just to hang out with other BMW people. The dealership did find the riders manual (which I just received). I may still need to add coolant but I guess the needle rising at stop lights is a quark of this bike. I have always been very "intune" with the Triumph I have and now just need to learn the idiosyncrasies of this bike too. Thank you again everyone, I am looking forward to being a part of this forum.
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old Dec 19th, 2012, 11:52 pm
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Did you figure out the Piaas?

If not, check for an "autoswitch"

With ignition on, hold down turn signal cancel switch for a second or 2.
If there is an "autoswitch" installed, the lights should turn on.
Hold the turn signal cancel switch down again for a second or 2 and they will go off.
Ususally, with an autoswitch, there will be an led installed somewhere on the dash/controls that will light up indicating that the lights are on/off.

dmilan
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old Feb 3rd, 2013, 1:32 pm
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Update? Solved?

Worldspeaker - did you get your coolant topped up and did that solve your issue? I ride in all kinds of temperatures from 32F to well over 100F. As voxmagna noted, your fans should come on just prior to the needle going into the red. Then the needle should go down a bit. How much was your needle moving? From where to where - approaching or even into the red, and were your fans (both) coming on at the appropriate time? Sure, my needle goes up when stopped, and runs in the area near the red when stopped and ambient temps are 100+F, but it NEVER goes into the red and then drops back down and fans go off once moving again. In December, you should not have had 'wanting to overheat' issues unless you are letting it sit at idle, no movement, for extended periods and the fans are not coming on. You should be able to let the bike sit running unattended nearly forever if your coolant is up to proper level and your fans are working properly.

Jim Douglas
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