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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old Dec 23rd, 2012, 4:18 pm Thread Starter
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revisiting water pump leakage

Merry Christmas guys and gals,

I have an '02 K-RS with 100,000km on the clock. Just parked the bike for the winter.

The belly pan is wet, both sides this time, from the front of the motor leaking from the water pump, if I recall correctly. I had the fix done many years ago, but now it is back with a vengeance. Any suggestions on how to permanently fix this mess, seeing as I have 4 months to tackle this project.

Thanks.
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old Dec 23rd, 2012, 4:28 pm Thread Starter
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thats timing cover, not water pump

Hi again,

Right. I did a search (thank you again Voxmagna!) and found out all I need to know.

It drives me nuts when the dealer says they all leak a little bit !!

I would really like it dry under there.

I will peruse the threads on this topic and see if it is a do-it-yourself project or not.

Thanks guys.
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old Dec 23rd, 2012, 6:48 pm
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You may be lucky and not fnd a bunch of corrosion around them 2 red seals if the pump. Too much of that and it may be Bye Bye pump. I think I was lucky but sure added a little extra sealant where there shouldn't be any.

Loctite 518....the best with the little bottle of accelerator/primer thing if you work in cold weather. Fastenal has it....Master Gasket Kit Loctite 518 #22423. Over $30.00.

Timing cover or pump? Could be both. Did the timing cover at first then later noticed the seep at the pump. Should have done both at the same time, much less work.

Benelli 50cc at 14
Yamaha RD 200 at 16
Yamaha RD 350 at 17
Honda CB 750 F at 18
Honda V45 Sabre at 24
BMW K100RS at 27
BMW R100GS at 34
BMW K1200RS at 53
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old Dec 26th, 2012, 3:28 am
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Fixing the leaking brick oil/water pump is indeed a diy job. A search in this or similar forums will give you details, as does the Haynes/Clymer manual.

A couple of pointers that will make life easier:

- When the water pump cover is off, unfasten the impeller at this time, as this is a hassel after the entire unit is dismounted.

- As there are no gaskets, all seals are based on silicone. The layer is very thin. Use blue silicone and smear a THIN layer (prevent silicone from being squeezed into the being when fastening).
- When mounting the pump, fasten until there is 1 mm gap. Allow the silicone to dry for a couple of hours. This way the silicone will not be squeezed away. Then tightening the bolts.
- Respect the specified torque.

- Mounting the pump is a two stage job.
- First mount the pump housing to the engine leaving the 1mm gap. Allow silicone to dry- fasten the screws.
- Remember to reinstall the oil pressure and water temp wires.
- Repeat for front cover.
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old Dec 27th, 2012, 11:00 pm Thread Starter
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Timing cover etc.

Thanks Pierre, thanks Kunet.

I will look into this further. It's the messiest it's been in a long time.
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old Dec 28th, 2012, 7:01 am
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Very difficult to see if the water pump. Means some time with head under the bike as it is running. Coolant, when hot will evaporate almost as soon as it comes out.

If you look at the parts fiche, you can see them O-rings, 2 of them one on the oil cooler flange and one on the pump itself. What happens is that there is just enough of a recess behind the pump cover for dirt to accumulate. In our cases also might mean road salts. Then that seps in at the O-ring seams and cause corrosion. Ugly what I found on my bike and looks like I am not the only one.

Benelli 50cc at 14
Yamaha RD 200 at 16
Yamaha RD 350 at 17
Honda CB 750 F at 18
Honda V45 Sabre at 24
BMW K100RS at 27
BMW R100GS at 34
BMW K1200RS at 53
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old Dec 29th, 2012, 5:49 am
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I found a bad case of corrosion on my water pump hose connection where I had noticed a small leak for some time. Fortunately, I was able to restore the profile with epoxy and it has not leaked at the hose point since.

Here is the possible corrosion explanation:

It is not salt that causes corrosion so much as coolant leaks or coolant exposed to air. Glycol based mixes are good at what they do providing they are kept trapped inside a sealed system. But if any kind of a leak occurs, glycol becomes extremely corrosive when exposed to air AND in contact with metals.

You often see this on the radiator fins where people have slopped coolant mix over the radiator when filling and not hosed it off. It is then not long before the fins corrode and crumble away, seriously reducing radiator efficiency.

When a dealer says 'They all leak a little' and do not appreciate how much damage leaking coolant can cause, it annoys me.



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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old Dec 29th, 2012, 12:46 pm Thread Starter
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Corrosion

Totally agree about the dealer comment being unacceptable, Derek.

I'm pretty sure it's the timing cover. I'm just wondering if it's worse when I ride in the cold; that is, greater expansion and contraction between a hot engine and a cold one. Never seen it this messy.
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old Dec 30th, 2012, 7:17 am
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I was thinking more about coolant leaks. But OIL leaks from the timing cover have been a perennial issue for many here and you read what I posted a while back.

Fortunately, you do not have to tear the whole bike apart to try and fix it, but whatever method you use you have to be extremely careful with the steps. I was not that happy with their design for the cover. Whoever thought of incorporating high presure oil galleries in the cover casting, then attempting to get a flush face seal to the block using silicone must have been out of their heads. If those face seals are not good, the timing compartment will flood with oil making cover leaks more likely.

Do not just follow the various posts and options to fix without first checking the face surfaces of your cover and the engine block are true (use micrometer blue). Pay particular attention to those areas INSIDE the cover that are face seals for high pressure oil. Whichever repair method you choose, the area should be cleaned oil free and the bike left standing for sufficient time that no oil is working back and all the sealing faces can be cleaned with degreaser and stay oil free, right up to the time you replace the cover.



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