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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old Apr 23rd, 2013, 9:29 am Thread Starter
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Won't start

Just got a 2004 K1200GT couple of months ago Love it! Thought I'd do a little self maintenance. Changed oil, filter, tranny fluid and final drive fluid. Also replaced plugs with correct Bosches. Put it back together and it ran just fine for the 5 minutes to move the bike. Came back next day and tried to start and, although it turned over fine, it just briefly sputtered and wouldn't catch; just cranked. Left it for a day and tried again. Same thing. I pulled one of the [new] plugs to see if they were wet with fuel (after cranking). Seemed dry. I checked the fuse to the fuel pump...OK. Anyone help me figure this out??
Thanks!
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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old Apr 23rd, 2013, 10:12 am
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Do you hear the fuel pump prime when you turn ignition on.?

Tim
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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old Apr 23rd, 2013, 2:36 pm Thread Starter
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I turned the key on, with and without kill switch engaged. All I heard was a 1-second whine similar to the sound made when the brake handle is squeezed.
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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old Apr 23rd, 2013, 3:45 pm
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As an old electrician and trouble shooter, look for something simple before tearing deep into the bike. Since you took off the plug wires, that may be a good place to start. What's the condition of your battery? Ck for spark then fuel, you should get if figured out.

Good luck,
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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old Apr 23rd, 2013, 6:58 pm Thread Starter
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I checked the [new] plugs and they got a good spark. How do I check spark plug wires. Continuity check? It seems to be starved for fuel. Each time I try to start after about 24 hours, it runs very briefly, but well, for a couple of seconds and then won't catch at all.
Thanks for the suggestions; keep 'em coming!
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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old Apr 24th, 2013, 4:00 am
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If you have sparks at ALL the plugs, then you do not need to look further at the wires.

You need to tell us if the sound you hear at switch on is a brake servo or the fuel pump priming. If the fuel pump does not run for a second at key on then you will have no fuel.

Did you mess with/unplug the fuel injector plugs when you were changing the spark plugs?

Have you been inside the fuel tank and replaced the fuel filter? You told us you have done some self maintenance. Do you know when the fuel filter was last changed?

Do your gas tank fuel lines have quick disconnects fitted and have you disconnected them and put them back the wrong way around?

Release the gas tank flap then key on and try a restart, just in case you have a blocked vent pipe.

I tend to agree with mrbill that often the last thing you were doing can have some bearing on a new problem that suddenly arises. Is there something in the short list of things you did which you have not mentioned?

If you can go no further then you will either have to let the shop fix it or learn to become a repairer and self maintainer like most of us. To do that you start by buying a Clymer manual and an inexpensive digital multimeter so you can learn your way around the parts on the bike, where they are and what they should do. These are no ordinary motorcycles like the one's they made in the 60's!

Perhaps in diving in to what should be a simple first time job, you mistakenly disturbed something. Without some knowledge and a roadmap of the bike, you could going up blind alleys.



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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old Apr 24th, 2013, 10:47 am Thread Starter
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Great suggestions. Responses:

Not knowing what the fuel pump should sound like, the sound certainly sounds like the brake servo sound and appears to come from the same place.

I have not removed or dealt with fuel tank. The previous owner didn't document much maintenance on the bike, so I don't know about fuel filter.

I have not [intentionally] touched the quick disconnects.

I'll try the tank flap idea (when it quits raining).

The only things done by me were drain and replace motor oil, ditto with tranny and final drive, and take out and replace spark plugs(no problems with current plugs, just wanted fresh set). Put fairing, etc. back on and the bike started fine. I moved it about 30' and turned off. Next day problems arose.

I have a Clymer manual and digital multimeter but have not had the confidence to attempt anything involving tank removal (I bought a new air filter before I realized it was under the tank). I may SLOWLY read the chapter on fuel systems and get braver. Fact is, I put about 1,00 trouble free miles on the bike after purchase in late '12 until this hiccup.

Again, thanks for your time and helpful suggestions.
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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old Apr 24th, 2013, 7:09 pm
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The power connector for the fuel pump is on the wires going under the bottom of the tank right side panel (just above the vent grill) close to the fuel hoses.

If you split the connector, put your voltmeter probes across the 2 pins on the connector half disappearing back into the loom you should see 12 volts for a second at key on. The electronic system only puts the power permanently on the pump when the motor is running as a safety feature.

If no volts at key on, look for a fuse, relay or wiring problem. If power but no pump noise, look for a broken wire to the pump inside the tank or a burned out pump. Check the fuse again (with your multimeter) as it might have blown due to a faulty pump.

Stick your ear on the gas tank flap and turn the key. If power is getting to the pump and it primes for a second you should hear it better.



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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old Apr 24th, 2013, 11:17 pm
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The safety interlock switches can also play a part here(Side stand, Clutch switch)

Tim
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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old Apr 25th, 2013, 4:05 am
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Good point, but I think the OP said the motor was cranking and the motor ran but died. It should not do that if the interlocks on clutch/gear shift and stand were active.



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