'03 K1200RS panel light 1.7 or 3 W? - K-Bikes.com - Excellence in Motion
 
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old Jul 24th, 2013, 2:29 pm Thread Starter
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'03 K1200RS panel light 1.7 or 3 W?

I've got the panel pulled out to swap out a blown lamp and... there are 15 3W lamps and one 1.7W lamp. Does anyone know where that one 1.7W lamp is on the panel? The drawing for this group isn't very clear on this.

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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old Jul 25th, 2013, 10:22 pm Thread Starter
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Short answer - the tech drawing has it backwards. There are 15 1.7W lamps and 1 3W lamp (ABS warning light).

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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old Jul 26th, 2013, 4:21 am
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I thought 47 watts was a bit high for the instrument lighting!

But you should also take a lamp out and check its value because I have this feeling they reduced the wattage of cockpit lamps to stop the glasses fogging over.



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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old Jul 27th, 2013, 10:21 pm Thread Starter
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All the bulbs I checked read 12V 1.7W. I suppose I could have gotten really motivated and checked them all. Instead, that'll wait until the LED's arrive sometime next week.

The "reduced wattage = reduced condensation" thing trips my bogometer. 1.7W vs. 3W? Perhaps in some real nit picky circumstance that might be correct, but for most folks? Nah. It's better to be sure the seals around the sockets are tight and, if chronic condensation is an issue, think about drying the gauges by generous use of a hair dryer or maybe a heat gun on a moderate setting.

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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old Jul 28th, 2013, 2:34 pm
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Have you noticed how badly oxidized all the wiring connections are on the instrument panel?

K12 front is a condensation trap. Rain water thrown up from road, no ventilation so it hangs around the back of the instrument cluster.



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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old Aug 6th, 2013, 9:43 pm Thread Starter
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Um, gee, now that you mention it... all of the the contacts were bright.

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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old Aug 10th, 2013, 8:41 am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RBEmerson
All the bulbs I checked read 12V 1.7W. I suppose I could have gotten really motivated and checked them all. Instead, that'll wait until the LED's arrive sometime next week.
Could you tell us what LED's you are ordering? I noticed some posts about superbrite LED's, but I couldn't tell what part # was being used.

Thanks in advance.

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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old Aug 11th, 2013, 9:15 pm Thread Starter
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I went with SuperBrightLEDs.com's Type 74 bulbs (74-xHP) in red (clocks and red idiot lights), green turn signals and neutral light, amber for the SET and "outta gas" lights, and blue for the high beam. The red LED's worked out as expected. The amber LED's - ditto. The green turn signals ditto, too. The green neutral LED? NAH!!! Long story short, the neutral switch and clutch interlock switch share some common wiring. The current drawn by a 12V 1.7W "peanut" bulb keeps the clutch interlock from lighting up the neutral light (not enough current to light the light). But! With the LED, its draw is so minimal that the neutral light is a slightly dimmed green when in gear, and bright green when the clutch is pulled in or the bike is in neutral. The fix is relatively simple: put a load resistor in place and all will be well. As yet, I haven't worked out what resistance to use. Also, the original blue 74 LED is much too bright. I've ordered a 74-x blue LED, which isn't as bright. I'm hoping for the best.

Otherwise, the overall result is about as expected. And SuperBrightLEDs.com is good people to work with.

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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old Aug 18th, 2013, 8:52 pm Thread Starter
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The dimmer blue LED worked a treat. Now all that's left is to ride this rascal a lot to see if the LED's hold up.

The load resistor for the neutral LED works out to about 330 ohms 2W across the leads to the LED (LED and resistor in parallel). Thinking about it a bit further, I opted to leave the original lamp in place - it's not on that much and now I don't have to hack up the wiring to add the resistor. Easy peasy.

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