Battery light and Oil light on solid - K-Bikes.com - Excellence in Motion
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old Oct 2nd, 2013, 7:59 pm Thread Starter
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Battery light and Oil light on solid

Newbie here. I have an issue with my recently purchased used 2002 1200rs.

For some unknown reason when I went to start the bike up, turned the key and the battery light and oil light came on solid and no other lights and won't turn over. Turn the key off take the key out and same two lights stay lite. I took fairing off checked battery connections everything is tight. I looked up and hoth lights are off, turn the key and she fires right off. Soooo turn it off and process started all over again. Aarrrgghh.

Please someone tell me where or what I should check.

Side note: I've started it up and shut it off and rode it with no issues 3 or 4 times but I don't want the 5th time to leave me stranded somewhere.

Relay?, loose connection?, bad ignition switch?

Thanks in advance for any input

Notice key in picture is removed and lights still on.
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Last edited by Trofy; Oct 2nd, 2013 at 9:04 pm.
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old Oct 2nd, 2013, 8:31 pm
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I now this may sound silly...
Is the sidestand up? I made this mistake myself when I bought mine a month ago.

Here is a quote from an old forum exchange.

Originally Posted by drizzyboy
If the side stand switch was bad...could you still get the bike to run by starting with the clutch in? This overides the switch when starting the bike in gear right? Think it may allow the bike to start even if the switch was bad? I assume it would die once the clutch was let out but I am just assuming.


Your close. Here is what happens with my '04 KRS. Sidestand down, in neutral- normal start. Sidestand down, in first gear and clutch pulled in- engine cranks, no start. Sidestand up, in first gear and clutch pulled in- engine starts normally. Apparently a combination of safety factors can stop the engine from starting. Of course, if you have the engine running and put the bike in gear with the sidestand down the engine shuts off.

Last edited by todcp; Oct 2nd, 2013 at 8:36 pm.
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old Oct 2nd, 2013, 8:36 pm Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by todcp
I now this may sound silly...
Is the sidestand up? I made this mistake myself when I bought mine a month ago.
Yep. It's on the center stand.
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old Oct 3rd, 2013, 1:50 am
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What's with your temperature gauge needle? Does it stay there or is it a random thing? Sounds like you got some earth issues to sort out

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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old Oct 3rd, 2013, 8:22 am
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First...Are there TWO ground wires connected to the battery? There has to be TWO.

First do a visual inspection of the wiring, Richard caught the gauge. Look at the ignition switch where the wiring comes out. And then remove the zipties along the steering neck/frame and going to the switches/ignition. Lots of them were too tight and that can break the casings or the wires. Yep mine was like that.

I see an accessory plug of some sort??? Yours or a PO???? I don't trust any POs with wiring jobs. Had to fix some overcooked spaghetti wiring a couple weeks ago on someone's bike. What a waste of a couple hours....

Ignition switch could be corroded, they are not too waterproof. I dribble the proper contact cleaner/electrical lube in mine once in a while. Looks like it is going somewhere....dribbles down from under the switch.

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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old Oct 3rd, 2013, 9:22 am Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by H96669
First...Are there TWO ground wires connected to the battery? There has to be TWO.

First do a visual inspection of the wiring, Richard caught the gauge. Look at the ignition switch where the wiring comes out. And then remove the zipties along the steering neck/frame and going to the switches/ignition. Lots of them were too tight and that can break the casings or the wires. Yep mine was like that.

I see an accessory plug of some sort??? Yours or a PO???? I don't trust any POs with wiring jobs. Had to fix some overcooked spaghetti wiring a couple weeks ago on someone's bike. What a waste of a couple hours....

Ignition switch could be corroded, they are not too waterproof. I dribble the proper contact cleaner/electrical lube in mine once in a while. Looks like it is going somewhere....dribbles down from under the switch.
Thanks for the ideas. Funny I didn't notice the temp gauge. I will do some more investigating today and let you know what I find out about the battery etc.

You said you see an accessory plug in the pic? I'm not seeing anything.
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old Oct 3rd, 2013, 10:12 am
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Multiple problems in different places with no identifiable common cause suggests some bad wiring in the loom. I can't see grounds being the only culprit. As others said, untape the loom in the steering head and follows wires through from the cockpit instruments. You should get a wiring diagram or Clymer shop manual.

Alternatively, take the tank off and front plastics so you can see more. Then concentrate on one wire e.g. the wire from the oil pressure sender (and temperature sensor?). Follow that through the loom and if you are lucky, you may find a spot of broken, burned, or shorted wires which include all the others. The oil pressure and temperature sensors are mounted close together and both those wires will run together along a similar route in the loom.

It is not a good idea to start running the bike until you have got those key engine warning lamps and gauge working. The bike engine is probably o.k, but it is best not taking the risk, especially on the oil light.



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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old Oct 3rd, 2013, 2:03 pm Thread Starter
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*****update****

After a couple of hours of pushing on things and moving wires around I figured out what the problem is . The ABS unit that sits left of the battery. The plastic connection that goes into the rear of the ABS unit. Either the whole unit is lose or that connection is lose.

Here's how it goes.
If I pull up on the plastic connection the two lights come on and the engine won't start. With the key on or off (don't think it matters) if I push down on that connection all the dash lights light up just like normal and she fires right up. I can turn it on and off no problem. With engine off I lift up on the connection, bang two lights come on and dead in the water, push down, everything hunky-dory.

Anyone know how to tighten up that connection? I did the hard part

Thanks again for your help in advance.
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old Oct 3rd, 2013, 2:47 pm
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There is a nylon slider on the right side of the ABS connector. Slide it right and that releases the connector. Reconnect then slide it left it tightens the connector against the ABS.

You may want to pull it right out and inspect the pins. They are pretty small and may be corroded if the connector was loose.

Just did my bike and put some juice on the connector to prevent corrosion.

What's that green/black/brown connector under the instruments??? That's the one I mentioned as a possible add-on. Heated grips??? Strangely enough my bike has a different connector for the heated grips....two connectors vs the usual single one.


Temp gauge: one wire coming from the sensor under the engine.Under the water/oil pump. That's a ground wire and the sensor resistance controls the gauge. Disconnect the wire at the sensor,ground it and the gauge pegs out like yours. So maybe the wire is broken somewhere and grounds. Or water/corrosion in the rubber boot covering the sensor/wire. That wire is hard to follow, goes behind the water/oil pump then up and runs through the Hall sensor cover and then into the electrical box. Had to fix the casing on mine, was all cracked and the wire could easily have broken or grounded. Metal clips holding it under the Hall sensor cover could do that. Not fun to fix...

Benelli 50cc at 14
Yamaha RD 200 at 16
Yamaha RD 350 at 17
Honda CB 750 F at 18
Honda V45 Sabre at 24
BMW K100RS at 27
BMW R100GS at 34
BMW K1200RS at 53
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old Oct 3rd, 2013, 3:39 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trofy
After a couple of hours of pushing on things and moving wires around I figured out what the problem is . The ABS unit that sits left of the battery. The plastic connection that goes into the rear of the ABS unit. Either the whole unit is lose or that connection is lose.

Here's how it goes.
If I pull up on the plastic connection the two lights come on and the engine won't start. With the key on or off (don't think it matters) if I push down on that connection all the dash lights light up just like normal and she fires right up. I can turn it on and off no problem. With engine off I lift up on the connection, bang two lights come on and dead in the water, push down, everything hunky-dory.

Anyone know how to tighten up that connection? I did the hard part

Thanks again for your help in advance.
Earlier, you said you have a 2002 model, so you must have the Integral-ABS UNIT (with assisted electrical booster).

Look at both attached pictures - this is a view from the TOP of the battery and the ABS connector. YELLO ARROW shows the normal distance with connector seated (1st picture) and not-seated (2nd picture). GREEN ARROW shows the locking plastic part that is either
(A) pulled out to remove connector from unit
(B) pushed in when the connector is fully seated to lock it in place.

I would also inspect if no pins have been damaged or bent (on that connector). NOT good that it ran half plugged like this - just saying...
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~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
John (Montreal, CANADA)
K1200RS (2002 IceBlue/Red - 96,000 miles)
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
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