Clutch bleeding problem on k12RS - K-Bikes.com - Excellence in Motion
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old Oct 3rd, 2013, 3:50 pm Thread Starter
Noob
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Richmond, Virginia, United States
Posts: 11
Clutch bleeding problem on k12RS

Hi all,

I am new here but have a serious problem. Last week I noticed a crack on the hydraulic line going from the clutch master cylinder to the slave cylinder. I replaced the line and have spent the last 2 days trying to bleed the line. I have tried everything from the traditional method of using a few squeezes and opening the bleed valve off the slave cylinder to using my mity-vac to create pressure. Nothing is working. I fear that I may have killed her... Anyone have any suggestions?
jokawood is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old Oct 3rd, 2013, 6:10 pm
Addict
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: , , UK
Posts: 3,750
I doubt you have broken anything. Was the clutch working before you spotted the crack?

Most likely you have got an air lock in the master cylinder piston chamber.

Close the bleeder at the slave. Put polythene over the front fender for protection. Crack open slightly the banjo on the master cyl. and with something underneath to catch the fluid, slowly pull in the clutch lever (fluid should come out). Hold in theclutch lever and tighten the banjo nut. Repeat a couple of times then blead at the slave bleeder.

Until you get fluid coming out at the master cyl. banjo you will get nowhere.

Keep some water handy to wash any spilt fluid. It kills paintwork!



Never pay again for live sex! | Hot girls doing naughty stuff for free! | Chat for free!
voxmagna is offline  
post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old Oct 4th, 2013, 3:02 pm Thread Starter
Noob
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Richmond, Virginia, United States
Posts: 11
Sounds like a good plan. Once I get done with my wife's to do list I will give it a try and report back.
jokawood is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old Oct 5th, 2013, 12:39 pm Thread Starter
Noob
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Richmond, Virginia, United States
Posts: 11
No luck. I tried to push fluid out of the master cylinder using the method you described and it still does not want to work. Nothing is coming out other than a little air. I backed the banjo bolt out all the way to see if any fluid was getting pushed out and nothing. created some suction on my finger, though. Looks like I may need a new master cylinder. Thoughts?
jokawood is offline  
post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old Oct 5th, 2013, 12:59 pm
Addict
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: , , UK
Posts: 3,750
Depends how far in you want to go. You could remove the MC to the work bench and dismantle it, looking for gunge or anything obvious wrong. Some really small holes to blow through with an air line too.

I forgot to mention there's a thumbwheel adjuster to set the lever in 3 positions. That should be on the number which sets the lever as far forwards as possible for big hands during bleeding. That then gives max stroke on the MC piston.

I bought a BMW repair kit for my brake side (I think both are the same). What comes is the piston and seals. It is cheaper to try and refurb than buy a complete MC. Refurb only works if the MC bore in the body is clean without scoring.

Depending on how competent you are, if you find the MC seals were bad, I would refurb the brake side afterwards.



Never pay again for live sex! | Hot girls doing naughty stuff for free! | Chat for free!
voxmagna is offline  
post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old Oct 5th, 2013, 8:17 pm Thread Starter
Noob
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Richmond, Virginia, United States
Posts: 11
Thanks. I am going to look for the refurbished kits now. I can get an ebay one for cheap and a refurbishment kit so to have something to do in the winter!
jokawood is offline  
post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old Oct 5th, 2013, 10:40 pm Thread Starter
Noob
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Richmond, Virginia, United States
Posts: 11
Man, you have been a great help. I found the rebuild kit on Beemer. Boneyard for 44 bucks. Is there a special method to pull the old guts out?
jokawood is offline  
post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old Oct 6th, 2013, 4:47 am
Addict
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: , , UK
Posts: 3,750
From memory, you do end up removing small parts and screws. Photograph or take notes as you remove parts so you put them back correct.

You adopt the same precautions and cleanliness as when dealing with hydraulic brake parts.

If you have not got one already, you should really buy the Clymer shop manual which will pay you back many times for the many expensive mistakes you do not make.



Never pay again for live sex! | Hot girls doing naughty stuff for free! | Chat for free!
voxmagna is offline  
post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old Oct 6th, 2013, 7:15 am Thread Starter
Noob
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Richmond, Virginia, United States
Posts: 11
I think I will get a manual. I took the cylinder apart last night and cleaned it. Did not see anything major wrong with it so I put it back together and put some fluid in it. I am getting a lot of air bubbles out of it now but I guess my question is does new parts in the cylinder make that much of a difference? I will bleed some more air out of it today to see where I get.
jokawood is offline  
post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old Oct 6th, 2013, 4:15 pm
Addict
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: , , UK
Posts: 3,750
You have to know what to look for.

You get a magnifying eyeglass on the wiping surfaces of both seals and look for scoring marks, roughness and wear on the seal lip edges. But not an exact science I'm afraid. A new seal is nice and springy and you feel some resistance as you push the assembly into the bore. An old seal can be floppy and lost its natural spring to seal agains the sides of the bore. Once you can get some back pressure the old seals might still work. But if they are old, why try to save a few cents?

You can see how small the piston assembly is and any fine scoring on the seals will stop them sealing. You should do the same thing on the bore too. As I said, if the bore is rough and scored the MC is trash. On the brake side you can hold in the front brake lever hard for 10 minutes and see if the lever gets back to the throttle grip. If it does those seals are failed. You cannot do the same leak past check on the MC clutch seal.

When the MC is working normall, you should see a litte 'squirt' of fluid coming from that small hole in the bottom which usually leaps up ready to drop over on to your fender paintwork.



Never pay again for live sex! | Hot girls doing naughty stuff for free! | Chat for free!

Last edited by voxmagna; Oct 6th, 2013 at 4:20 pm.
voxmagna is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the K-Bikes.com - Excellence in Motion forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Clutch Bleeding problem jtull01 K1200RS/GT (Classic) 8 Jun 18th, 2009 7:41 am
Clutch problem gmurtic K1200RS/GT (Classic) 15 Jul 4th, 2008 11:32 pm
bleeding my OBD II '99 k12rs brakes? marcleediker K1200RS/GT (Classic) 10 Nov 10th, 2007 11:25 am
Evoluzione clutch slave problem? logoguy K12/1300S 11 Jan 15th, 2006 11:00 am
Clutch questions 03 K12GT tyggyr K1200RS/GT (Classic) 12 Oct 18th, 2005 2:00 pm

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome