1998 KRS loss of power at 60mph - K-Bikes.com - Excellence in Motion
 
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old Oct 29th, 2013, 8:04 pm Thread Starter
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1998 KRS loss of power at 60mph

All,

I am saving a ton of money from the help I get from this site. Now I have another issue I would like to fix myself with some help. I have a 98 KRS with about 37k on it. When I am riding I can get very good power, until i reach 60 mph after riding for a few minutes. At that point I loose power as in acceleration power, but don't notice the bike loosing electrical power. The battery light does not come on and I have to down shift to keep up the speed or pull over to the side. Once I slow to about 40 mph I get my power back but I keep it at or below 60 mph. I have read stories of the battery failing, grounding issues, and replacing the fuel filter but wanted to get a direction first before going out and taking the bike apart. Thanks!
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old Oct 29th, 2013, 8:22 pm
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Yes do the fuel filter. Last one I replaced was pretty plugged up at less than the recommended milleage for replacement.

No loss of power then but I am sure it would have come. And not good for the expensive fuel pump so that got me making a fuel pressure gauge for a proper check. All good...!

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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old Oct 29th, 2013, 8:27 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jokawood
All,

I am saving a ton of money from the help I get from this site. Now I have another issue I would like to fix myself with some help. I have a 98 KRS with about 37k on it. When I am riding I can get very good power, until i reach 60 mph after riding for a few minutes. At that point I loose power as in acceleration power, but don't notice the bike loosing electrical power. The battery light does not come on and I have to down shift to keep up the speed or pull over to the side. Once I slow to about 40 mph I get my power back but I keep it at or below 60 mph. I have read stories of the battery failing, grounding issues, and replacing the fuel filter but wanted to get a direction first before going out and taking the bike apart. Thanks!
Glad you got help here in the past, but this one will not be easy without seeing or riding the bike.

First, I think you need to find out if it RPM related (try 3rd gear, 4th and 5th gear)
On the other side of the coin, it could be speed related (I doubt) or throttle percent opening related.

Are you sure it is not the clutch that is slipping ? Try this:
1) On a quiet road or highway, select 5th or 6th gear at approx 50 mph
2) turn the throttle to accelerate and watch the RPM compare to acceleration

IF RPM goes up fairly fast, but bike does not seem to pick much speed, the clutch is slipping.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
John (Montreal, CANADA)
K1200RS (2002 IceBlue/Red - 96,000 miles)
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old Oct 30th, 2013, 5:26 am
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Your bike is about the same year and mileage as mine so it should go like hell.

Sailor is right that there could be several things that could be causing your problem and you have to work through all of them methodically and have some experience working with gasoline engines.

Having the bike run right boils down to 3 essential things: Fuel supply, sparks and air. Get all 3 together at the right time and the bike should be running fine.

If your clutch was slipping, then I think you should have noticed that in top gear as the tacho and motor revs would swing up very quickly and not stay put with constant road speed.

Forget electrical power. Even if the battery was poor, the alternator has plenty of power to run the bike.

I would start looking at fuel delivery. When was the in-tank fuel filter last changed? If you don't know the history of the bike, then get the tank off, replace the fuel filter and clean the tank, hoses and pump inlet strainer. The fuel rail pressure test which checks the pump is simple to do if you have quick disconnects fitted and made your own gauge like some of us. If you are a noob on engine mechanics perhaps get a shop to check the fuel pump pressure first.

Sparks sound O.K up to 60 mph unless the bike is only firing on 2 cylinders and you don't know that (?). This maybe why Sailor made the point about having somebody familiar with the bike also ride it. If the motor is firing 4 cylinders, check on the stand in neutral that it will rev to 6K+ briefly. If it won't and runs out of rpm suddenly, it is more likely a spark problem than a fuel problem - maybe even ECU or Hall sensor.

As others said, you need eyes on and need to start looking and checking yourself to give more information.



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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old Oct 30th, 2013, 9:34 pm Thread Starter
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I will try the fuel filter, air filter, and spark plug and or wires. I got the bike this spring so don't know when they were last changed. Probably never ! I will let you guys know what it does for the bike. Good stuff here, always!
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old Oct 31st, 2013, 8:31 am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jokawood
I will try the fuel filter, air filter, and spark plug and or wires. I got the bike this spring so don't know when they were last changed. Probably never ! I will let you guys know what it does for the bike. Good stuff here, always!

If you want to do a full service, check with Euromotoelectrics for the parts required.

Spark plug wires maybe but you can check them with an Ohmmeter. Had to replace mine, two were showing defective. Carbon wires so you may have to twist/bend them as you check,I was getting on/off continuity readings on mine. But no power loss yet, the carbon core were showing continuity when the wires were bent in operating position.But no more readings when laid lenghtwise.

I have screened my air intake....no more bugs and assorted debris on top of my air filter to dirty it faster than it should be. I think I'll replace it soon,60,000 kms, no power loss.....!

Benelli 50cc at 14
Yamaha RD 200 at 16
Yamaha RD 350 at 17
Honda CB 750 F at 18
Honda V45 Sabre at 24
BMW K100RS at 27
BMW R100GS at 34
BMW K1200RS at 53
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old Oct 31st, 2013, 10:13 am
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In addition to above, it sounds like it could be and cracked hose somewhere in the fuel system. Just bad enuf to start sucking air when accelerating. On a bike of that vintage hoses deteriorate an crack. Wouldn't be a bad idea to look around and start replacing them.

Marin Phil
2013 K13S-Anniv ED
'06 K12GT Blue of course!_Sold-too many problems
'05 Ducati 999-My Italian Mistress_sold and missed
2004 K12 GT-Orient Blue-the new me.-Sold
about 30 before that but too old to remember them all..
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old Oct 31st, 2013, 12:01 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jokawood
I will try the fuel filter, air filter, and spark plug and or wires. I got the bike this spring so don't know when they were last changed. Probably never ! I will let you guys know what it does for the bike. Good stuff here, always!
When you do the FUEL-FILTER, pay attention to the hoses connecting it. There has been a few cases recently of damaged (cracked) hoses inside the tank. Behavior would be somewhat similar to what you have mentioned. Any drop of pressure on these EFI system will cause erratic behavior.

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~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
John (Montreal, CANADA)
K1200RS (2002 IceBlue/Red - 96,000 miles)
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old Nov 11th, 2013, 11:43 am Thread Starter
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Got a chance to get inside the bike this past week and looks like the previous owner(s) did a great dis-service... What I found was the original fuel and air filters. I changed them and went for a test ride and pure amazement at the power of the bike! All is good now!. The only problem I had was the gasket for the fuel pump was original, too, so after about 10 miles it started to piss all over the place. I looked on the other forums and found that a guy used a seal made of 4mm nitrile rubber did the trick of sealing things up, so I went to my local custom seal shop and had one made with the screw holes included. I also used gasoline resistant gasket sealant and new bolts from Lowe's and she seems to be tight. Thanks to everyone for their help!
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old Nov 11th, 2013, 11:51 am
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That was my mod. with drawings. Glad it worked for you. If you ever have a problem with the sender gasket on the side, you can fix that the same way. I wouldn't recommend using any kind of sealer. This is an Efi engine with very small holes in the fuel injection system. If the new flat rubber gasket didn't seal without goo, then you probably had the nut bushes pull through the ABS around the tank flange and were sitting a little proud, which you should have spotted and dealt with.

Now with that dis-service you need to start looking at other things that could cost you big time if you do nothing - Rubber brake hoses - get rid of them and fit a Goodridge or Spiegeler kit. Replace brake fluid at the same time or at least flush through with new now, to help protect the ABS pump.



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