Oil level drive shaft - K-Bikes.com - Excellence in Motion
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old Aug 9th, 2014, 10:22 am Thread Starter
Noob
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Sandvika, Akershus, Norway
Posts: 1
Oil level drive shaft

My Rider Manual for my K1200RS 2004 says how to check the engine oil level, but nothing about gear box or drive shaft oil level.
The gear box is completely full when I remove the inspection screw and the bike stands on a level surface.
But the drive shaft is not full. There are oil there, about 1 cm below the top when I remove the inspection screw.
Does anybody know what is the correct oil level?
tfaus is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old Aug 9th, 2014, 12:23 pm
Addict
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Montreal, QC, Canada
Posts: 507
Quote:
Originally Posted by tfaus
My Rider Manual for my K1200RS 2004 says how to check the engine oil level, but nothing about gear box or drive shaft oil level.
The gear box is completely full when I remove the inspection screw and the bike stands on a level surface.
But the drive shaft is not full. There are oil there, about 1 cm below the top when I remove the inspection screw.
Does anybody know what is the correct oil level?
Just to clarify, the rear part with oil is the REAR-DRIVE, it is not called the drive-shaft. The drive-shaft runs inside hollow swing-arm and is in a dry area (no oil touches it).

BACK to the QUESTION: With your K1200RS on the center-stand, on a level surface, the rear drive should be filled with oil until it touches the bottom of the tread of the top inspection plug. Basically, at that point, you are approx 1/4 to 3/8 inch from overflow. In fact, if you turn wheel before you put plug back it will have a tendency to go up and overflow (then will go back down).

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
John (Montreal, CANADA)
K1200RS (2002 IceBlue/Red - 96,000 miles)
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
sailor is offline  
post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old Aug 9th, 2014, 1:42 pm
Rookie
 
Motobiker's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Nottingham, , England
Posts: 33
Quote:
Originally Posted by sailor
Just to be amazingly pedantic... the rear part with oil is the REAR-DRIVE, it is not called the drive-shaft. The drive-shaft runs inside hollow swing-arm and is in a dry area (no oil touches it).
fixed that first part for you.

99 R1100GS
04 K1200GT

Have tent will travel. (Slovenia May 2014)

and very jolly it was too... next: The Schwartzwald in September. (whoop)
Motobiker is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old Aug 9th, 2014, 6:07 pm
Addict
 
pmorritt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: San Rafael, Ca, USA
Posts: 478
Just fill the final drive with 70/140 gear synthetic until it starts to dribble out.

Marin Phil
2013 K13S-Anniv ED
'06 K12GT Blue of course!_Sold-too many problems
'05 Ducati 999-My Italian Mistress_sold and missed
2004 K12 GT-Orient Blue-the new me.-Sold
about 30 before that but too old to remember them all..
pmorritt is offline  
post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old Aug 10th, 2014, 5:30 am
cws
Senior Member
 
cws's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Sydney, NSW, Australia
Posts: 137
Oil levels....

Quote:
Originally Posted by pmorritt
Just fill the final drive with 70/140 gear synthetic until it starts to dribble out.
As Sailor mentioned, you only fill to the start of the threaded section of the filler hole, any more is an overfill.
The transmission you can fill till it dribbles out, then wack the filler bolt back in.

From the service manual (Repair Manual K1200RS), which can be found online... there are shitty copies readily available but I found a good copy somewhere...:
Service data
K 1200 RS as of model year 01, Integral ABS
Oil capacities

Engine (with filter)________3.5 (6.2) litres (Imp. pints)

Gearbox_______________ Initial filling about 0.6 (1.0) litres (Imp. pints)
Gearbox_______________Top up the oil to the bottom of the filler opening

Rear wheel drive_________Initial filling 0.25 (0.44) litres (Imp. pints)
Rear wheel drive_________Oil changes 0.23 (0.40) litres (Imp. pints)
.
.

Chris
Sydney, NSW
2005 Dark Graphite Metallic K1200LT
2005 Orient Blue Metallic K1200GT SE
Ulysses #45310
GS911

cws is offline  
post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old Aug 10th, 2014, 12:18 pm
Rookie
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Southern Pines, North Carolina, United States
Posts: 41
I recently replaced the final drive bearings in my 2002 K1200RS. You should NOT use 70W 140 gear oil! BMW recommends straight 90 weight, but that's hard to find. I would recommend 85W 90 Mobil 1 synthetic.

Here's the videos I did of that repair if you'd like to know what's involved and why the bearing fails.

Part 1:
http://youtu.be/GaJRMzTMLm0

Part 2:
http://youtu.be/INmmJBI0_iw

Hope these help you out.

2001 K1200 RS

Last edited by TechGuy; Aug 10th, 2014 at 7:32 pm.
TechGuy is offline  
post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old Aug 10th, 2014, 6:32 pm
Enthusiast
 
dohalloran's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Oakville, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 227
Whack, whack, hammer, hammer

Geez. If I were going in that far on the rear drive, I would think I'd want a Clymer's manual nearby, rather than keep guessing at what my next step is.

Appreciate the clear audio and video though. And thanks for not having any music playing in the background.

Hope you got it all together.
dohalloran is offline  
post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old Aug 10th, 2014, 7:26 pm
Rookie
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Southern Pines, North Carolina, United States
Posts: 41
Quote:
Originally Posted by dohalloran
Geez. If I were going in that far on the rear drive, I would think I'd want a Clymer's manual nearby, rather than keep guessing at what my next step is.

Appreciate the clear audio and video though. And thanks for not having any music playing in the background.

Hope you got it all together.
Not sure what you mean by "guessing what the next step is".
I make these video in such a way that people with a minimal amount of tools can do the job. I always show alternatives to getting the job done.

I do in fact have the Clymer manual and used it for reference. Those manuals are a must have if you're doing your own work. It's all together and it drives great, which was mentioned in the second video. Nice and smooth now.

2001 K1200 RS
TechGuy is offline  
post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old Aug 10th, 2014, 10:48 pm
Veteran
 
H96669's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Burton, British Columbia, Canada
Posts: 1,782
Quote:
Originally Posted by TechGuy
I recently replaced the final drive bearings in my 2002 K1200RS. You should NOT use 70W 140 gear oil! BMW recommends straight 90 weight, but that's hard to find. I would recommend 85W 90 Mobil 1 synthetic.

Here's the videos I did of that repair if you'd like to know what's involved and why the bearing fails.

Part 1:
http://youtu.be/GaJRMzTMLm0

Part 2:
http://youtu.be/INmmJBI0_iw

Hope these help you out.
Holy effing crap ...I stopped watching at 11.55 and that's after skipping a few other minutes. The puller I carry if I ever have to do that on the road is small and cheap.

You should have asked for help...I know where I showed the tools and where the more proper techniques are applied under shade trees.

Benelli 50cc at 14
Yamaha RD 200 at 16
Yamaha RD 350 at 17
Honda CB 750 F at 18
Honda V45 Sabre at 24
BMW K100RS at 27
BMW R100GS at 34
BMW K1200RS at 53
H96669 is online now  
post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old Aug 10th, 2014, 11:56 pm
cws
Senior Member
 
cws's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Sydney, NSW, Australia
Posts: 137
as additional info for tech-junkies, there's a full Final Drive rebuild video here ( https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sn5zs8RslF4 ) originally done by CharlieVT, who was very active on researching the cause of the final drive failures on the LT forums.... (incorrect shimming causing excessive preload on the bearings) although the video has been copied and re-presented here by someone else.
Drawn out and a bit boring, but if you want an idea of what's involved with measuring the shims for a rebuild...

note: there are some later changes to procedures discussed on the LT forums.... which is commented on in the responses.

Chris
Sydney, NSW
2005 Dark Graphite Metallic K1200LT
2005 Orient Blue Metallic K1200GT SE
Ulysses #45310
GS911

cws is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the K-Bikes.com - Excellence in Motion forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Absolutely the most detailed description of the K1200S I've come across... sinc K12/1300S 20 Jul 19th, 2014 9:04 am
k75 drive shaft possibility Satch Technical, Repair and Maintenance 0 Nov 5th, 2012 8:11 pm
18K Service - How many hours? Captain K12R K12/1300R/R-Sport 8 Jun 17th, 2011 11:18 am
Drive shaft went BANG! nickonoonoo Other K-Bikes Discussion 8 Feb 4th, 2010 9:29 pm
Sullivan County, NY 10-30-05 kevinC Ride Tales 4 Apr 27th, 2008 7:52 pm

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome