99 RS diied, will not start - K-Bikes.com - Excellence in Motion
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 5 (permalink) Old Aug 22nd, 2014, 8:35 am Thread Starter
Noob
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: , ,
Posts: 2
99 RS diied, will not start

While cruising at a steady 45, the bike surged and lost power. Roadside diagnosis showed all fuses good, no priming of fuel pump even after venting tank.

Starter turns motor, no start. Brought it home, found side stand switch broken, dangling under bike. Replaced. No start.

Easter- egged relays with known good. No start. Power to all relays and fuses, fuel pump kicks on when jumpered. No spark at plugs. All roads seem to lead to Motronic, but I find it hard to believe the computer just died.

Any ideas?

V/r, John
johnnytoobad59 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 5 (permalink) Old Aug 22nd, 2014, 2:41 pm
Addict
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: , , UK
Posts: 3,750
You do ask a difficult question with a thousand possible answers!

I looked at the wiring diagram and here's the simplest approach working from a desk, unless you want to go around the 'try this and that' loop and get knowhere:

1. Remove Fuse F4 and check with a multimeter ohmeter that it is not blown. Replace it back in the holder.

2. Locate the large ECU connector (tank off) and the wire that goes to pin 16 which I think is Blue/Brown. The connector pins are numbered on the shell, well those at either end may be. Pierce it with a pin and measure the voltage on that wire with the ignition turned on and everything ready to go. I think this test will still work with the ECU disconnected, but put the plug back to make sure of the result. Do not short the test wire! If you have a bike alarm/immobilizer fitted, that's another can of worms.

3. If you have NOT got +12 volts on that wire, then you have a problem with the immobilizer interlock or the ECU disable relay. If this is the case, there are several steps to fault finding the interlock circuit and you could temporarily connect a small dash lamp or 12 volt led test lamp to that wire. All bikes should have had that in one of the cockpit lamps, just to say 'hey the interlock is disabling my ECU'

Bear in mind I am looking at a diagram which might not be correct on your bike and wire colors used can change.



Never pay again for live sex! | Hot girls doing naughty stuff for free! | Chat for free!
voxmagna is offline  
post #3 of 5 (permalink) Old Aug 22nd, 2014, 6:43 pm
Addict
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Montreal, QC, Canada
Posts: 507
Quote:
Originally Posted by johnnytoobad59
While cruising at a steady 45, the bike surged and lost power. Roadside diagnosis showed all fuses good, no priming of fuel pump even after venting tank.

Starter turns motor, no start. Brought it home, found side stand switch broken, dangling under bike. Replaced. No start.

Easter- egged relays with known good. No start. Power to all relays and fuses, fuel pump kicks on when jumpered. No spark at plugs. All roads seem to lead to Motronic, but I find it hard to believe the computer just died.

Any ideas?

V/r, John
Voxmagna already gave you several ideas.

Based on your description of problem, I am assuming that:
(1) when transmission is in Neutral, side-stand up, turning ignition ON does NOT make any fuel-pump priming sound for 1 or 2 sec.
(2) in same condition as above, when you press starter button, engine will crank but it does not start.

Symptoms above could be related to starter-safety interlock system (side-stand, neutral switch, clutch lever switch)

Check if you see the engine-temp light ON after ignition is turned ON. When this lamp stays OFF, it means the starter safety interlock is active. In addition to the classic scenario (side-stand down and transmission NOT in neutral), the starter-safety interlocks
will stay active (and prevent engine start) in these conditions:
- Side stand switch is unplugged
- One or two wire(s) of the side-stand switch is/are damaged, cut or shorted

Side-stand switch connector is located under seat, attached along the black tube sub-frame with 2 other switches (engine temp and neutral switches). To test this, you need to check female side of connector (leading to side-stand) by testing continuity of WHITE wire with BROWN wire when side-stand is up (PIN #1 and PIN #3).

On older K1200RS (before 2002 depending of country), the WHITE wire above could be BROWN+WHITE (combined color on same wire).

NOTE: If the engine temp light is ON but you still do not get fuel-pump priming after ignition ON, then the search for cause might be a bit more complicated (after checking fuel-pump with 12 volts power source direct obviously).
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	K1200RS_Dash_ligths.jpg
Views:	15
Size:	32.8 KB
ID:	16602   Click image for larger version

Name:	K1200RS_Side-stand_switch_connector.JPG
Views:	24
Size:	168.6 KB
ID:	16610   Click image for larger version

Name:	K1200RS_Side-stand-Switch_Connector-Pins (with notes).jpg
Views:	20
Size:	41.3 KB
ID:	16618  

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
John (Montreal, CANADA)
K1200RS (2002 IceBlue/Red - 96,000 miles)
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Last edited by sailor; Aug 24th, 2014 at 7:26 am.
sailor is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 5 (permalink) Old Aug 23rd, 2014, 10:03 am Thread Starter
Noob
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: , ,
Posts: 2
Many Thanks!

Sailor and voxmagna, you guys rock! I thot I had done all the idiot checks, but I didn't think to check the used switch I got for 10% of a new one. No continuity in either direction, jumpered 1 to 3 on the male plug, and it was a veritable extravaganza of priming and starting!

I have never had an issue with this bike and I am delirious that she is back to life.

Thanks again.

ps. I believe the reason the switch was the fact that the sidestand mounting bolt had loosened, putting pressure on the switch as the nut turned in towards the switch.

Last edited by johnnytoobad59; Aug 23rd, 2014 at 1:39 pm. Reason: Additional info
johnnytoobad59 is offline  
post #5 of 5 (permalink) Old Aug 23rd, 2014, 7:23 pm
Addict
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Montreal, QC, Canada
Posts: 507
Quote:
Originally Posted by johnnytoobad59
Sailor and voxmagna, you guys rock! I thot I had done all the idiot checks, but I didn't think to check the used switch I got for 10% of a new one. No continuity in either direction, jumpered 1 to 3 on the male plug, and it was a veritable extravaganza of priming and starting!

I have never had an issue with this bike and I am delirious that she is back to life.

Thanks again.

ps. I believe the reason the switch was the fact that the sidestand mounting bolt had loosened, putting pressure on the switch as the nut turned in towards the switch.
Glad you got this figured out.

By the way, when everything is back together with a good working switch, do not forget to do the reverse safety check:
(1) Engine running in neutral, sitting on bike (or on center-stand)
(2) pull the clutch, engage 1st gear (hold clutch)
(3) drop side-stand

When side-stand is about half way down, the engine should die. This part of the switch is safety interlock so that you do not ride with side-stand down. This is also reason why switch has 3 wires and not only 2.

As a static test using OhmMeter, with switch opened, both interlocks correspond to these 2 tests:
(A) There should be continuity between Brown and White wires ONLY when side-stand is UP
(B) There should be continuity between Brown and Red wires ONLY when side-stand is DOWN
Pin #1: WHITE wire (stand UP signal)
Pin #2: RED wire (stand DOWN signal)
Pin #3: BROWN wire (common ground)

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
John (Montreal, CANADA)
K1200RS (2002 IceBlue/Red - 96,000 miles)
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Last edited by sailor; Aug 24th, 2014 at 7:27 am.
sailor is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the K-Bikes.com - Excellence in Motion forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
93 K75 - click & dead after attempted jump start ciaranom Technical, Repair and Maintenance 10 May 26th, 2013 3:54 am
K100 wont start, need help on tips and tricks agriaulia Other K-Bikes Discussion 3 Oct 10th, 2012 12:20 pm
Fail to start, jump start works ok - ideas? quintaar K1200RS/GT (Classic) 15 Jan 17th, 2012 10:50 pm
'85 K100 Cutting Out, and Failing to Start. I922sParkCir Other K-Bikes Discussion 17 May 31st, 2010 4:05 pm
Failure to start and failed switch far from home plcedeno K12/1300S 39 Aug 17th, 2009 7:39 pm

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome