Stuck Oil Filter - K-Bikes.com - Excellence in Motion
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old Oct 1st, 2014, 5:38 pm Thread Starter
bcg
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Stuck Oil Filter

Went to change the oil in my 2004 GT and ran into the problem with the filter wrench slipping on the oil filter. Tried getting getting large channels to grab but unfortunately, caused a small tear in the filter casing. Any other options other than dropping the oil pan? How difficult is it to drop the oil pan (i.e., any special tools or techniques)?

Thanks in advance.
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old Oct 1st, 2014, 7:02 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bcg
Went to change the oil in my 2004 GT and ran into the problem with the filter wrench slipping on the oil filter. Tried getting getting large channels to grab but unfortunately, caused a small tear in the filter casing. Any other options other than dropping the oil pan? How difficult is it to drop the oil pan (i.e., any special tools or techniques)?

Thanks in advance.
You are not the 1st one with this problem - it looks like someone is tightening these too much. Recently I have seen a few similar cases on other K1200 forums (including K1200LT).

Also possible, the rubber gasket of old filter remained on the engine sump - so in effect you can find yourself with 2 rubber thickness (affecting perceived torque)

Bike mechanic use many tricks for this problem, - however by far the most common and sure technique is to drill the filter wrench and use metal screws. See this video on YouTube to really understand:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L9t6c...88hqnVKe7d-wIg

Removing the bottom engine sump (more like a large cover) is not difficult, but you have to install with good sealant (no gasket there) and torque in criss-cross pattern with proper value from shop-manual (or CLYMER).

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
John (Montreal, CANADA)
K1200RS (2002 IceBlue/Red - 96,000 miles)
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old Oct 2nd, 2014, 12:52 am
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I've ran into this problem before and had good success with drilling my filter wrench with 4 holes and using 4 self drilling/self tapping sheet metal screws, that I shoot into the stuck filter housing and then unscrew the "assembly", that John mentions in the previous post. Good Luck.

Mike Kelly

Triple M Engineering

K12RS

Stanley, NC
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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old Oct 2nd, 2014, 9:40 am Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sailor
You are not the 1st one with this problem - it looks like someone is tightening these too much. Recently I have seen a few similar cases on other K1200 forums (including K1200LT).

Also possible, the rubber gasket of old filter remained on the engine sump - so in effect you can find yourself with 2 rubber thickness (affecting perceived torque)

Bike mechanic use many tricks for this problem, - however by far the most common and sure technique is to drill the filter wrench and use metal screws. See this video on YouTube to really understand:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L9t6c...88hqnVKe7d-wIg

Removing the bottom engine sump (more like a large cover) is not difficult, but you have to install with good sealant (no gasket there) and torque in criss-cross pattern with proper value from shop-manual (or CLYMER).
Great video! Thanks. I'll try that before removing the oil pan.
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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old Oct 2nd, 2014, 12:09 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bcg
Great video! Thanks. I'll try that before removing the oil pan.
If you have a thick oil-filter-tool (similar to the original BMW tool), I would suggest to drill 3 holes with filter-tool on bench first - use proper drill bits for type of metal and for metal screws size you plan to use.

This will not affect your filter for future use and you may need those holes another time for emergency.
.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
John (Montreal, CANADA)
K1200RS (2002 IceBlue/Red - 96,000 miles)
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old Oct 2nd, 2014, 1:33 pm Thread Starter
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Smile Success!

Hey thanks guys. The 3 screws did the trick. Save me a of trouble and the mess of removing the oil pan. You guys are the best!
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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old Oct 5th, 2014, 3:43 am
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Always change your oil and filter when hot....the filter will spin off much easier when hot.
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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old Oct 5th, 2014, 7:25 pm
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bull shit

I always change the oil while the bike is cold no matter , I call bull shit .
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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old Oct 5th, 2014, 7:57 pm
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Personally, I insist on changing oil when motor and oil is plenty hot, just shut down, while contaminates are well mixed/contained with motor oil. I call no bullshit, just good practice AFAIK

Mike Kelly

Triple M Engineering

K12RS

Stanley, NC
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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old Oct 6th, 2014, 9:54 pm
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Purolator oil filters

Pure One oil filters ( that I use ) have a 99.9% efficiency at the 20 micron particle size . All of the oil that passes through it goes on to the bearing surfaces so if there was any contaminates left in the engine they will be cleaned out by the new oil filter . I have seen people that got burned working on a hot motor , so how hot is hot ? too hot ! I have never had a problem with removing a old oil filter , but it is nice to see a way folks have used to remove a overly torqued oil filter , if it makes you feel better do yours hot , but don't get anyone hurt trying to do a " better job " . I want to add I always fill my oil filters with oil before I install them so it won't have to pump it full before oil pressure is up .
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Last edited by joesflashdog; Oct 6th, 2014 at 11:45 pm.
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