Re:Fluids changed - K-Bikes.com - Excellence in Motion
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post #1 of 26 (permalink) Old Oct 15th, 2005, 9:38 pm Thread Starter
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Re:Fluids changed

So I just changed out my transmission oil and differential oil today for the 1st time (7000 miles) and while it was technically not that big of a deal and I mean this in the most loving way possible to my German made bike, BUT...... What the hell where they thinking when they designed the drain plug and it's location on this thing!? 1st off there is now way you can get a drain pan under it with it on it's center stand, 2nd you can't put a drain pan under it when it's off it's center stand and 3rd who the hell was the knuckle dragger who torqued the drain plug down to 3000 tons per squire inch! I thought the stupid thing was wielded on! And the drain plug for the differential was not to far behind, I think it was 1000 tons per square inch but I wasn't real sure as I think I had an embolism going on right about that time. On the bright side after changing everything over to Mobil 1 75W/90 it shifted smoother then I ever remember but I was a little worried about what I found on the magnet of the differential plug magnet, it had a big "button" of pillow soft almost rubbing compound fine residue on it, not sure what to think of that but other then that the oil coming out looked quite clean, I still want to put in some Royal Purple Gear Max Oil for both but I couldn't get my hands on any so I'll do it next time. Thanks for letting me vent.:-)
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post #2 of 26 (permalink) Old Oct 16th, 2005, 10:07 am
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Never Did It Yet

As a new owner of a GT I have never did the service thing. So I am just reading posts to hear all the stories. I need to obtain a service manual in order to find out many items. You mentioned that you use Mobil 1, I see that Mobil 1 is the perfered oil to change to. How many quarts for the engine and what do you use in the drive line and how much.

Thanks
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post #3 of 26 (permalink) Old Oct 16th, 2005, 10:16 am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by magellan44
As a new owner of a GT I have never did the service thing. So I am just reading posts to hear all the stories. I need to obtain a service manual in order to find out many items. You mentioned that you use Mobil 1, I see that Mobil 1 is the perfered oil to change to. How many quarts for the engine and what do you use in the drive line and how much.

Thanks
All of those quantitys are in your maintenance booklet.
Engine oil with filter is just under 4 qts., rear drive 230cc., transmission is 600cc.
Fill your oil filter with fresh oil before installing. Switch over to synthetic motor oil after 12,000mi.
Bruce C
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post #4 of 26 (permalink) Old Oct 16th, 2005, 10:42 am
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Thanks Bruce. I have read the enclosed booklets but some how over looked this issue. One more question. Do the dealers have service manuals for the newer k models. I was looking for something online but came up empty. I have been at the dealers a few times and always forget to ask. One site said Clymer was in the process of publishing one for March of 06. I been seeing a few posts of CDs but they seem to cover all kinds of BMWs and I was wondering if they were the real thing or something that someone pirated. I don't want to go exploring on the GT until I find a good manual. I have a few miles to go before I should need any service but, winter is on the way and I thought that when time permits I would do so.

Thanks
Ben
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post #5 of 26 (permalink) Old Oct 16th, 2005, 10:54 am
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by magellan44
As a new owner of a GT I have never did the service thing. So I am just reading posts to hear all the stories. I need to obtain a service manual in order to find out many items. You mentioned that you use Mobil 1, I see that Mobil 1 is the perfered oil to change to. How many quarts for the engine and what do you use in the drive line and how much.

Thanks
Ben,
As an Rbike owner I hang out on the oilhead discussion boards. Those guys do a lot more of their own maintenance than most kbike owners seem to. Also, there seems to be more of us geeks (yes, I'm one of them) hanging out there. So there has been a lot of discussion of synthetic oil there and I'm going to sum it up here for you (realize this is my conclusions based on a lot of various opinions but there was a lot of discussion by an expert working or a big 3 automaker who works in the lab where they test oils in engines):

Synthetic oil is needed if you run oil temperatures above 300 F. We don't. Using synthetic to extend your oil change intervals is a BAD idea. Two reasons: Combustion byproducts build up in the oil making it very acidic and the main friction inhibitor, ZDDP, is consumed by mechanical action and may deplete. ZDDP seems to be the big improvement in oils that has allowed car engines to routinely go more than 100,000 miles (remember when people used to brag about that?). The new API SL oil has slightly less ZDDP in it so oil rated SG or SH might be a better choice but isn't a big deal if you make sure to change your oil on schedule.

Synthetic oil meets the same API specs as the dino stuff so it is just as good. I've seen no evidence that is is better at low temps. I recommend saving your money and using a name brand cheap oil of the proper viscosity and changing it on schedule. I also recommend doing it yourself. To me it is easier to change it myself than it is to get the bike to the dealer during service hours and sit there while they change it, or worse, leave it all day. You'll also save some bucks.

Cheers,
Jerry
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post #6 of 26 (permalink) Old Oct 16th, 2005, 11:57 am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by magellan44
Thanks Bruce. I have read the enclosed booklets but some how over looked this issue. One more question. Do the dealers have service manuals for the newer k models. I was looking for something online but came up empty. I have been at the dealers a few times and always forget to ask. One site said Clymer was in the process of publishing one for March of 06. I been seeing a few posts of CDs but they seem to cover all kinds of BMWs and I was wondering if they were the real thing or something that someone pirated. I don't want to go exploring on the GT until I find a good manual. I have a few miles to go before I should need any service but, winter is on the way and I thought that when time permits I would do so.

Thanks
Ben
Ben
There are no printed manuals that I know of for the newer bikes.
I got a cd from Jerry at "Pirates Lair". I think I paid around $90.00(don't quote me), and it is a BMW manual specifically for the late "K" bikes, also available from Motobins in the UK. It was printed? in 2001 but covers everything except your electric windscreen, heated seat and maybe a few other things. Most everything you will need is there(plastic removal, etc.). Oops, no wiring diagrams. They must be a closly guarded secret or something. There are some loose on the net. It is done using pdf files, so it will work on a Mac.
Bruce C
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post #7 of 26 (permalink) Old Oct 16th, 2005, 2:14 pm
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Using synthetic to extend your oil change intervals is a BAD idea.
Jerry, Write-on. I agree 100% with your 'philosophy'. I like to add up to 1 qt. of full syn. to my 20W50 just to give it a 'boost'. May increase mileage a bit too. Change interval of 3,000 mi. is the same though. I don't find an SG rated oil very often, mostly it's "exceeds SG" type of wording. Seems to me that this isn't the same as an SG oil.
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post #8 of 26 (permalink) Old Oct 16th, 2005, 3:00 pm
 
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Originally Posted by chrispat
Jerry, Write-on. I agree 100% with your 'philosophy'. I like to add up to 1 qt. of full syn. to my 20W50 just to give it a 'boost'. May increase mileage a bit too. Change interval of 3,000 mi. is the same though. I don't find an SG rated oil very often, mostly it's "exceeds SG" type of wording. Seems to me that this isn't the same as an SG oil.

I've heard that some of the diesel specific oils in the auto parts stores are API SG oils. Diesel trucks tend to run very long between changes but they have oil sumps measured in Gallons rather than quarts. I plan to investigate this at the next oil change. --Jerry
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post #9 of 26 (permalink) Old Oct 16th, 2005, 5:27 pm
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Oil Changes and Lubes

Good stuff fellows. These are the types of threads I love to read. I like the tech issues for most anything, especially something I can relate to. I do like to do my own work for the reasons you all mentioned. Save a few dollars but mostly because you become familiar with your machine. Some day down the road all this self taught knowledge might come in handy, if not for your self maybe to help someone. So, that is good to know that using regular oil is fine and oils like Mobil 1 are not necessary.

Thank you
Ben
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post #10 of 26 (permalink) Old Oct 16th, 2005, 6:49 pm
 
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Exclamation Fluids changed.......

I have changed my oil once myself at about 3000 miles. It was a peice of cake. I am not sure what Mr. 007007 did wrong. First, I don't think he properly "warmed" the bike up as recommended, as this would have made it easier to remove drain plug. Plus, as far as I have been told, you are not supposed to change over to synthetic oil(s) until at least 10,000 miles ! . Also, a little hint, be very careful not to put in more than 3.3 qts. of oil, run bike a short time, and check "oil" window. It is VERY easy to OVERFILL this bike. It does NOT take a full 4qts. . I put in a total of possibly 3.5 qts. , and it was perfect. Overfilling does more damage than a bike that is somewhat low. You will eventually blow the seals and have a big headache then. Definately follow the rule book/owner's manual specs on tighteneing TORQUE specs !!. Maybe ought to let dealer do your work?. P.S. Do yourself a favor and use Castrol GTX oil (20/50w) at $2.29 a quart, instead of BMW oil at $4.99 a quart. (also, by the way, I am changing to synthetic oil at 10,000 miles, probably Castrol "Syntec" 20/50w).

Last edited by RedHawK12GT; Oct 16th, 2005 at 6:53 pm. Reason: forgot something.....
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