New to the forum but not new to the 'K' - an '04 K1200GT in navy blue bought for the princely sum of €3600 from (as it happens) my former gym teacher in June 2016, pictured: here
The pic didn't open for me. Sure would like to see it, tho.
Obviously, love the bike - as does the wife. Effortless speed achieved through stately, mature, panic-free acceleration - and comfort as long as you have arms that are 2 inches longer than average (I do not) and a neck shorter by the same.
I have some "bar backs" that are very simple but effective for reducing the gap between you and the controls.
However, as is I suppose normal for a bike that was new when I was still being forced to run laps by the aforementioned gym teacher, it has a few technical quirks.
I wanted to ask, "am I the only one"? No, Chasmania, you aren't the only "technical quirk" here. You are not alone. There are plenty of us here.
1) My digital dash - ie the clock and the gear position indicator - doesn't really work. It's not that it's blank, it's that it only shows parts of whatever it is it should be displaying: only the bottom of the 2 - the top of the 6 - the side of the 9 - this sort of thing. The blank bits change over time. Am I the only one?
Sounds like your display may be going away. Do you have a source for used parts ??
2) The indicator lights indicator - ie the bit you can see when you're on the bike - have a rather uneven rhythm. By this I mean they don't go "- - - -" - they'll go - ... - .. - - - . - ... - -" (deploying my finest Morse code, there). Am I the only one?
Some of the indicator (idiot) lights blink independently to indicate problems or initializing sequence. Most of the time they are steady on or off. You may have a loose or bad ground or something similar going on with your dash.
3) When cold the engine will, 80% of the time, cut out if you give it anything other than the softest turn of throttle. I understand this was a common bug on these bikes but for the first 5-10 minutes of any ride, the bike will stall if you even think the word "beans" (as in, "give it the..."). Am I the only one?
See #5 below. The Motorad ECU really prefers a 100% charged battery.
4) The range - seriously - even on the motorway I'd be lucky to see 220km before the yellow light of doom comes on. In the city you can count yourself blessed if you get to 180km. Industrial and military vehicles get better mileage. Am I the only one?
Check the last three numbers on your ECU (under the tank., or with a GS911). THE BEST ECU is a "296". It was the final ECU from BMW for the K12RS. I just changed my chip to a copy of the 296 chip in the ECU and several throttle issues disappeared along with a very nice MPG increase.
5) The battery goes flat over time as the bike is used. Now admittedly I'm only doing 5 kms to work and then 5kms back and perhaps that's not enough to recharge the battery AND I have a spyball alarm fitted that, while I never use it because the bike is parked in a locked garage at home and at work, is still "on" - but, over time the bike will get harder and hard to start and also more likely to stall. Am I the only one?
This is an issue that POSSIBLY relates to several of your other items. IF you are currently using an AGM type battery and your voltage regulator is OEM, you are not getting a full charge in the battery. AGM batts (Absorptive Glass Matt) are newer tech than these bikes and require a slightly higher voltage (14.5-7 Volts) to properly charge. Also, your "wall charger" should be AGM rated, too. Can you provide the make and type battery you have and do a load test on your battery and a charging voltage test??
5 bis) Sometimes when I turn the key the lights all come on but then if you press the button nothing happens. You need to press and hold the clutch or the brake and it'll turn over. Other times it'll start with just the press of the ignition. Am I the only one?
Sounds like a bad elec connection somewhere. It could be in the ignition switch itself, the handlebar controls, a relay, any of the safety switches, or a bad ground.
6) When the bike gets really hot - or, strangely, if you have revved the engine a lot - coolant sometimes sprays out of the reservoir under the seat - the coolant levels are between the lines and it's all been set up by a BMW garage (I go there because it's close by, not because I somehow feel that a 14 year old bike requires €75-an-hour levels of care). Am I the only one?
Uh-oh. Sounds like a possible head gasket leak. Are your radiator fans coming on when it gets hot, maybe when the dial is halfway between normal and "H"?? Let's hope not as that is easier to fix. You might also try back-flushing the radiators with a garden hose jet, NOT a pressure washer. Mine were full of crud, sand, bug and leaf particles at 40K. I'd guess and hope your fans are the problem.
7) The heated grips only seem to work on the right-hand side. Am I the only one?
Follow the power OR do an Ohm test of just that left side heating element.
Looking forward to hearing from the forum.