2003 k1200 rs, overheating - K-Bikes.com - Excellence in Motion
 2Likes
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 32 (permalink) Old Jun 13th, 2019, 2:57 am Thread Starter
Noob
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Denver, CO, USA
Posts: 16
2003 k1200 rs, overheating

Bought a 2003 K 1200 RS with 40,000 miles last year. Love the bike, but I have noticed that it overheats in City traffic here in Denver. Is that a common issue with this bike, and if so is there a solution to the problem? Thanks, Mark
mark1 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 32 (permalink) Old Jun 13th, 2019, 4:32 am
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Honolulu, HI, USA
Posts: 81
Not immediately familiar with your bike, but note that you're in the "Mile-High City" altitude 5.000 feet so air is less dense and thus less able to carry away heat from the radiator. You've not posted your mechanical experience or aptitude so everything is negotiable, as it were.

Start simple: if the rad was drained, ensure it's refilled properly and no bubbles are trapped in the cooling system. You may have to do coolant system bleeding a couple times to get it right. Make sure there's coolant in there. Dumb things, but mission-critical.

There are the usual suspects to interrogate: if the bike overheats at a standstill, suspect the fan or clogging in the radiator. Does the fan come on when it should, and spin freely? Are the cooling fins of the radiator clean and not clogged with bugs or whatever?

If overheating occurs at speed, suspect the radiator. Can you remove and run water through the rad easily?

Possibly (unlikely, methinks) the thermostat is faulty. I doubt that.

HTH.
Honolulu is offline  
post #3 of 32 (permalink) Old Jun 13th, 2019, 1:12 pm
Noob
 
clunk's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2019
Posts: 1
Mine did the same a 2002 RS with a bit over 138,000 K's on it was a bug collection in the radiators it got so hot the overflow tank puked i replaced the lost coolant with straight coolant no water just straight concentrate i took the Tupperware off and cleaned the cores out it's amazing how much flora and fauna gets trapped in there while the fairing was off i removed the loose rattling grills for more air flow and i can actually see if the fan is spinning without having to find my glasses thats a bonus she definately runs cooler all round but can still get quite hot stuck at traffic lights I'm at Sea level and in a tropical zone so it's always hot even in winter and the humidity wooo some days are unbearable even on the bike.
clunk is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 32 (permalink) Old Jun 14th, 2019, 1:28 am
Rookie
 
Join Date: Oct 2018
Posts: 51
Mine is a 2003 K1200GT and it runs hot. Purchased last Fall. I am told it is considered normal for the K1200s temp arrow to be small amount above the center line. Mine is not boiling over or all the way into the danger zone. It did disturb me originally but not causing trouble. The fan kicks in around the center of the temp gauge. I am also told it is hot on your leg.

I had the radiator fluids changed, grill clean, air filter new. Same temp range. Location for me is Chicago, riding in 80 degrees down to 40s. Highway speeds has the temp in the middle. Sitting in traffic, stop-go, temp up a little.

Hope this helps you.

This link was on my particular case. Shows picture of my temp gauge.

https://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthread...mp+running+hot

Last edited by jrmull; Jun 14th, 2019 at 1:36 am.
jrmull is offline  
post #5 of 32 (permalink) Old Jun 14th, 2019, 2:03 am Thread Starter
Noob
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Denver, CO, USA
Posts: 16
Honolulu,
I'm just a shade tree mechanic, but when given detailed instructions I have been able to do some things I've never done before.
Anyway because of the overheating I had an independent BMW mechanic replace the antifreeze with engine ice at the end of last season while he was doing some other things for me. Of course when I rode in the cold weather it was fine. But now this spring when it's only 70 degrees outside I'm having the same problem. At highway speeds have never had a problem. And actually if I'm doing 35 miles an hour steady it's also okay if I don't have a lot of stop signs but as soon as I hit stop and go the temperature escalates very quickly, and I have to keep a close eye on the needle and stop if it gets in the red, because I don't want to overheat that engine again. So it seems that sitting at idle and for any amount of time causes the temperature to go way up.
As per your suggestions I will check to see if the fan comes on when it is supposed to and also if it spins freely I will also check as well 4 bugs in the radiator. Thanks a lot for your input, Mark
mark1 is offline  
post #6 of 32 (permalink) Old Jun 14th, 2019, 2:10 am Thread Starter
Noob
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Denver, CO, USA
Posts: 16
Clunk, thanks for your reply I will do what you did and pull the tupperware and clean The cores out and I also may do what you did and remove the grills so there is more airflow it certainly makes sense- I also like the idea that when you do that you can see the fan more easily and tell whether or not it's on or not when it ought to be. Thanks again, Mark. By the way where do you live?
mark1 is offline  
post #7 of 32 (permalink) Old Jun 14th, 2019, 2:29 am Thread Starter
Noob
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Denver, CO, USA
Posts: 16
jrmull,
My gauge stays in the middle when I'm on the highway, but it consistently runs right up to the red line in stop and go traffic. Last summer before I had the engine ice put in it went half way past the first red line and the red Idiot light went on and it overheated. Now I keep a close eye on it and pull over and shut it off when it hits the red line. Thanks for your input, I'll report back once I've tried the suggestions from all of you guys.
mark1 is offline  
post #8 of 32 (permalink) Old Jun 14th, 2019, 11:53 am
Rookie
 
Join Date: Oct 2018
Posts: 51
I didn't hear about thermostat changes (like the old cars with the flow restrictor inside). Not sure if this bike has one. Anyway, RED line can't be good. Keep hunting and report back. Mine runs hot too. I will check to see when my fan turns on. I think it is 1/4 the way up. My traffic is 90% stop-go or 45mph.

From Jeff's comment on the link was of interest regarding the gauge and engineer thinking.

"My 03 K12RS runs with its coolant gage just below the half-way mark as its normal position. On an open road it holds that position regardless of outside temperature. Any amount of traffic in front of me and the gage will climb up to where yours is. A bit higher than that and the fans come on.

Keep in mind that modern cars , if they have a temp gage at all, use multiple methods to maintain a steadier reading. First, many use electric thermostats that are more responsive, and modern engines are designed for steadier temperatures as a means to control emissions.
Secondly, they play games with the gage itself. We assume that a 20% rise in gage reading means the coolant temp went up something close to 20%. Not so. Engineers determined at some point that so long as the engine temps were within the normal operating range there was no need to alarm the driver by moving the gage. So while a lot of modern car/bike temp gauges appear to hold steady at mid-temps, that doesn't mean the fluid temps aren't fluctuating. They just aren't increasing enough that you are supposed to worry about it, or be told about it.
I believe our Ks predate these trends as our gages are quite active."


Regards John
jrmull is offline  
post #9 of 32 (permalink) Old Jun 14th, 2019, 9:49 pm
Rookie
 
Join Date: Oct 2018
Posts: 51
Update, my K1200GT 2003 with 26k miles has the fans turn on at about half way between normal and red zone. Holds steady with the fan going. So about 3/4 way on the temp gauge. Regards John
jrmull is offline  
post #10 of 32 (permalink) Old Jun 15th, 2019, 1:21 am
Noob
 
Join Date: May 2019
Posts: 1
Check your fan

I'd be making sure the cooling fan is coming on. The K Bikes will behave exactly as you're describing when the fan stops working. The only time my temps would climb would be in traffic in hot temps. Having a manual switch makes knowing if it's working a lot of a mystery and ensures it's only on when you want it.

Let us know how you make out with it.
BlackSwan is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the K-Bikes.com - Excellence in Motion forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome