Clutch Push Rod Replacement? - - Excellence in Motion
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post #1 of 4 (permalink) Old Jul 4th, 2019, 4:08 pm Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2018
Posts: 3
Clutch Push Rod Replacement?

Working my way through the clutch/o-ring/rear seal job. 1998 K12RS 60K Miles.
Replacing all the usual bits including slave cyl, plus some tranny seals just because I'm in here and don't want to have to come back anytime soon.

Clymers says to inspect clutch rod for wear but gives no real things or specs to check.
There is no obvious damage. Rod is true. It is the old/original style without the cutout for the felt sleeve.
Is there a reason to replace this?
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post #2 of 4 (permalink) Old Jul 6th, 2019, 9:46 pm
Join Date: Jun 2019
Posts: 23
Yours looks about the same as mine and I went ahead and reused mine with about 50K on the clock. You can pick up a good used upgraded version for $10-$20 on ebay if you're so inclined.
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post #3 of 4 (permalink) Old Jul 10th, 2019, 11:01 pm
Quiltzig's Avatar
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Hamilton, Waikato, New Zealand
Posts: 9
These rarely give any issues, so if it is straight (they only get bent if you take the clutch / gearbox out incorrectly) then I would re-use it on the basis of if it is not broken don't fix it.
The seals, correct torque and lube for the splines is more important - correct type and not too much of it.
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post #4 of 4 (permalink) Old Jul 11th, 2019, 9:42 am
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Taylor, Texas, USA
Posts: 26
Bennair; Dunnatt

I would urge you to refill this system with Dot 5 fluid - in case it decides to leak again. Dot 5 is silicon, and much more user friendly when rubber seals are in the area. DO NOT use Dot 5 in the brake system - but it might work if you delete the ABS system..

Also, use the best grease you can find on the rod - I found some instrument grade graphite stuff when I did this same task.


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