I doubt this connector has been removed as it pulls out from the main harness - it is attached along the left side black-tube sub-frame with a bunch of other short wires sections for many other sensors (Neutral, Engine-coolant , Side-stand and Oxygen sensor). Unless they were stupid enough to cut this completely from the main harness running along that frame tube...
IF YOU CANNOT FIND THIS male side-stand connector (from main harness side), then your remaining option is to go into Electronic Relays junction box under fuel tank (on right side). As shown in attached diagram, in top section of this junction box, you will find all Relays.
The number 3 relay in diagram is for EFI Computer (Motronic). Under this Relay, there is a 4 wires connector: the pin number 5 of this connector should have a Brown+White wire ( this is in fact connected to Pin 85 of Relay - remove Relay to check underside). What the side-stand does is to furnish the ground signal thru this wire (when side-stand is UP) so that Motronic can be activated / powered by this Relay When this happens, you should see the RED engine temp warning on dash after ignition ON - of course this is assuming all rest of wiring is correct.
What you can do as a test to simulate stand being ALWAYS UP, is to connect the pin 5 under this Relay (Brown+White wire) to a ground point. There is such ground point (brown wire) at the top right of the Relay junction box (see 2nd picture). Do this ground wire connection ONLY with Ignition OFF and Battery disconnected. After all wiring work is done, then you can connect battery and test igintion ON. This precaution is in case you touch wrong wire during work - you can make a bad short or damage EFI computer. YOU ARE ON YOUR OWN, work carefully ;-)
Luckaly after all the help I don't feel alone!
So I took the afternoon of, as I really wanted to get the red light burning. AND IS BURNS!!! ALL THE EXT BELOW IS bs RIGHT NOW:-) BUT STILL POSTING IT AS I SPEND A LOT OF TIME ON IT.
Looking at the NR3 Motronic relay I discovered there was only a 2 inch part left of the Brown/White cable that is connected to pin 5 of the Motronic connector/relay. Clearly this cable was cut.
Disconnected the battery like you said and then made a bridge between the BR/WH wire and the Brown ground in the corner of the relay jbx.
Connected the battery again, Switched ignition to on position and immediately got a strange noise (rattling rrrrrrrrrr) not sure if it was from the ECU or a relay. Sounds like it is making a short.
I noticed all lights on the instrument panel where out. Tried switching on and of for several times....no lights.
Removed the ground wire, switched on and off again.....no lights.
Few minutes later tried it again....Lighs (battery/oil/N) back ON! So was happy again.
So did some "re-search" and will try to describe what I've found;
-Underneath the Motronic relay NR3 is the 4 wire connector Pin nr 5 on the bottom side is the B/W wire.
-In my explanation I will clearly make a difference between the connector, and the relay that is installed on top of the connector.
-I disconnected the relay from the connector and noticed that on the bottom of the relay itself are also nr's, but not corresponding to the nr's on the bottom of the connector.
connector nr 5 (BR/WH) connects to relay pin 2.
Connector nr 3 Gr/R) connects to relay pin 1. (have measured 12V on this pin when switching ignition to ON)
Connector nr 2 (GR/B) connects to relay pin 5
Connector nr1 (Red/Green) connects to relay pin 3. (12Vconstant even with ignition OFF)
This is the Siemens relay vV23073-B1005-x18 and the link to a photo:
So looking at the diagram on the relay; as we have 12V on the relay pin 1 (thin Green/red wire only getting 12V when contact switch is on) and we make ground with relay Pin 2 (br/wh cable) the solenoid inside should switch allowing the contact inside to close so relay pin 3 and 5 are connected (Connector Pin 1 and 2, Red/Green and Green/Black wire).
The red/green wire on relay pin 3 and connector pin 1) has a constant 12V applied even with ignition switch off, so when solenoid is switched, power+ will be going to the Green/Black wire (connector pin 2 relay pin 5.)
This Green/Black wire runs to the ECU and is connected on Pin 1 (or do you call it EFI?) I Suppose this is the + to the EFI/ECU.
So I think that providing a 12V power to ECU/EFI pin 1 might make the temp bulp lit up. I haven't got the curage to check this without uhm...consulting you.
After this, I cut the Green/black wire to ensure no power was going to the EFI/ECU. made the bridge again from pin5 connector to ground, Switched ignition back on, all lights out again????.
Starter motor is still cranking the engine.
If I switch the headlight switch light bulp on instrument pnl does lit up although the rest are not.
****Update 10min later: I discovered the lights on instrument panel going on and off had to do with a bad wire connection on the blue instrument connector on the rights side. After twiggling some cables I discovered this was the issue of lights dying on and off......***
Looking forward to hear your thoughts, hope my explanation is understandable.