Custom project, no spark - Page 2 - K-Bikes.com - Excellence in Motion
 1Likes
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #11 of 38 (permalink) Old Aug 15th, 2019, 5:02 pm
Addict
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Montreal, QC, Canada
Posts: 461
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kleinelars1. View Post
Did some searching, asked a friend to have a second look but just can't find any 3 pin connector with a W/B/R colored wire.
Do you happen to know where these wires lead to, so I can jump them at the ECU or at a relay or so?

Yes, I want to install a side-stand switch again later, as soon or later I will eventually forget it somehow...with all risks involved. But for now stll aiming for that first spark;-)
I doubt this connector has been removed as it pulls out from the main harness - it is attached along the left side black-tube sub-frame with a bunch of other short wires sections for many other sensors (Neutral, Engine-coolant , Side-stand and Oxygen sensor). Unless they were stupid enough to cut this completely from the main harness running along that frame tube...

IF YOU CANNOT FIND THIS male side-stand connector (from main harness side), then your remaining option is to go into Electronic Relays junction box under fuel tank (on right side). As shown in attached diagram, in top section of this junction box, you will find all Relays.

The number 3 relay in diagram is for EFI Computer (Motronic). Under this Relay, there is a 4 wires connector: the pin number 5 of this connector should have a Brown+White wire ( this is in fact connected to Pin 85 of Relay - remove Relay to check underside). What the side-stand does is to furnish the ground signal thru this wire (when side-stand is UP) so that Motronic can be activated / powered by this Relay When this happens, you should see the RED engine temp warning on dash after ignition ON - of course this is assuming all rest of wiring is correct.

What you can do as a test to simulate stand being ALWAYS UP, is to connect the pin 5 under this Relay (Brown+White wire) to a ground point. There is such ground point (brown wire) at the top right of the Relay junction box (see 2nd picture). Do this ground wire connection ONLY with Ignition OFF and Battery disconnected. After all wiring work is done, then you can connect battery and test igintion ON. This precaution is in case you touch wrong wire during work - you can make a bad short or damage EFI computer. YOU ARE ON YOUR OWN, work carefully ;-)
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	K1200RS_Relay_positon_electronic_box.jpg
Views:	8
Size:	139.7 KB
ID:	24987   Click image for larger version

Name:	K1200LT_Electronic_box_Ground_2.jpg
Views:	7
Size:	296.9 KB
ID:	24991  

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
John (Montreal, CANADA)
K1200RS (2002 IceBlue/Red - 96,000 miles)
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
sailor is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #12 of 38 (permalink) Old Aug 16th, 2019, 7:34 am Thread Starter
Noob
 
Join Date: Aug 2019
Posts: 22
Quote:
Originally Posted by sailor View Post
I doubt this connector has been removed as it pulls out from the main harness - it is attached along the left side black-tube sub-frame with a bunch of other short wires sections for many other sensors (Neutral, Engine-coolant , Side-stand and Oxygen sensor). Unless they were stupid enough to cut this completely from the main harness running along that frame tube...

IF YOU CANNOT FIND THIS male side-stand connector (from main harness side), then your remaining option is to go into Electronic Relays junction box under fuel tank (on right side). As shown in attached diagram, in top section of this junction box, you will find all Relays.

The number 3 relay in diagram is for EFI Computer (Motronic). Under this Relay, there is a 4 wires connector: the pin number 5 of this connector should have a Brown+White wire ( this is in fact connected to Pin 85 of Relay - remove Relay to check underside). What the side-stand does is to furnish the ground signal thru this wire (when side-stand is UP) so that Motronic can be activated / powered by this Relay When this happens, you should see the RED engine temp warning on dash after ignition ON - of course this is assuming all rest of wiring is correct.

What you can do as a test to simulate stand being ALWAYS UP, is to connect the pin 5 under this Relay (Brown+White wire) to a ground point. There is such ground point (brown wire) at the top right of the Relay junction box (see 2nd picture). Do this ground wire connection ONLY with Ignition OFF and Battery disconnected. After all wiring work is done, then you can connect battery and test igintion ON. This precaution is in case you touch wrong wire during work - you can make a bad short or damage EFI computer. YOU ARE ON YOUR OWN, work carefully ;-)

Luckaly after all the help I don't feel alone!
So I took the afternoon of, as I really wanted to get the red light burning. AND IS BURNS!!! ALL THE EXT BELOW IS bs RIGHT NOW:-) BUT STILL POSTING IT AS I SPEND A LOT OF TIME ON IT.


Looking at the NR3 Motronic relay I discovered there was only a 2 inch part left of the Brown/White cable that is connected to pin 5 of the Motronic connector/relay. Clearly this cable was cut.
Disconnected the battery like you said and then made a bridge between the BR/WH wire and the Brown ground in the corner of the relay jbx.
Connected the battery again, Switched ignition to on position and immediately got a strange noise (rattling rrrrrrrrrr) not sure if it was from the ECU or a relay. Sounds like it is making a short.
I noticed all lights on the instrument panel where out. Tried switching on and of for several times....no lights.
Removed the ground wire, switched on and off again.....no lights.
Few minutes later tried it again....Lighs (battery/oil/N) back ON! So was happy again.

So did some "re-search" and will try to describe what I've found;
-Underneath the Motronic relay NR3 is the 4 wire connector Pin nr 5 on the bottom side is the B/W wire.
-In my explanation I will clearly make a difference between the connector, and the relay that is installed on top of the connector.
-I disconnected the relay from the connector and noticed that on the bottom of the relay itself are also nr's, but not corresponding to the nr's on the bottom of the connector.
-So,
connector nr 5 (BR/WH) connects to relay pin 2.
Connector nr 3 Gr/R) connects to relay pin 1. (have measured 12V on this pin when switching ignition to ON)
Connector nr 2 (GR/B) connects to relay pin 5
Connector nr1 (Red/Green) connects to relay pin 3. (12Vconstant even with ignition OFF)

This is the Siemens relay vV23073-B1005-x18 and the link to a photo:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/99-BMW-K120...-/293035425653

So looking at the diagram on the relay; as we have 12V on the relay pin 1 (thin Green/red wire only getting 12V when contact switch is on) and we make ground with relay Pin 2 (br/wh cable) the solenoid inside should switch allowing the contact inside to close so relay pin 3 and 5 are connected (Connector Pin 1 and 2, Red/Green and Green/Black wire).
The red/green wire on relay pin 3 and connector pin 1) has a constant 12V applied even with ignition switch off, so when solenoid is switched, power+ will be going to the Green/Black wire (connector pin 2 relay pin 5.)
This Green/Black wire runs to the ECU and is connected on Pin 1 (or do you call it EFI?) I Suppose this is the + to the EFI/ECU.

So I think that providing a 12V power to ECU/EFI pin 1 might make the temp bulp lit up. I haven't got the curage to check this without uhm...consulting you.

After this, I cut the Green/black wire to ensure no power was going to the EFI/ECU. made the bridge again from pin5 connector to ground, Switched ignition back on, all lights out again????.
Starter motor is still cranking the engine.
If I switch the headlight switch light bulp on instrument pnl does lit up although the rest are not.
****Update 10min later: I discovered the lights on instrument panel going on and off had to do with a bad wire connection on the blue instrument connector on the rights side. After twiggling some cables I discovered this was the issue of lights dying on and off......***

Looking forward to hear your thoughts, hope my explanation is understandable.

**********************************

Last edited by Kleinelars1.; Aug 16th, 2019 at 7:46 am.
Kleinelars1. is offline  
post #13 of 38 (permalink) Old Aug 16th, 2019, 7:48 am Thread Starter
Noob
 
Join Date: Aug 2019
Posts: 22
Many thanks Sailer, I have the spark back a life again!!!
Will keep you posted upcoming days about the progress.

Really, really happy now!
Kleinelars1. is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #14 of 38 (permalink) Old Aug 16th, 2019, 8:58 am
Addict
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Montreal, QC, Canada
Posts: 461
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kleinelars1. View Post
Luckaly after all the help I don't feel alone!
So I took the afternoon of, as I really wanted to get the red light burning. AND IS BURNS!!! ALL THE EXT BELOW IS bs RIGHT NOW:-) BUT STILL POSTING IT AS I SPEND A LOT OF TIME ON IT.


Looking at the NR3 Motronic relay I discovered there was only a 2 inch part left of the Brown/White cable that is connected to pin 5 of the Motronic connector/relay. Clearly this cable was cut.
..
....
/After this, I cut the Green/black wire to ensure no power was going to the EFI/ECU. made the bridge again from pin5 connector to ground, Switched ignition back on, all lights out again????.
Starter motor is still cranking the engine.
If I switch the headlight switch light bulp on instrument pnl does lit up although the rest are not.
****Update 10min later: I discovered the lights on instrument panel going on and off had to do with a bad wire connection on the blue instrument connector on the rights side. After twiggling some cables I discovered this was the issue of lights dying on and off......***

Looking forward to hear your thoughts, hope my explanation is understandable.

**********************************
VERY happy you are making some progress on this. Although I am a bit sad someone has made so much damage to wiring. Electrical system on a modern fuel injected vehicle (Car or Motorcycle) is more complicated to troubleshoot than an older simple motorcycle of 1970 era with carburetor and no ABS.

Not sure if you have used a software translator like "Google Translate" to post above - it is a bit hard to follow so I will answer as best as I can based on my understanding.

Looks like someone was there before you and made a big mess - why would someone cut wires leading to main EFI Motronic relay ?

(1) All these relays are the same part number and can be interchanged , except these 4:
ABS-Warning-Relay (different color) , fuel-level warning Relay (larger than other relays) , Flasher Relay (larger than other relays , Starter Relay (is separate from the other and much larger)

(2) In general, when working with these common Relays, the following Pin numbers are used in Automotive industry - most relays manufacturer will display a small diagram on the Relay external casing:
- Pin 30 and 87 (can also be 3 and 5): entry and exit power source from/to the Relay. Pin 87 / 5 being the output power that will activate the device controlled by this Relay. The wire on Pin 30 / 3 is often coming from a fuse-box but not always.

- Pin 85 and 86 (can also be 1 and 2): these are the Pins for the low wattage power to trigger the Coil inside the relay.


(3) There can be some confusion with the BMW electrical diagram available on CD as they will mention either OR sometimes both of these Pins:
- the pin number on the Relay itself (30 , 87 , 85 or 86)
- the pin number on the black plastic connector where the Relay is mounted (in general up to 5 possible pins numbered 1 to 5)
- Or the diagram molded in the plastic cover of relay might inverse the relationship of 1-2 pair and 3-5 pair compare to BMW diagram on CD.

(4) SO, because of the above, In my post I will often give both Pins number reference WITH ALSO the wire color to confirm proper position.

-------------------------------------------------------------
In the case of this specific EFI module Relay (Motronic):
-------------------------------------------------------------
- the power source goes from LEFT side Fuse Box using fuse number 4 (15 amps) with RED+Green wire to the Pin 30 of this Relay (pin 1 on base connector / Pin 3 on Relay case)

- when Relay is triggered, this power goes out of Pin 87 (pin 2 on base connector / pin 5 on Relay case) with GREEN+Black wire toward Pin 1 of the large Motronic unit connector (just above all these Relays). This will make the Motronic "Alive" (after igntion ON). Once this is done, Motronic will ground the signal coming out of Pin 18 of the Motronic connector (BROWN+Black wire) to light up the RED engine temp warning on dash. After engine is started, Motronic will stop the ground on Pin 18 so that the engine temp warning goes off (unless engine is currently in overheat condition based on coolant sensor signal).

- all the above can happen only if the Relay coil is actually activated by Pin 86 and 85 (Pin 3 and 5 of the black base connector). The GREEN+Red wire power to activate the Coil comes from Kill-switch (on handlebar). The other wire (BROWN+Black on Pin 85) is TO Side stand switch as described in an earlier post (as a ground point to close the circuit).


P.S.:
(A) see attached fuse diagram for 1998-2002 models of K1200RS in USA (this would be 1997-2002 models in Europe)
(B) see 2nd photo for pins number sequence on Motronic connector in junction box. This is for a more recent k1200LT model having the new type Blue starter Relay, but the Motronic wiring above is the same sequence as a K1200RS.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	K1200RS Fuses (1998-2002).jpg
Views:	6
Size:	220.3 KB
ID:	24993   Click image for larger version

Name:	K1200LT_Motronic_PINS_sequence.jpg
Views:	8
Size:	206.1 KB
ID:	24995  

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
John (Montreal, CANADA)
K1200RS (2002 IceBlue/Red - 96,000 miles)
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Last edited by sailor; Aug 16th, 2019 at 6:59 pm.
sailor is offline  
post #15 of 38 (permalink) Old Aug 20th, 2019, 5:04 am Thread Starter
Noob
 
Join Date: Aug 2019
Posts: 22
Quote:
Originally Posted by sailor View Post
VERY happy you are making some progress on this. Although I am a bit sad someone has made so much damage to wiring. Electrical system on a modern fuel injected vehicle (Car or Motorcycle) is more complicated to troubleshoot than an older simple motorcycle of 1970 era with carburetor and no ABS.

Not sure if you have used a software translator like "Google Translate" to post above - it is a bit hard to follow so I will answer as best as I can based on my understanding.

Looks like someone was there before you and made a big mess - why would someone cut wires leading to main EFI Motronic relay ?

(1) All these relays are the same part number and can be interchanged , except these 4:
ABS-Warning-Relay (different color) , fuel-level warning Relay (larger than other relays) , Flasher Relay (larger than other relays , Starter Relay (is separate from the other and much larger)

(2) In general, when working with these common Relays, the following Pin numbers are used in Automotive industry - most relays manufacturer will display a small diagram on the Relay external casing:
- Pin 30 and 87 (can also be 3 and 5): entry and exit power source from/to the Relay. Pin 87 / 5 being the output power that will activate the device controlled by this Relay. The wire on Pin 30 / 3 is often coming from a fuse-box but not always.

- Pin 85 and 86 (can also be 1 and 2): these are the Pins for the low wattage power to trigger the Coil inside the relay.


(3) There can be some confusion with the BMW electrical diagram available on CD as they will mention either OR sometimes both of these Pins:
- the pin number on the Relay itself (30 , 87 , 85 or 86)
- the pin number on the black plastic connector where the Relay is mounted (in general up to 5 possible pins numbered 1 to 5)
- Or the diagram molded in the plastic cover of relay might inverse the relationship of 1-2 pair and 3-5 pair compare to BMW diagram on CD.

(4) SO, because of the above, In my post I will often give both Pins number reference WITH ALSO the wire color to confirm proper position.

-------------------------------------------------------------
In the case of this specific EFI module Relay (Motronic):
-------------------------------------------------------------
- the power source goes from LEFT side Fuse Box using fuse number 4 (15 amps) with RED+Green wire to the Pin 30 of this Relay (pin 1 on base connector / Pin 3 on Relay case)

- when Relay is triggered, this power goes out of Pin 87 (pin 2 on base connector / pin 5 on Relay case) with GREEN+Black wire toward Pin 1 of the large Motronic unit connector (just above all these Relays). This will make the Motronic "Alive" (after igntion ON). Once this is done, Motronic will ground the signal coming out of Pin 18 of the Motronic connector (BROWN+Black wire) to light up the RED engine temp warning on dash. After engine is started, Motronic will stop the ground on Pin 18 so that the engine temp warning goes off (unless engine is currently in overheat condition based on coolant sensor signal).

- all the above can happen only if the Relay coil is actually activated by Pin 86 and 85 (Pin 3 and 5 of the black base connector). The GREEN+Red wire power to activate the Coil comes from Kill-switch (on handlebar). The other wire (BROWN+Black on Pin 85) is TO Side stand switch as described in an earlier post (as a ground point to close the circuit).


P.S.:
(A) see attached fuse diagram for 1998-2002 models of K1200RS in USA (this would be 1997-2002 models in Europe)
(B) see 2nd photo for pins number sequence on Motronic connector in junction box. This is for a more recent k1200LT model having the new type Blue starter Relay, but the Motronic wiring above is the same sequence as a K1200RS.
Sorry it has been a couple of days, had to change the tires on my daily driver (sry a Honda Africa Twin) and spend a day at the veterinarian with my dog for having Stomach issues.
Agree, I have no idea what the PO has been doing, even found some grounded wires before (like the one from the ignition coil), that he simply just disconnected for whatever reason.
No I'm not using google translate;-) but during typing my previous post I was so happy that the bike had a spark that I didn't take the time to review my text. I'll try to write in English to the best of my ability;-).

Thanks for the explanation above, I will definitely have a more detailed look to it this evening when I am at my bike as it makes it easier to put in context.
During the weekend it did take quick look at the lights and got it sorted out partly so far; PO installed a new custom/caferacer headlight, so will need to wire that up, will not be to hard.
On the back there is also a new light installed with day light/brake light and license plate light.
He also installed but not connect 2 LED flasher lights in the rear end of the bike, but kept the normal 21W flasher lights on the end of the handle bars.
So I have a few questions if you don't mind, will number them to make it easier for you to follow

1 LED Blinkers/flashers
As far as I remember LED flasher lights can only be used when another special relay is used, or when the right resistor is used. Could I keep the original front flasher lights and install Resistors on the rear currently installed LED flasher lights? Like these: https://www.motorcorner.nl/resistor-...yABEgLH0vD_BwE
I prefer to keep the wiring as it is, and not to replace the original flasher relay as there was already enough damage done the to current wiring on my K1200RS.

2 There is a 5 pin connector that connects all lights to the rear. It has a Blue/red cable that runs to the center of the bike, where it "intercepts"(?) with several more B/R colored wires. Do you know what this cable does?

3 Several cables have been cut, can you explain their purpose?
3A on ABS Relay all 4 wires have been cut. will this cause any problems?
3B On RH fuse box the wires to the 15A fues have been cut both (Red+Red/Yellow)
3C CPU/EFI cable has been cut at Pin 6
3D RH connector box. The blue connector for the instrument panel several wires have been cut: Blue/Red Green/Yellow Blue/Black White/Black
3E I found a "intersection" of several lightblue/blue wires on the RH side from where 4 wires have been cut.

4 I've been reading some posts about the ABS unit that can be removed as was done on mine. but this would result in the Speedometer not working. do you have any suggestions for that?

Thanks again. Looking at the level of details in yourdescriptions above I get the feeling you've a BMW Master degree;-)
Kleinelars1. is offline  
post #16 of 38 (permalink) Old Aug 20th, 2019, 7:11 am
Addict
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Montreal, QC, Canada
Posts: 461
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kleinelars1. View Post
...
.....
No I'm not using google translate;-) but during typing my previous post I was so happy that the bike had a spark that I didn't take the time to review my text. I'll try to write in English to the best of my ability;-).

During the weekend it did take quick look at the lights and got it sorted out partly so far; PO installed a new custom/caferacer headlight, so will need to wire that up, will not be to hard.
On the back there is also a new light installed with day light/brake light and license plate light.
He also installed but not connect 2 LED flasher lights in the rear end of the bike, but kept the normal 21W flasher lights on the end of the handle bars.
So I have a few questions if you don't mind, will number them to make it easier for you to follow

1 LED Blinkers/flashers
As far as I remember LED flasher lights can only be used when another special relay is used, or when the right resistor is used. Could I keep the original front flasher lights and install Resistors on the rear currently installed LED flasher lights? Like these: https://www.motorcorner.nl/resistor-...yABEgLH0vD_BwE
I prefer to keep the wiring as it is, and not to replace the original flasher relay as there was already enough damage done the to current wiring on my K1200RS.
...
.....
1) GENERAL INFO about your LAST post: Sorry, I did not mean to be negative as your English is quite good considering it is not your 1st language. It was just that this specific post that was long and hard to follow. By the way, English is not my 1st language either - this is the power of forums on the Internet. I have worked in Computer Software for 25 years and I remember very well the years before a global and fast Internet network - it is much easier and faster now to get info from across the planet ;-)

2) About the FLASHERs: all K1200RS (and some other models) are equipped with a fancy / complex Flasher Relay that can do many added task. It contains logic circuits for 4 ways flashers AND also contains logic to stop flashing automatically after a certain time + distance (depending on speed of course). This relay has a 12 pins connector (only 10 are used) and is located with all other Relays under fuel-tank.

This Relay was not designed for LED Bulbs and will cause the same symptoms as any other Flasher Relays will if you attempt to use LED: will flash too fast because of different current / power usage of LED bulbs. The general method to quickly solve this issue when doing LED bulb conversion (on any vehicle) is to add in-line resistor. These small resistor module (with heat sink) are easy to find on EBAY or any automotive suppliers.

Of course, another option is to replace with a specific Flasher Relay made for LED bulbs - However because of this 12 pins interface it is more complex to create a new modified pin-out for a regular flasher relay - in general these have only 3 or 4 pins.

Will answer other questions later in a separate post - otherwise it becomes very hard to follow each separate problem...

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
John (Montreal, CANADA)
K1200RS (2002 IceBlue/Red - 96,000 miles)
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Last edited by sailor; Aug 20th, 2019 at 2:16 pm.
sailor is offline  
post #17 of 38 (permalink) Old Aug 20th, 2019, 7:48 am
Addict
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Montreal, QC, Canada
Posts: 461
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kleinelars1. View Post
..
....
2 There is a 5 pin connector that connects all lights to the rear. It has a Blue/red cable that runs to the center of the bike, where it "intercepts"(?) with several more B/R colored wires. Do you know what this cable does?
...
.....
For all rear lights (flashers, rear + brake lights , license plate) there is a large 6 pins connector located under seat on right side. See attached picture for location and more info on each wire function. Be aware that wire color might be different on each side of the connector - of course the front side is toward the main harness and the other side (toward rear) is to the tail and underside of fender.

The 2nd picture will show that remaining section of wiring for the rear can be reached ONLY AFTER you remove a small plastic cover under the rear fender. This small plastic cover is NOT shown on picture.

By the way, on the opposite rear sub-frame under seat (on Left side), there is also another large black plastic connector that looks like the rear light connector. This one is not plugged into anything unless you have the optional BMW Alarm / immobilizer system.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	K1200RS (1997-2001) Rear_Brake_Ligth_Large-connector.jpg
Views:	8
Size:	228.4 KB
ID:	25061   Click image for larger version

Name:	K1200RS TAIL-REAR-FAIRING (Underside wiring).jpg
Views:	6
Size:	102.4 KB
ID:	25063  
Honey Badger likes this.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
John (Montreal, CANADA)
K1200RS (2002 IceBlue/Red - 96,000 miles)
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
sailor is offline  
post #18 of 38 (permalink) Old Aug 20th, 2019, 9:46 am
Addict
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Montreal, QC, Canada
Posts: 461
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kleinelars1. View Post
...
.....
3 Several cables have been cut, can you explain their purpose?
3A on ABS Relay all 4 wires have been cut. will this cause any problems?
3B On RH fuse box the wires to the 15A fues have been cut both (Red+Red/Yellow)
3C CPU/EFI cable has been cut at Pin 6
3D RH connector box. The blue connector for the instrument panel several wires have been cut: Blue/Red Green/Yellow Blue/Black White/Black
3E I found a "intersection" of several lightblue/blue wires on the RH side from where 4 wires have been cut.
..
....
Answers for the above questions ONLY to make this easier to read:

(3A) In same post you said that the ABS unit had been removed. In your case, for any K1200RS of 1997-2000 models having the older ABS2 modulator, this Relay and the RED ABS warnings on dash would serve no purpose once the ABS unit is removed. So I do not think it will cause any issue if this ABS Relay cut out of the system AS-LONG-AS the remaining wiring job is clean and well insulated. For later models having the newer ABS with servos , removal of any ABS related component becomes more complex (these are from 2001 in Europe / from 2002 in USA).

(3B) RH fuse box the wires to the 15A fues have been cut both (Red+Red/Yellow): this is normally connected to external Power socket for accessory (like heated vest , battery charger plug...). So I have to assume this socket located on left side has been removed - see attached picture for socket location above LEFT footpeg to check yours.

(3C) CPU/EFI cable has been cut at Pin 6: I am NOT SURE if you are referring to Pin 6 of the large Motronic EFI connector as visible from inside the Relay junction box ? If so, then this wire should be Brown+Blue and is normally connected to the Air-temperature sensor attached to the large air filter box. Maybe they did modify the original Air-filter box...

This sensor is important to help EFI system achieve best mixture depending on external air temperature entering air box. Removal of this Air-temp sensor is NOT as critical as the engine coolant sensor - but it is part of the EFI equation (maybe roughly 10%). When Motronic ECU sees no valid signal from this sensor on Pin 6, it will assume a default air temp of 20 celcius - this means that in very cold air you engine will run a bit leaner than it should. However, because there is feedback from an Oxygen-sensor, this is adapted / corrected for in most "fairly constant RPM" riding conditions and also idling. So, for engine longevity and good fuel economy, it is critical to check if you have a functioning Oxygen sensor.


(3D) RH connector box. The blue connector for the instrument panel several wires have been cut: Blue/Red Green/Yellow Blue/Black White/Black:
- of course they probably taught the following: IF the ABS unit is removed and the ABS Relay has been disconnected, the wires leading to instrument panel for the second ABS warnings on dash serves no purpose. The White+Black and the Green+Yellow are for the 2nd red ABS warning (in fact the 3rd warning starting from left top row).

- for the Blue+Red I am not 100% sure as this one is normally between ABS Relay and the ABS unit - it could also be connected to the 1st Red ABS warning (2nd warning from top row). So there might might a mistake in BMW diagram on CD that I have. My used spare wire harness in garage is only for later K1200RS (2001+) and I do not have an earlier K1200RS (like yours) currently here to compare.



(3E) I found a "intersection" of several lightblue/blue wires on the RH side from where 4 wires have been cut:
BMW does not use this color combo so maybe the color has faded / change over time - maybe these were Green+Blue ? Can you show photo were is this connector located and what does it looks like ?
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	K1200RS (1997-2001) Power Outlet.jpg
Views:	9
Size:	191.6 KB
ID:	25069  

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
John (Montreal, CANADA)
K1200RS (2002 IceBlue/Red - 96,000 miles)
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Last edited by sailor; Aug 20th, 2019 at 3:37 pm.
sailor is offline  
post #19 of 38 (permalink) Old Aug 21st, 2019, 8:19 am Thread Starter
Noob
 
Join Date: Aug 2019
Posts: 22
Quote:
Originally Posted by sailor View Post
For all rear lights (flashers, rear + brake lights , license plate) there is a large 6 pins connector located under seat on right side. See attached picture for location and more info on each wire function. Be aware that wire color might be different on each side of the connector - of course the front side is toward the main harness and the other side (toward rear) is to the tail and underside of fender.

The 2nd picture will show that remaining section of wiring for the rear can be reached ONLY AFTER you remove a small plastic cover under the rear fender. This small plastic cover is NOT shown on picture.

By the way, on the opposite rear sub-frame under seat (on Left side), there is also another large black plastic connector that looks like the rear light connector. This one is not plugged into anything unless you have the optional BMW Alarm / immobilizer system.
Thanks John.
I've just ordered 2 resistors to see if I can get the 2 rear LED flasher lights working together with the standard flasher lights on the front (Handle bar).
The second connector you mentioned I haven't seen. maybe need to look better or I assume it is no longer installed (cut away by PO or so...)
Kleinelars1. is offline  
post #20 of 38 (permalink) Old Aug 21st, 2019, 8:30 am Thread Starter
Noob
 
Join Date: Aug 2019
Posts: 22
Quote:
Originally Posted by sailor View Post
Answers for the above questions ONLY to make this easier to read:

(3A) In same post you said that the ABS unit had been removed. In your case, for any K1200RS of 1997-2000 models having the older ABS2 modulator, this Relay and the RED ABS warnings on dash would serve no purpose once the ABS unit is removed. So I do not think it will cause any issue if this ABS Relay cut out of the system AS-LONG-AS the remaining wiring job is clean and well insulated. For later models having the newer ABS with servos , removal of any ABS related component becomes more complex (these are from 2001 in Europe / from 2002 in USA).

(3B) RH fuse box the wires to the 15A fues have been cut both (Red+Red/Yellow): this is normally connected to external Power socket for accessory (like heated vest , battery charger plug...). So I have to assume this socket located on left side has been removed - see attached picture for socket location above LEFT footpeg to check yours.

(3C) CPU/EFI cable has been cut at Pin 6: I am NOT SURE if you are referring to Pin 6 of the large Motronic EFI connector as visible from inside the Relay junction box ? If so, then this wire should be Brown+Blue and is normally connected to the Air-temperature sensor attached to the large air filter box. Maybe they did modify the original Air-filter box...

This sensor is important to help EFI system achieve best mixture depending on external air temperature entering air box. Removal of this Air-temp sensor is NOT as critical as the engine coolant sensor - but it is part of the EFI equation (maybe roughly 10%). When Motronic ECU sees no valid signal from this sensor on Pin 6, it will assume a default air temp of 20 celcius - this means that in very cold air you engine will run a bit leaner than it should. However, because there is feedback from an Oxygen-sensor, this is adapted / corrected for in most "fairly constant RPM" riding conditions and also idling. So, for engine longevity and good fuel economy, it is critical to check if you have a functioning Oxygen sensor.


(3D) RH connector box. The blue connector for the instrument panel several wires have been cut: Blue/Red Green/Yellow Blue/Black White/Black:
- of course they probably taught the following: IF the ABS unit is removed and the ABS Relay has been disconnected, the wires leading to instrument panel for the second ABS warnings on dash serves no purpose. The White+Black and the Green+Yellow are for the 2nd red ABS warning (in fact the 3rd warning starting from left top row).

- for the Blue+Red I am not 100% sure as this one is normally between ABS Relay and the ABS unit - it could also be connected to the 1st Red ABS warning (2nd warning from top row). So there might might a mistake in BMW diagram on CD that I have. My used spare wire harness in garage is only for later K1200RS (2001+) and I do not have an earlier K1200RS (like yours) currently here to compare.



(3E) I found a "intersection" of several lightblue/blue wires on the RH side from where 4 wires have been cut:
BMW does not use this color combo so maybe the color has faded / change over time - maybe these were Green+Blue ? Can you show photo were is this connector located and what does it looks like ?
Thanks for answers! For
(3A) is clear to me. I will ensure I insulate all cut wires properly.
(3B) Indeed that socket was already removed.
(3C) Clear. Yes I meant Pin 6 of the large Motronic EFI connector. I do not even have the Air-temperature sensor attached to the large air filter box. for now I will leave that as is. If the bike is running not properly I will buy it and find a way to install it. I do have the Oxygen sensor still installed, I is locatedin the collector at the center of the Exhaust right. (LH side).
(3D) You're right, the bulbs ABS on the instrument pnl where also missing the cables so these have een removed/cut between the blue connector and instrument pnl.
(3E) No for sure it was a lightblue/blue or grey/blue color to me. See picture attached.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0922.JPG
Views:	6
Size:	821.7 KB
ID:	25077  
Kleinelars1. is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the K-Bikes.com - Excellence in Motion forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome