I just bought a 30K 98 Taxi Cab K1200RS - K-Bikes.com - Excellence in Motion
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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old Nov 29th, 2019, 9:23 pm Thread Starter
PsyKotic Waterfowl
 
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I just bought a 30K 98 Taxi Cab K1200RS

I didn't pay a whole lot for it since it has a clutch starting to slip that the PO didn't want to deal with. He also said that it has a slight oil leak "sometimes when left on the side stand." I'm probably going to just leave it parked until March (I have other Ks to ride in the interim) when the temperatures in my garage are a bit warmer. I assume I'll need to tear it apart and maybe replace the clutch plate and rear main seal but I've done spline lubes and clutch work on the 20 odd older Ks that I've owned and have plenty of free time and tools so that doesn't really worry me.

On the upside it's only got 30K on it and has Ohlins suspension with a Remus exhaust.

A few questions:

1 - Is it possible to support the rear of it with a sawhorse like I do with my older Ks to get the center stand and transmission off?

2 - Are the final drive pivot bearings "decent" or should I plan on replacing those? (Most of the time the cheap plastic bearing races on the earlier paralever Ks fall apart when you take the final drive off.)

And here's what it looks like. I'm generally not a fan of yellow motorcycles but for some reason I've always liked these K1200RS graphics.

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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old Nov 30th, 2019, 10:58 am
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Same bearings all the way across all the Paralever bikes.Same part number.Mine are now at 225,000 kms.I'll do the yearly maintenance in a day or so coincidentally with greasing my U-joints and cleaning the rear caliper.I may decide on new bearings but one has to look at them first.....!

Not going much farther so I don't need to bring in the work table/platform I built a few years ago.8x3' and just a matter of lifting the table up by a foot or so and setting it on blocks.Sure makes a clutch job comfortable vs working on the ground under the chain hoist.

Benelli 50cc at 14
Yamaha RD 200 at 16
Yamaha RD 350 at 17
Honda CB 750 F at 18
Honda V45 Sabre at 24
BMW K100RS at 27
BMW R100GS at 34
BMW K1200RS at 53
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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old Dec 2nd, 2019, 1:35 pm Thread Starter
PsyKotic Waterfowl
 
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Does a 98 K1200RS "burn" oil like the earlier Ks or is the oil level fairly static?
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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old Dec 2nd, 2019, 4:26 pm
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98 with conventional conrods?Bad tendency to seize up and grenade at No1 conrod.

BMW updated the engines shortly thereafter(99?)to cold cracked conrods.

Minimal oil consumption on my 03.About 1L/10,000kms at now 293,000 kms.Compression still above 160psi and oil pressure all the way up still according to my gauge.

Benelli 50cc at 14
Yamaha RD 200 at 16
Yamaha RD 350 at 17
Honda CB 750 F at 18
Honda V45 Sabre at 24
BMW K100RS at 27
BMW R100GS at 34
BMW K1200RS at 53
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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old Dec 2nd, 2019, 5:04 pm
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Excellent idea to make a support. I think a good one from 2x4's would be easy. This taxi is my favorite color scheme. I had a 98 also. Glad I did not see it before you. I live in Mount Vernon, if you want a 19x4mm Viton oring I have plenty. One is free.
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Mount Vernon, WA.
tire guy, I'll mount your tires.
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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old Dec 3rd, 2019, 4:10 pm Thread Starter
PsyKotic Waterfowl
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Beech View Post
Excellent idea to make a support. I think a good one from 2x4's would be easy. This taxi is my favorite color scheme. I had a 98 also. Glad I did not see it before you. I live in Mount Vernon, if you want a 19x4mm Viton oring I have plenty. One is free.
Not in Seattle anymore. I need to go update my user profile. I live over on Hood Canal on 101 now.

Would you be willing to mail me an O-ring? PM me if so.

(for a free beer next beer next time you're riding Hood Canal)
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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old Dec 4th, 2019, 7:37 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FlyingDuck View Post
I didn't pay a whole lot for it since it has a clutch starting to slip that the PO didn't want to deal with ...

1 - Is it possible to support the rear of it with a sawhorse like I do with my older Ks to get the center stand and transmission off?

2 - Are the final drive pivot bearings "decent" or should I plan on replacing those? (Most of the time the cheap plastic bearing races on the earlier paralever Ks fall apart when you take the final drive off.)
Nice Bike!

Must be a very short saw horse. I clamp the front wheel down and use a bottle jack under the tranny when I've done the rear drive unit. That's twice now, btw. I think that's the weakest link in this drivetrain. To disassemble as far forward as the tranny, I'd have to put the bottle jack under the engine and as far aft as possible to avoid getting too far ahead of the center of gravity (COG). The COG is only a concern until I get the rear wheel and final drive off.

When you get it all apart, you might consider replacing the clutch slave. You don't want to have to do it all again. Mine's down right now for that very problem with a worn out slave unit, although at 87K, it's never failed me before. Neither has the clutch disc itself for that matter, and as far as I can tell, the clutch is still strong. I'm not sure if I'll pull the tranny and look at it when I do the slave unit, but I'll see when I get there. I may just do that if only to lube the splines.

As with the clutch, I've never had any problems with the pivot bearings. As long as the bike keeps handing great, I won't consider replacing them. Just keep them properly adjusted - very important.

For perspective on my bike, 82K of the 87K are mine. So I'm pretty confident that the clutch disc, slave unit, and pivot bearings are still the originals.

Also for perspective, I had 114K on my old '85 K100RS, and never had to replace a clutch. Bought one once, but never had to install it. I think your failure at only 30K is very premature and I'd be concerned about previous owner abuse.

' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' '
John Filak - Dallas, Texas


'01 K1200RS '01 R1100S '02 R1150RS
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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old Dec 4th, 2019, 7:44 pm
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Originally Posted by FlyingDuck View Post
Not in Seattle anymore. I need to go update my user profile. I live over on Hood Canal on 101 now.

Would you be willing to mail me an O-ring? PM me if so.

(for a free beer next beer next time you're riding Hood Canal)
You are in good hands with Beech and Pierre.
Both were key contributors in my 98 K1200RS rear main seal project in June 2009.
I used a hoist, but would go with Beech’s approach if I had it to do again.
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98 K12RS taxi, 2000 K12RS taxi, 2004 K12GT, 2009 GSA, 2014 R-Nine-T
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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old Dec 4th, 2019, 9:52 pm
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If I haven't tossed it in the scrap pile I have a 98 clutch pack somewhere.28Ks(miles) and the friction material is shredding.Got so hot that one of the metal plates is showing heat stress cracks.But no signs of oil from a failed Oring.

Yep.....some sure weren't into durability/high milleage from some early pics/posts I remember.

Benelli 50cc at 14
Yamaha RD 200 at 16
Yamaha RD 350 at 17
Honda CB 750 F at 18
Honda V45 Sabre at 24
BMW K100RS at 27
BMW R100GS at 34
BMW K1200RS at 53
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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old Yesterday, 9:31 am
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You might consider a weep hole (very similar in function to a water pump weep hole) in the slave cylinder housing while you have the bike apart. The tiny throw-out bearing in the slave cyl piston is turning with the engine AT ALL TIMES. When the bearing fails or the slave just starts leaking from old age the hydraulic fluid has no escape except down the clutch rod to the clutch, requiring another clutch job. AMHIK. There are several easy ways to create a weep hole at the housing. I have pics if you want them.

If you have the OEM rubber brake lines you are living on borrowed time. DOT4 eats them from the inside, either locking the brake or bursting the line. It's not the miles but the years that destroy them. Those should be replaced with Spiegler or Galfer braided stainless PTFE lines. An ease one day, $250 fix at home.

DO get the Viton ring from Beech!!

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