Driveshaft K1200RS - K-Bikes.com - Excellence in Motion
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old Feb 16th, 2020, 4:10 pm Thread Starter
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Driveshaft K1200RS

Hello!

I have a 2001 K1200 RS with 132,501 miles, I am the original owner. I am doing some preventive maintenance and checking everything over this winter. I have the driveshaft out and noticed the front u-joint is notchy feeling, the rear u-joint is smooth in all directions. So I ordered a couple of driveshafts off of fleabay. The 2 driveshafts I got were from a 2000 K12Rs and a 2003 K1200GT. I had checked Max's microfiche to make sure the part numbers were the same before I made the purchases. When I got them all together side by side on the bench I noticed the 2003 GT is longer by .25" or @ 6mm. I also noticed the rubber isolator material is at the bottom of the outer housing. My original and the 2000 have the rubber material recessed a little bit. I did not pick up on this when I hit the "buy it now" button. Only noticed this when I have them all together.

A) is it possible for the inner shaft with the rubber to slide down? maybe? I would not think it can.
B) I was not able to locate a spec for the length in the Clymer manual. Does anyone know the spec or where to verify? I would hate to have things bust apart when I compress the suspension.
C) was there a change in manufacturing from 2001 to 2003?

My final goal with this is to decide which one of these driveshafts is going to get hacked. I need a u-joint part to make the "special" tool to hold the pinion on the rear drive so I can check the back lash when I rebuild the rear drive. The tool I guess I need is showing in the Clymer manual, page 440, figure 120, letter F. also same in figure 121 Letter B. I don't have the rear drive apart yet, just getting all the parts and tools lined up before I start. Then I will use the best driveshaft parts of the 3 I have.

Thank you in advance for advice!
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Last edited by K257mx; Feb 16th, 2020 at 4:13 pm. Reason: I should mention that the 2003 shaft is the one in the middle. Sorry i forgot to inlude this earlier.
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old Feb 16th, 2020, 7:43 pm
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A is Yes! More of a GS problem that when the inner tube spins into the outer part.The burning rubber smell!And further immobilisation! The rubber can also get damaged by contact with petroleum products such as gear oil.

B? I'll give you a length tomorrow,I have a near new complete driveshaft in the parts bin.But the one with the rubber to the edge?That one looks normal.

C?....no change altough there might have been a part number change way back then? the specs/fitment were the same.
BTW....should be a production date stamped on them DSs.

Benelli 50cc at 14
Yamaha RD 200 at 16
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Honda CB 750 F at 18
Honda V45 Sabre at 24
BMW K100RS at 27
BMW R100GS at 34
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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old Feb 17th, 2020, 3:06 pm
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https://flic.kr/p/ok2iuwYbG


https://flic.kr/p/2iuxay6

Let me see if I can post pics!I can't see them in preview might have to click post to see them but in case they don't show link is opened to the public.

2005 date code driveshaft w/less than 10,000 kms.Nice and tight u-joints....all the grease is still in and they DO NOT flop down under their own weight!

BTW you do not have to cut a yoke out to make a special pinion locking tool.Put the rear knuckle back in there and wedge it!


https://flic.kr/p/2iuwwkN

And if you know where the edge of the crown gear is in relation with the outside part of the cover one doesn't even need to open the final drive to measure lash.

Right there at the edge of the boss.9.7 mm +-0.05mm

https://flic.kr/p/2iuwCFP

Benelli 50cc at 14
Yamaha RD 200 at 16
Yamaha RD 350 at 17
Honda CB 750 F at 18
Honda V45 Sabre at 24
BMW K100RS at 27
BMW R100GS at 34
BMW K1200RS at 53
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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old Feb 17th, 2020, 6:15 pm Thread Starter
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Thank you for the info, I appreciate it. I was able to view the pictures. If I am reading the your measurements correct @ 30 cm? I measured all 3 D/S I have:
2000 measured @ 30.6 cm, with 12,620 miles
2001 measured @ 30.6 cm, with 121,518 miles
2003 measured @ 31 cm, with 37,095 miles.
Only the 2000 driveshaft front u-joint will hold its weight and my 2001 driveshaft rear u-joint will hold up, all the others don't and are notchy.

I am curious if you noticed on the 2005 driveshaft if the isolator rubber material was at the end of the outer housing or recessed a bit? The 2003 model has the rubber at the edge of the housing and the other 2 are recessed.

I will try that tip with wedging the pinion on the rear drive. I have 121,518 miles on the rear drive and the rear drive oil leaking at the pinion area- it's not coming down the swingarm- that was dry. Either the pinion seal is leaking or the threads to that 4 pin collar are leaking.

I have pulled the transmission out and the clutch out. This is how I came about the driveshaft findings.
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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old Feb 17th, 2020, 9:56 pm
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That's 31+ 3 bars.So 31.15 cm.Scale is on the big calipers.And yes some rubber recesss.Maybe 1/32".

Too late to check my 03 OEM but now rebuildable/greasable driveshaft,I regreased it and stuck it back in before Xmas.

Where was the OEM front ujoint grease? All spread in a circle in the swingarm?

Pinion seal? The compression sleeve is most probably grooved hence the leak.A new one is an update,the part changed some back then.

Not the easiest DIY replacing the seal....extracting the sleeve etc....! Investment in time/tools etc...I'd suggest a dealer's repair.I'd lend you my tools but unless you are in BC....could be costly shipping!
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Benelli 50cc at 14
Yamaha RD 200 at 16
Yamaha RD 350 at 17
Honda CB 750 F at 18
Honda V45 Sabre at 24
BMW K100RS at 27
BMW R100GS at 34
BMW K1200RS at 53
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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old Feb 18th, 2020, 6:35 pm Thread Starter
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Thank you for the measurements. I measured the recess of the rubber in the outer housing is @ 5.5mm deep. The front u joint grease looked ok inside the swing arm, not too bad. The worst grease was at the rear u joint- that was slopped all around inside the swingarm. I added a pic of the front u-joint on the one I am going to use. So my conclusion to the driveshafts that I have at the moment- I am going to use the 2000 model front portion with no notchy at all and does not drop by itself and the rear u-joint from my bike- 2001 which also still holds up and no notchy feeling in any direction. I am not going to use that 2003 with the rubber at the edge if the housing. I maybe use it for a temporary back up if needed. I won't hack any of the u-joints to make that tool for the rear drive.

Thanks for the offer on the tool loan!
I have been reading about the pinion seal being a nightmare. I have 121,518 miles on the rear drive and from what I have been reading- I am on borrowed time with this. I could run it but I don't want to be miles from home when it lets go. I have changed the oil often and I have used a mix of oils in it. I first started using the golden color gear oil( I can't remember if it was 80/90 0r 75w?) and then eventually switched over to the 75w140 red GL5 oil a long long time ago. I use the same stuff in the transmission. I have gathered some tools and made some tools for the battle. I got the most of the parts, thread sealant, and Loctite ready to go. and I have a Makita heat gun and a infrared thermometer to make sure it is good and hot before I start spinning some wrenches. Just have to get some time to get at it, and give it a go! I have a back up rear drive just in case.
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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old Mar 6th, 2020, 10:33 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by H96669 View Post
A is Yes! More of a GS problem that when the inner tube spins into the outer part.The burning rubber smell!And further immobilisation! The rubber can also get damaged by contact with petroleum products such as gear oil.

B? I'll give you a length tomorrow,I have a near new complete driveshaft in the parts bin.But the one with the rubber to the edge?That one looks normal.

C?....no change altough there might have been a part number change way back then? the specs/fitment were the same.
BTW....should be a production date stamped on them DSs.
You mentioned the burning rubber smell potentally being this rubber isolator before. What is actually happening to cause the smell, how detrimental is it (safety issue?)

in looking at driveshafts on ebay, i've see 2 different types. I'm guessing some are just mising the end with a ujoint?

this one

or this one

the second one, that end doesn't really look like a press fit, it looks like its welded.... so is the first one different or ???

thanks!
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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old Mar 7th, 2020, 10:53 am
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First one is 1/2 a driveshaft,missing the splined rear piece that slides in.

Second one is complete but not phased as it should be upon reinstallation.

If the inner splined part of the front DS spins into the outer part from degraded rubber torsion dampener which also fuses the parts together it will smell like burning rubber.Mind you.....you'd lose power to the rear wheel eventually.

Just like that,wasn't the cluch:

https://advrider.com/f/threads/r1150...ailure.816417/

Benelli 50cc at 14
Yamaha RD 200 at 16
Yamaha RD 350 at 17
Honda CB 750 F at 18
Honda V45 Sabre at 24
BMW K100RS at 27
BMW R100GS at 34
BMW K1200RS at 53
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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old Mar 7th, 2020, 10:19 pm
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Is it common to have them do that? Bike only has 38000 miles.

If the 2 pieces are splined, how does it spin inside of the one?

Also why do most on flee bay only sell the 1/2?

Last edited by Shaun Surveyboy Bootsma; Mar 7th, 2020 at 11:21 pm.
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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old Mar 8th, 2020, 1:13 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shaun Surveyboy Bootsma View Post
Is it common to have them do that? Bike only has 38000 miles.

If the 2 pieces are splined, how does it spin inside of the one?

Also why do most on flee bay only sell the 1/2?
No not common but s...t happens!

Inner splined part of the front 1/2 is laminated/bonded into the outer part with the rubber dampener.So s....t happens when it delaminates.

Yep.....most fleabay offerings are 1/2.Lazy dismantlers....!

Be careful what you buy over there,someone I knew bought 2 front 1/2 and neither was any good as the Ujoint was notchy.So I sold him a good one and he found that the rear knuckle from a CL(?) was the same and found a cheap low milleage to match my good cheap front! And refit his low milleage (20K?) K1200RS with a good driveshaft.

Now.....what does YOUR bike smell like?Rubber or clutch?Something dripping down from the upper area?Misrouted tank/brakes vent/drain lines? PO might have been hard on some of the parts?

Benelli 50cc at 14
Yamaha RD 200 at 16
Yamaha RD 350 at 17
Honda CB 750 F at 18
Honda V45 Sabre at 24
BMW K100RS at 27
BMW R100GS at 34
BMW K1200RS at 53
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