No Crank, ABS Pump Runs when ignition turned on (1999 K1200RS) - K-Bikes.com - Excellence in Motion
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old May 13th, 2020, 11:05 pm Thread Starter
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No Crank, ABS Pump Runs when ignition turned on (1999 K1200RS)

Spring is here and the Polar Vortex receded so it was time to drop my freshly charged battery in the stallion, fire it up and take it for a spin. Unfortunately, my steed had other ideas.

Battery in, key on and but no crank, with the battery and ABS indicator lights on. Flip the ignition off then back on, turn the kill switch off then on, still no crank, then suddenly the ABS pump starts running! Turn the ignition off and the ABS pump stops. Check my connections, battery voltage (12.5 no load, 11.7 when ignition and ABS pump is on), kick stand interlock, etc. etc. Still no joy.

Next I bled the calipers and ABS wishfully hoping for a simple solution. The old fluid looked good (brakes get bled regularly). Disconnect, inspect and reconnect ABS sensors and main ABS connector and no change.

Now Iím strongly suspecting a faulty ABS unit. However unlike other K1200 ABS II faults Iíve read about, my ABS pump will shut off when I turn off the ignition.

I'm out of ideas and looking for some options for this stubborn stallion. ABS castration seems appealingóin twenty years with this bike I can only recall the ABS kicking in once. (It did save my ass when I braked into a patch of diesel.) I'd prefer not to spend the money or time for an ABS rebuild ($350 at Module Masters) when the bike also needs fork seals, rear tire, valve adjustment and a new ($80!) valve cover gasket.

However, if I opt for the castration I want to keep the speedo. My understanding is I'll need to keep the ABS brains intact. But if the ABS brains are causing the no crank condition, then Iíve not helped myself.

So questionówill a faulty ABS condition prevent the starter from cranking? Or am I looking at two problems?

Any suggestions on what else I should check or other options?

THANKS AND STAY SAFE

kontoboy
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old May 14th, 2020, 8:36 am
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Not a servo-iABS so the speedo (and brake light) functions are not going through the ABS electronics on a 99.

Benelli 50cc at 14
Yamaha RD 200 at 16
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Honda CB 750 F at 18
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old May 14th, 2020, 10:21 am Thread Starter
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Thanks H96669--Good to know. I did read that on one forum/thread but it seems most posters were claiming the need to keep the ABS brains. The features of the different generations of ABS are new and still confusing to me.

I'll hook up the battery again and spin the rear wheel without the ABS and see if I can get the speedo to move.

Thanks again.

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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old May 14th, 2020, 9:42 pm Thread Starter
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I dug into it a little more today. I reinstalled the battery and with the ABS unplugged (no whirring pump) I can now hear the starter relay click when I hit the start button, but still no crank. So it appears the no crank issue is unrelated to the ABS issue.

I rechecked my voltages and all the accessible starter connections and found no problems. Now I''m dropping the motor to access the starter. No quick fix here--it is a PITA job.

Hopefully the starter issue is something simple with the starter. I don't recall ever having worked on it in the 20 years I've had the bike so it could be as simple and a dirty armature or worn brushes.

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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old May 15th, 2020, 8:27 am
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Don't drop that motor just yet!

Could be a way to get the starter out:

https://www.k-bikes.com/forums/77-te...l-k1200rs.html

That is my early method.....had a nicely updated version w/better pics on that other forum but they flushed it all.

Benelli 50cc at 14
Yamaha RD 200 at 16
Yamaha RD 350 at 17
Honda CB 750 F at 18
Honda V45 Sabre at 24
BMW K100RS at 27
BMW R100GS at 34
BMW K1200RS at 53
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old May 16th, 2020, 2:31 am
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Why do you need to replace the valve cover gasket? Unless itís broken, there is generally no need to buy a new one as it can be used time and time again. If you have a weep of oil from the valve cover screws, this can be sorted by bring them up a good cook up in water with a dash of soap in it. Failing that, a thin stainless washer in front of the rubber will add a little pressure to the rubber to stop the weep.

2002 K1200RS Owned from new. Pacific Blue, Ohlins. 183,000kmís
2016 K1300R Black, Remus hexacone. 6000kmís
The family history
1951 AJS 500 single - my Dads
1916 Triumph Type H, Western front, France WW1 - my Grandads
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old May 21st, 2020, 2:41 pm
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Pulled mine out years ago and went straight hydraulic. Best thing I ever did. ABS 3 is a PITA.
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old May 22nd, 2020, 2:57 am
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Pierre, is that like my method requiring a little massaging with a dremel to get it out? Like you my photos and description are all lost on the other side. Kontoboy there is absolutely no need to raise the frame for this however I am wondering if this is necessary. I would only be doing this as a last resort or if you have electrical gremlins at play. Don’t believe I’ve ever heard of a starter suddenly not wanting to play ball as normally there are other reasons.
Pierre, do you think it’s possible to trace the positive and negative feeds to the starter without removing it? I would be trying to check for continuity on both the positive and negative wires at the starter before I bothered removing it.
I’ve just had an idea. When my starter was playing up (same symptoms as you) I learnt that to give it a solid tap with the wooden handle of a hammer or heavy screwdriver handle was enough to start it turning. This might work for you. With ignition on, press the starter and at the same time give the starter body a couple of solid taps and see if the starter motor spins. If it does, you probably need to remove and clean the starter armature.

2002 K1200RS Owned from new. Pacific Blue, Ohlins. 183,000kmís
2016 K1300R Black, Remus hexacone. 6000kmís
The family history
1951 AJS 500 single - my Dads
1916 Triumph Type H, Western front, France WW1 - my Grandads

Last edited by flyingkiwi; May 22nd, 2020 at 4:39 pm. Reason: Spelling
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old May 22nd, 2020, 7:42 am
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Positive to the starter is easily traceable.Comes out of the starter relay and goes to the "splitter" type connector between the fuse boxes.And then from the splitter to the starter.

So....applying battery positive with a jumper at that connector and the starter will spin if functioning.

And if your starter relay packs it in on the road,that is how you spin the K and start it.Hardwire the jumper in with a boat switch? I rode like that for a few weeks.
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Benelli 50cc at 14
Yamaha RD 200 at 16
Yamaha RD 350 at 17
Honda CB 750 F at 18
Honda V45 Sabre at 24
BMW K100RS at 27
BMW R100GS at 34
BMW K1200RS at 53
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