How much side-to-side play is ok? - K-Bikes.com - Excellence in Motion
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post #1 of 27 (permalink) Old Apr 7th, 2007, 12:49 pm Thread Starter
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How much side-to-side play is ok?

A "squirming" feeling comes over my bike once in a while. t happens on smooth roads, but kind of feels like when riding on concrete freeways with rain grooves. Tires are inflated properly, the preload is cranked as well as the rebound.
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Today I was looking around the bike and grabbed the rear wheel at the back and moved it side to side. There seems to be 1/8" to 1/4" of play. Top to bottom it seems solid.

What do you guys think?
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post #2 of 27 (permalink) Old Apr 7th, 2007, 1:37 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JCleary
A "squirming" feeling comes over my bike once in a while. t happens on smooth roads, but kind of feels like when riding on concrete freeways with rain grooves. Tires are inflated properly, the preload is cranked as well as the rebound.
11
Today I was looking around the bike and grabbed the rear wheel at the back and moved it side to side. There seems to be 1/8" to 1/4" of play. Top to bottom it seems solid.

What do you guys think?
I'm not sure. I have an '04 KRS w/ 32,000mi. and it has zero side to side play. Did you get a helper to feel if the play is at the swingarm bearings?

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post #3 of 27 (permalink) Old Apr 7th, 2007, 3:37 pm
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Just to be safe ...check lug nuts...is this something that just all of a sudden just happen...or has it just been getting worse.....hope you get to the root of the problem
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post #4 of 27 (permalink) Old Apr 7th, 2007, 8:26 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JCleary
A "squirming" feeling comes over my bike once in a while. t happens on smooth roads, but kind of feels like when riding on concrete freeways with rain grooves. Tires are inflated properly, the preload is cranked as well as the rebound.
11
Today I was looking around the bike and grabbed the rear wheel at the back and moved it side to side. There seems to be 1/8" to 1/4" of play. Top to bottom it seems solid.

What do you guys think?
If the lug nuts are all tight, I'd call CalBMW (650 996-1183 #2 for service) and tell Ryan you need someone to look at it and make a recommendation. That is unless you have a decent set of tools, a motorcycle stand, and good mechanic skills.



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post #5 of 27 (permalink) Old Apr 8th, 2007, 6:46 am
 
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Absolutey no play is acceptable. The pivot pins have to be heated and screwed out, then retorque left pivot pin to 8NM and retorque locknut to 105nm. A very easy job if you know what you are doing. If you don't heat it to proper temp you will destroy your $400 swingarm threads and you will be saying *&^&^&%%$
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post #6 of 27 (permalink) Old Apr 8th, 2007, 11:08 am Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scottfarm
Absolutey no play is acceptable. The pivot pins have to be heated and screwed out, then retorque left pivot pin to 8NM and retorque locknut to 105nm. A very easy job if you know what you are doing. If you don't heat it to proper temp you will destroy your $400 swingarm threads and you will be saying *&^&^&%%$
This is the kind of info I'm looking for...

I just picked up the bike from Cal BMW's service dept. The battery failed on a long ride last week. My buddy had to drive 100+ miles to rescue me with his trailer.

Another symptom I've noticed, and I didn't know if it was typical of these bikes, is that when leaned over in a fast sweeper (at a moderate to brisk pace) and powering out of a turn, I have a vibe similar to a driveline vibe on a rear wheel drive car.

Perhaps these two things are related?

I don't have a real garage, so no working on the bike for me. Back to Cal BMW, I guess.

Hopefully the extended warranty will cover the expense if there is indeed a problem.
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post #7 of 27 (permalink) Old Apr 8th, 2007, 12:50 pm
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A couple other potentials:

Might also be rear drive bearings. Not a common failure on the GT's (I can only recall of one being posted on these boards over the last three years), but very very common on LT's. IIRC, these can be diagnosed by side-to-side movement in the wheel and a vibration in the drive train.

The driveline vibration could also be the driveshaft u-joints. Failure of these could result in a rear-wheel lockup and likely crash. But I don't think this would result in side-to-side movement of the wheel.

Either way, I'd let the pro's look at this one.

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post #8 of 27 (permalink) Old Apr 11th, 2007, 6:07 pm
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If your detecting play in the rear wheel and it's not the wheel lug bolts......it's proably the differential pivot bearings. They must has zero slack in them. The tapered needle bearings actually have a positive pre-load crush on them of 62 inch/lbs.. The lock nut should then be torqued to 108 ft/lbs if I remember correctly. It is imperitive not to allow the 12mm allen head bearing preload adjustment to change when torquing the lock nut down. Allowing it to move will cause too much preload on the bearings which will bind the differential's movement when it articulates up and down in conjuction with the swing arm movement.

The last dumbass dealer that worked on my bike replaced the differential (under warrenty but it really didn't need it) and didn't get the torque setting correct. After about 1000 miles my bike developed a wierd squirmy feeling. Upon inspection, I found the rear wheel had about 1/4" play/slop in all directions and that was due to the fact the pivot bearings had no pre-load on them. I couldn't beleive how much the wheel was moving around and I was riding it at 100 mph at times! :wtf
Dumass mechanics. You have to do things yourself to get them right because it's YOUR ass that will be hurt when they screw things up. I plan to post a thread about this mechanic's screw up shortly.

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post #9 of 27 (permalink) Old Apr 11th, 2007, 7:31 pm Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluestreak
If your detecting play in the rear wheel and it's not the wheel lug bolts......it's proably the differential pivot bearings. They must has zero slack in them. The tapered needle bearings actually have a positive pre-load crush on them of 62 inch/lbs.. The lock nut should then be torqued to 108 ft/lbs if I remember correctly. It is imperitive not to allow the 12mm allen head bearing preload adjustment to change when torquing the lock nut down. Allowing it to move will cause too much preload on the bearings which will bind the differential's movement when it articulates up and down in conjuction with the swing arm movement.

The last dumbass dealer that worked on my bike replaced the differential (under warrenty but it really didn't need it) and didn't get the torque setting correct. After about 1000 miles my bike developed a wierd squirmy feeling. Upon inspection, I found the rear wheel had about 1/4" play/slop in all directions and that was due to the fact the pivot bearings had no pre-load on them. I couldn't beleive how much the wheel was moving around and I was riding it at 100 mph at times! :wtf
Dumass mechanics. You have to do things yourself to get them right because it's YOUR ass that will be hurt when they screw things up. I plan to post a thread about this mechanic's screw up shortly.
Wow, sounds scary. Your symptoms are similar to mine. I'll definitely have to have the service dept. check it out, as I don't have the tools or skills necessary. I can work on my DRZ, but the KRS is out of my league.
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post #10 of 27 (permalink) Old Apr 12th, 2007, 12:29 am
 
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No play is acceptable.
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