New bike gone bad: Cruise Control - K-Bikes.com - Excellence in Motion
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old May 4th, 2007, 12:31 pm Thread Starter
Rookie
 
kniewiderstand's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: New Brunswick, NJ, USA
Posts: 43
New bike gone bad: Cruise Control

Hello again.
I bought another 2002 K1200RS (new) last weekend while I look for forks for my old one(donor). Unfortunately, I'm having a problem with the new bike and I've got a sinking feeling.

I look to you knowledgable, kind folks for some ideas...

The cruise control diagnostic steps: Key On+SET, Release Set, Res, release Res, Off, On, Throttle close, etc. indicate an issue with the throttle close circuit.
The cables are good, the switch operates (used ohm meter), yet there is some issue.

I don't think it is the close switch. I elimated the switch from the test by jumping the connectotr directly, this process works on the donor but not the new bike.

I'm suspecting issues with the harness or worse as resistance is different between the throttle close connector and the cruse module connector.

* Are there any other tests for the throttle close circuit?
* Ideas appreciated before I keep sinking deeper and swap the Cruise module.

Thanks in advance.
Alex
kniewiderstand is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old May 4th, 2007, 12:40 pm
Strafist
 
grifscoots's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Outside New Braunfels, TX, USA
Posts: 2,544
I've found a lot of cruise problems to be a clutch switch out of adjustment. I'd try adjusting that booger before I went any further.

-=grif=-
What was that middle thang?
grifscoots is offline  
post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old May 4th, 2007, 2:13 pm Thread Starter
Rookie
 
kniewiderstand's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: New Brunswick, NJ, USA
Posts: 43
I declare Grif the best! The clutch switch booger was a bit loose.
Half a turn on the tiny screw in the switch housing and I'm throught the diagnostics.
You saved me from swapping the cruise module and reminded me things aren't alsway as they appear.
I've now got a floating feeling! Now a test ride.
Many thanks!
Alex
kniewiderstand is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old May 4th, 2007, 2:19 pm
Veteran
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: , SoCal., USA
Posts: 1,507
Quote:
Originally Posted by grifscoots
I've found a lot of cruise problems to be a clutch switch out of adjustment. I'd try adjusting that booger before I went any further.
Grif or Alex

How do you adjust that clutch switch? Just in case I ever have to do it.

Bruce C
'04 K1200RS Capri Blue(totaled)
2008 Triumph Sprint ST
brucecha is offline  
post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old May 4th, 2007, 2:28 pm Thread Starter
Rookie
 
kniewiderstand's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: New Brunswick, NJ, USA
Posts: 43
I dont think I adjusted the switch though bending the litte contacts would be an option.

Remove two screws on the underside of the clutch lever. One silver and one camouflaged black.
On the microswitch which is exposed, there is a tiny screw, I assume it just tightend switch to the housing, not really an "adjustment". I could be mistaken

Cheers.
kniewiderstand is offline  
post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old May 4th, 2007, 3:26 pm
Strafist
 
grifscoots's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Outside New Braunfels, TX, USA
Posts: 2,544
Quote:
Originally Posted by kniewiderstand
I dont think I adjusted the switch though bending the litte contacts would be an option.

Remove two screws on the underside of the clutch lever. One silver and one camouflaged black.
On the microswitch which is exposed, there is a tiny screw, I assume it just tightend switch to the housing, not really an "adjustment". I could be mistaken

Cheers.
You can loosen that tiny screw, if you can see the dayem thang. The microswitch will have a small amount of movement in two directions. Lined up right and not. Actually, if you can still hear, move the switch toward the clutch lever, or out, till you hear it click when using said lever.

When the cruise diagnostics drive you crazy and you can't figure out why the damn thang isn't working, always check the clutch microswitch.

-=grif=-
What was that middle thang?
grifscoots is offline  
post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old May 4th, 2007, 4:28 pm
Addict
 
carnadero's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Sillycon Valley, CA, USA
Posts: 647
Quote:
Originally Posted by kniewiderstand
The cruise control diagnostic steps: Key On+SET, Release Set, Res, release Res, Off, On, Throttle close, etc. indicate an issue with the throttle close circuit.
Now I'm curious - when you closed the throttle fully while in diagnostic mode, didn't the CC set light turn on and then extinguish when the throttle was released?

Since the problem seems to have been the clutch lever switch, it should have been indicated when the clutch lever was squeezed and released during the diagnostic procedure, not before (the throttle microswitch check precedes the clutch switch check).

Can anyone verify this?

Black 2002 K1200RS - "The Beast" (over 100k miles)

Last edited by carnadero; May 4th, 2007 at 5:15 pm.
carnadero is offline  
post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old May 4th, 2007, 5:37 pm Thread Starter
Rookie
 
kniewiderstand's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: New Brunswick, NJ, USA
Posts: 43
During diagnostics, the SET did NOT light in step 8, closing the throttle is supposed to turn the light ON. Nada.

I agree with your statement "it should have been indicated when the clutch lever was squeezed" during diagnostic step 10, but I never got there. The throttle close did not light the SET.

To satisfy my curiosity, I forced a clutch failure after fixing the clutch switch. I clutched the clutch during the diagnostics purposely causing a clutch failure. Unfortunately, the throttle close still didn't turn on the light, still stuck on step 8.

==========
For reference these are the steps I followed:

Follow in exact order
1. With the ignition switch OFF, switch on the cruise control switch.
2. Press and hold the set button to the SET position and switch ON the ignition switch. (LIGHT ON )
3. RELEASE the set button (LIGHT OFF )
4. Move to RESET position. (LIGHT ON )
5. RELEASE the set button (LIGHT OFF )
6. Switch OFF the cruise control switch. (LIGHT ON )
7. Switch the cruise control switch back ON. (LIGHT OFF )
8. Close throttle (LIGHT ON )
9. Release throttle. (LIGHT OFF )
10. Pull clutch lever (LIGHT ON ).
11. Release clutch lever. (LIGHT OFF )
12. Pull front brake lever (LIGHT ON ).
13. Release Lever (LIGHT OFF )
14. Push foot brake pedal (LIGHT ON ).
15. Hold for 5 seconds (LIGHT OFF ).
16. Release foot brake pedal (LIGHT ON ).
17. Rotate rear wheel. (LIGHT goes OFF and ON as wheel turns.)
18. Switch off ignition.
=============

It doesn't make sense to me either. I check it again later.

Alex
kniewiderstand is offline  
post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old Jul 23rd, 2007, 1:09 pm
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 92
CC quit

Had my cruise control quit on me.

Quick synopsis:

I bought a Brake! light at the moa national and installed it. Cruise worked fine.

Busted cruise cable, swapped both cruise and throttle cables. Cruise worked fine.

Washed the bike yesterday. Cruise went bye bye.

I switch it on and the red LED lights up. Get up to speed and push the set button. Nothing.

So I was reading this thread and am going to try the diagnostics tonight. What do each of the steps indicate? and what is this clutch lever switch?

thx in advance
chris
rasbutan is offline  
post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old Jul 23rd, 2007, 4:54 pm Thread Starter
Rookie
 
kniewiderstand's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: New Brunswick, NJ, USA
Posts: 43
I (incorrectly) assume each time you can progress to the next step (the SET light changed state) indicates the switch you just tested is functioning. The new state of the SET light is in parenthesis. This appears to be correct most of the time using this diagnostic. For instance, if you make it to step 12, squeeze the brake and the SET light doesn't go on, the brake switch in the lever needs attention.

There is a micro-switch inside the clutch handle housing. According to consensus, this is one of the most common failures and just needs re-adjusting. You can hear the switch operate in a quite garage. It is item #16, page titled "Handle Unit Left/Single Parts" on your favorite BMW fiche site.

I'm not sure of the original author but I keep this sheet under my seat for reference http://www.oilhead.com/pubs/BMWCheatSheet.pdf
kniewiderstand is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the K-Bikes.com - Excellence in Motion forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
GT demo ride clickr K12/1300GT (Next Gen) 14 Apr 28th, 2009 11:33 am
Cruise control...is it to blame? Nexus-6 K12/1300GT (Next Gen) 30 May 10th, 2007 10:49 pm
Cruise Control quit and rebooted rjc K12/1300GT (Next Gen) 6 Oct 29th, 2006 1:24 am
Integral ABS and ASC - New Riding Dynamic Control Systems for BMW Motorcycles SilverRT K12/1300GT (Next Gen) 1 Jul 14th, 2006 3:09 pm
long story about last years ride KbikeLarry Ride Tales 0 Jun 27th, 2006 10:14 am

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome