synthetic at 48K? - K-Bikes.com - Excellence in Motion
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post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old May 9th, 2007, 11:56 am Thread Starter
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synthetic at 48K?

I've been a holdout for 3K dino oil/filter changes at home....with synthetic in tran and rear drive........what's the thinking about changing to engine synthetic at this late mileage??
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post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old May 9th, 2007, 12:40 pm
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Originally Posted by BrianF
I've been a holdout for 3K dino oil/filter changes at home....with synthetic in tran and rear drive........what's the thinking about changing to engine synthetic at this late mileage??
I am doing the same engine schedule as you are @33K, but also change the trans.&rear drive every 3K with Mobil1 75w/90. I intend to continue with this schedule and can see no benefit to changing it or switching to synthetic motor oil.

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post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old May 9th, 2007, 1:33 pm
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Originally Posted by brucecha
I am doing the same engine schedule as you are @33K, but also change the trans.&rear drive every 3K with Mobil1 75w/90. I intend to continue with this schedule and can see no benefit to changing it or switching to synthetic motor oil.

Really... Trans and drive every 3000? That seems kinna often. I know these bikes have rear seal failures, but do the trans / rear drives go out often enough to warrant that frequency?

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post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old May 9th, 2007, 1:37 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brucecha
I am doing the same engine schedule as you are @33K, but also change the trans.&rear drive every 3K with Mobil1 75w/90. I intend to continue with this schedule and can see no benefit to changing it or switching to synthetic motor oil.
What? Tranny and rear drive fluid changes every 3000 miles?

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post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old May 9th, 2007, 2:03 pm
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Originally Posted by DaveTheAffable
Really... Trans and drive every 3000? That seems kinna often. I know these bikes have rear seal failures, but do the trans / rear drives go out often enough to warrant that frequency?

Dave

I know it sounds anal, but what the hell it's only $8.00 for the oil.

I once had an '85 K100RT that I bought CHEAP because the trans. was really loud on deceleration. I just kept changing the oil(dino) every 1,000mi. or so and it got nice and quiet. Then I switched it to Mobil 1 and the 3K routine, I rode that bike for an additional 40,000mi. and never had a problem with it.

Like I said, it works for me.

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post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old May 9th, 2007, 2:24 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brucecha
...but also change the trans.&rear drive every 3K with Mobil1 75w/90.
Are you serious? 3K engine oil changes are understandable, but FD and trans oil (where the trans doesn't share engine oil) doesn't get contaminated in the same way, so changing them at 3K only serves to unnecessarily lighten your wallet on a more frequent basis. Witness the appearance of the oil as it flows out even at 6K - typically still fairly transparent, as opposed to the contaminant-laden, almost-opaque appearance of engine oil after it's been in for even a short amount of time.

But if this level of care is something you can afford and gives you more peace of mind as a result, there's no arguments here.

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post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old May 9th, 2007, 6:21 pm
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I'm definitely for engine oil on dyno change at 3K. I've got no problems with tranny and drive oil changes at 3K either on the basis the oil capacities are small, easy to change and you might feel there are fewer metal particles grinding away at oil seals. Personally I'd go with the tranny and drive oil changes at 6K with engine oil every 3K - that's more than most would do. Although I'd like to see some method for aggresive flushing. Mostly becauses when I've stripped tranni boxes, metal fragments lie in corners and don't pour out with the oil. Since there are no oil pumps and filters I think a decent magnetic 'catcher' in the drain plugs is probably the way to go as well.

I think the tranni and FD should be treated different to the motor, since metal fragments don't get blocked by a filter and wearing parts are in a smaller volume of oil. The non-synchro dog tooth boxes on our transmissions produces more metal in the oil. It may be just a guess, but I'd say particle contamination in oil, rather than lubricant breakdown, causes shaft seals to fail early.



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post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old May 10th, 2007, 9:27 am Thread Starter
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sorry to generate unnecessary , but interesting, responses to my mis stated lube changes.....I should have said 3K engine dino oil changes; and that when I change at 6 or 12k the trans and rear drive I use synthetic..........so was wondering about the use of synthetic in the engine also..........:-(

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post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old May 10th, 2007, 9:32 am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrianF
...so was wondering about the use of synthetic in the engine also......
Why not give it a whirl? I don't see how it would hurt.

As a matter of fact, on my next oil change, I'm contemplating giving that Rotella-T stuff at Wal Mart a try.

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post #10 of 16 (permalink) Old May 10th, 2007, 9:49 am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrianF
..........so was wondering about the use of synthetic in the engine also..........:-(

Brian
General thought is that synthetic after 12k is fine. I've been using synthetic since 24k (I'm at 61k now). There is some concern that synthetic may seep past the rear main seal easier. I did lose the rear seal in the same year after switching to synthetic, but can't say there's a direct correlation, could be coincidence and there are other contributing factors, like the dealer overfilling an oil change. We switched back to dino, but it didn't matter. We replaced the seals and I've been on synthetic ever since.

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