Bearing Replacement? What say you?? - K-Bikes.com - Excellence in Motion
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post #1 of 26 (permalink) Old May 29th, 2007, 7:37 am Thread Starter
 
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Bearing Replacement? What say you??

So I was on my way home from work last week and noticed a major rattle coming from the back end of the bike. I pulled it into the garage, put it on the center stand, and rotated the back tire by hand. Something felt like it was rubbing. I figured it was the brakes. I pulled the tire and brake caliper. Brakes are fine. Rotated the brake disc, and felt the same rubbing.
After good long string of curse words that would make a sailor blush, I got my Clymer manual out. I reviewed everything in the drive mechanism. To me, it looks like(and now feels like) set of bearings have gone kaput. As you rotate the disc very slowly, you can feel where the problem bearing is caching.

So, now the 5 million dollar question. Has anyone undertaken this challenge in the past? If so, have you been successful?

I'd like to try it, but it requires a couple of specialty tools that I don't have. I don't want to spend the money on the tools if this is over my head.

What say you?
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post #2 of 26 (permalink) Old May 29th, 2007, 10:42 am
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How many miles on the bike? Could it be a u-joint?

Bruce C
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post #3 of 26 (permalink) Old May 29th, 2007, 10:54 am Thread Starter
 
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25k on the clock.

U joint? In the final drive?
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post #4 of 26 (permalink) Old May 29th, 2007, 12:35 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rasbutan
As you rotate the disc very slowly, you can feel where the problem bearing is caching.
When you say "caching", do you mean that you feel a rough spot? Or does it really stick?

Hint: it would help immensely if you can get a hold of a mechanic's stethoscope, as it can determine the origin of an unusual sound fairly easily and quickly. And pitted bearings will make a noise.

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post #5 of 26 (permalink) Old May 29th, 2007, 1:17 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rasbutan
25k on the clock.

U joint? In the final drive?

I thought you meant that it was "binding". But at only 25K it shouldn't be either one!

I hope it's something simple.

Bruce C
'04 K1200RS Capri Blue(totaled)
2008 Triumph Sprint ST
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post #6 of 26 (permalink) Old May 29th, 2007, 4:16 pm Thread Starter
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carnadero
When you say "caching", do you mean that you feel a rough spot? Or does it really stick?

Hint: it would help immensely if you can get a hold of a mechanic's stethoscope, as it can determine the origin of an unusual sound fairly easily and quickly. And pitted bearings will make a noise.
That was supposed to be 'catching'

It's not like the wheel freely rotates 270 degrees and then stops. You can feel it 'clicking' as you spin the tire, but the clicking isn't consistent like the old baseball card in the spokes trick on a bicycle.

Where does one get a mechanics stethoscope?
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post #7 of 26 (permalink) Old May 29th, 2007, 5:39 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rasbutan
... <snip> ...
Where does one get a mechanics stethoscope?
STICK IT IN YOUR EAR!

Ya don't need one of those fancy smancy tools! Git yerself a hilly-billy stethoscope: a long screwdriver. It don't matter if'n itsa flat or Phillips. Stick the metal end on the area you are a-'vestigatin' and hold the handle end against yer ear. Move the metal end around and you can get an idea of where the noise is a-comin' from. The noise moves along solid stuff much more efficiently, and thus you can get a feel fer where the bike is a-ailin'

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post #8 of 26 (permalink) Old May 29th, 2007, 5:45 pm
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I'm starting mine this week at 36K. Might sound like a horror scenario, but once the large bearing cage starts breaking up, metal bits get in the gears and tear away at the seals then you get oil leaks, after the oil has leaked out if you didn't notice, the drive expires big time. The sooner you deal with it the better are your chances.

Dealing with the large bearing, seal and shimming for pre-load wheel side shouldn't be too difficult BUT anything around the pinion or seals is. If you've got no oil in the drive boot then you've got good pinion and transmission seals. If there is any oil there (like mine!), then you've got to work out if it's coming from the pinion or back down from the transmission. Mines coming from the tranni, so I'm not expecting to go as far as removing the pinion.

You should grasp the wheel and check for play, also drain the oil and see what's in it. I can hear my rear bearing 'rumbling' when the bike is freewheeling with the clutch in. This is pretty tricky work and has to be done right. Setting up the shimming needs some tools which I think I can work around but I wouldn't recommend the job if you haven't done much of this work. If you need to save money, you could remove the rear drive and take it to the stealer to be fixed. If you aren't confident with that operation or don't know what a mechanics stethoscope is then I'd leave everything to them. Incidentally, even when you have a stethoscope you need to have the skills to make the diagnosis from what you hear. I use a guitar contact microphone and make recordings on my old walkman.



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post #9 of 26 (permalink) Old May 29th, 2007, 9:23 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rasbutan
Where does one get a mechanics stethoscope?
Here's one place.

Matter of fact, if you plug the Lisle part number into any decent search engine, you'll probably get a ton of results that can be picked over for the best deal.

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post #10 of 26 (permalink) Old May 30th, 2007, 2:30 pm Thread Starter
 
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Took a ride to my dealer on the GS over lunch today. I described the 'symptoms' that I was experiencing and before I could finish he was telling me it was the final drive bearings. He told me if I wanted to save some money, to pull the final drive off and bring it in for repair. Otherwise they can do it.

So, do I load it up on the trailer, take it down and pay the extra money? Or, buy a heat gun and 30mm socket, attempt to take it off, and bring just the unit in?

What say you!?

BTW...I love this forum!!!
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