How to remove '03 GT screen and tank? - K-Bikes.com - Excellence in Motion
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old Jun 4th, 2007, 3:14 pm Thread Starter
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Question How to remove '03 GT screen and tank?

Hi all,

I just got my Laminar Lip delivered, and need to install it indoors as the temperature outside is too low. How do I take the screen off?

Also, I need to get the tank off to access some wiring for the alarm. It's not obvious to me how it comes off - do I need to remove more of the fairing?

Thanks!

Ian
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old Jun 4th, 2007, 6:14 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by imfinlay
Hi all,

I just got my Laminar Lip delivered, and need to install it indoors as the temperature outside is too low. How do I take the screen off?
Windscreen is a joy to remove. It's held with four plastic "expansion" plugs that need to have the center pushed out. One side of the plug is domed, the other is domed with four slots. You need to push the center pin (about 1/8" in diameter) toward the dome without the slots. Then you can push the main plug out in that same direction. Suckers are fast moving, so be ready for them to jump and run for the nearest hiding place. On the plastic ears of the windscreen (mount points) there are some off-set inserts (also black, also damned good at finding hiding places) that seem to stay in the windscreen, but easily come out. Then the screen can come indoors.
Having said all that, it might be just as time-consuming to fit the lip with the windscreen on the bike as-is
Quote:
Originally Posted by imfinlay
Also, I need to get the tank off to access some wiring for the alarm. It's not obvious to me how it comes off - do I need to remove more of the fairing?
Well to get the tank off you need the side panels off as well as the top piece going over the tank. Thing is, you need to remove all the front fairing pieces to get the side ones off. Also, mind the length of the screws removed. Longer ones are for the locations that have two plastic pieces the screw holds in place. Then it's two bolts in the rear of the tank that come out, as well as assorted drain tubes and wiring on the right side of the bike. There are two quick-disconnects (at least on the newer bikes) that allow you to disconnect the fuel supply and return lines. Fuel supply line is definately under pressure, so you may get a couple of drops; just be prepared. Lift up the rear and pull back. Good idea to get as much fuel out of the bike before hand. You may need to loosen the front bolts for the tank, but they don't have to be removed.

Quote:
Originally Posted by imfinlay
Thanks!

Ian
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old Jun 4th, 2007, 6:17 pm
 
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The windscreen is held on by plastic 'rivets' that will need to be pushed out of thier button holders to release the windcsreen from its holder arms... its kind of a pain... do you really need to remove it to install a laminar lip? If not, I wouldn't go at it unless I really had to. If so, the best way I found to remove the windscreen can be found here: (link compliments of Pirate's Lair) http://gunsmoke.com/motorcycling/k12...een/index.html It shows photos of the previous gen K1100RS, but the principle is the same... btw I modified the instructions to include using a 3mm T-handles allen wrench to first push on the backside of the 'rivets' to get them started so the button's 'fingers' could move when pushed by the socket... wrap everything, repeat, wrap everything in masking tape or shop towels to prevent the inadvertent slip and scratch of your soft and expensive windscreen....

As for the tank removal, all of the front fairing pieces must come off... nose cowl, wings, both side panels, lower cowl, and don't forget about the one screw holding down the center tank panel at the front near the steering head when removing the tank... also don't even think about trying to move the side panels w/o the black plastic protector (found in your toolkit) covering the sharp edge of the front cowling frame strut(s)... those side panels are big bux $$$$ to replace.
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old Jun 4th, 2007, 6:18 pm
 
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Ray beat me to it!!!!
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old Jun 4th, 2007, 8:31 pm
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Closely inspect the Quick-Disconnects when you remove the tank, and after you re-install it. They are made of plastics are are prone to failure. Inspect the o-rings in them as well... QD failure can leave you stranded at best, and barbecued at worst.

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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old Jun 5th, 2007, 4:58 am
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while u are at it

while the tank is off, install a new fuel filter in the fuel cell. mileage and pep will improve and u only have to go in there every 24k miles. kill 2 birds with one stone.
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old Jun 5th, 2007, 5:06 am Thread Starter
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Wow, thanks!

The weather has perked up a bit, but it drops overnight below the 70 degrees recommended for curing the 3M adhesive. Maybe I'll do it in the morning and leave the bike in the sun. I was thinking of drilling the screen to attach the lip - I don't tend to ride over 90mph, and that not very often, so can I trust the 3M stuff?

I think I'll leave the tank on until I treat myself to a satnav and want to wire it in!

You guys are great!
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old Jun 5th, 2007, 9:54 am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by imfinlay
Wow, thanks!

... I don't tend to ride over 90mph, and that not very often, ...

...
Um, I said something like that, once upon a time... I guess I shoulda got a 650 if that were the intent

BTW, when you do remove the tank, go the extra distance and replace the plastic QD's with metal ones. The part numbers and ordering information are on several threads on this forum. This failure has been reported several times, and I've witnessed it personally. I haven't replaced mine yet, but carry a metal set with me, just in case.


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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old Jun 5th, 2007, 5:42 pm
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The 3M adhesive works just fine. I've been over 100mph w/ a laminar lip w/o a problem on my RS. I did install in the perfect conditions, so the adhesive stuck well. You can see evidence of stress on the dots, but they held. Hey, what can I do? I was trying to keep up w/ a K12S... No problem in the twisties but he got me on the straights.

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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old Jun 12th, 2007, 12:08 am
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Hello Ian, I fixed my Laminar LIP a few days ago. But no way did I try to remove the screen first. I just read the instructions and it was fitted in less than 10 minutes. The temperature was "just" 70F and I was out giving it a test within 10 minutes of fitting it.

Initial thoughts are that, YES it works. However I still (at 5' 11") have to have the screen in its top position. But yes, it's good in so far as it significantly reduced the sheer "weight" of wind noise hitting my helmet.

I have since reduced the volume on my Garmin 2720 from 60% to 50%.

John I. Stephen - Tunbridge Wells, Kent, UK
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