Wheel removal - K-Bikes.com - Excellence in Motion
 
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old Apr 6th, 2008, 9:52 am Thread Starter
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Wheel removal

I'm gonna be mounting a new set of PR2's next week and was wondering if anyone had any tips or words of wisdom about removing the wheels. I read the manual and the procedure seems easy enough, but I thought that I would ask here first. I checked in the HoW, and the only thing that I could find is a tip from Joe about the spark plug socket.
I don't have a pitbull, so I figured that I would block the front end under the headers.
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old Apr 6th, 2008, 10:19 am
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This may not apply to the GT, but it probably does since it applies to the KS. It was suggested somewhere on the net that before you remove the calipers from the rotors, you may want to place a strip of tape on the edge of the fairing. When you gently rock the caliper off the rotor there is a chanve that you could bump the fairing and chip it. Also, be very careful NOT to bump the ABS sensor. You may have to get it reset if you do.

07 BMW K1200 S (cosmic blue/titan silver)
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old Apr 6th, 2008, 10:32 am Thread Starter
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Thanks, I'll keep that in mind. I may be wrong but I think the book said to put the tape on the wheels, but I'll check to make sure.
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old Apr 6th, 2008, 10:49 am
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Tips...

#1: Have some duct tape handy.. tear off a couple of 8" strips and place them on the front wheel so when you slide the caliper back and off, you won't scratch the wheel.

#2. Once the calipers are off the carrier they'll just flop around and/or hang down.. I take a bungee, wrap it around the hanging caliper with the other end attached to the handlebar or clutch/brake levers. This will effectively pull it out of the way and keep it from banging the fairing. If in doubt.. put some duct tape on the fairing, too..

#3. Check your bearings while you have your wheel off..Like a prostate exam, you can tell if they are OK by just shoving your finger in there and gleefully feeling around. I mention this as I changed a tire last week and at 9000 miles the bearings were shot...They actually fell out and rolled away... It was so bad that my wheel was ruined by the wear. Could have been disastrous if I had ridden another 100 miles.. It looks like BMW isn't gonna replace it either.. Geezz... I'm gonna be out over $650...

Hope this helps..If you run into any mid-change probs... give me a shout..

Jerry D. Finley ("Danger" is my middle name)
"I speed, therefore I am. "

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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old Apr 6th, 2008, 11:25 am
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I have the Pitbull, but this may be of some use to you: don't torque the brake calipers till you let the bike down. Scared the shit out of me when the bike crashed off the Pitbull. It didn't fall over, but I've learned not to be lazy on this one.

Also, let the air out of your rear tire before jacking the front of the bike up. If you accidentally go too far you could jack the bike off of the centerstand and letting the air out gives you extra room.

-=grif=-
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old Apr 6th, 2008, 11:33 am
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and I should mention that lifting a GT or K1200S or R with a FRONT Pit Bull WITHOUT using a Rear Pit Bill is VERY dangerous ... I would NEVER do it.. I did early on and the bike fell twice.. fortunately while someone was there to catch it..

Letting the air out may help... but I still wouldn't risk it... but that's just me..

Quote:
Originally Posted by grifscoots
I have the Pitbull, but this may be of some use to you: don't torque the brake calipers till you let the bike down. Scared the shit out of me when the bike crashed off the Pitbull. It didn't fall over, but I've learned not to be lazy on this one.

Also, let the air out of your rear tire before jacking the front of the bike up. If you accidentally go too far you could jack the bike off of the centerstand and letting the air out gives you extra room.
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old Apr 6th, 2008, 1:06 pm
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Man, I've never had the trouble you guys are having changing tires.

The rear is a piece of cake, once you loosen the bolt holding the muffler near the footrest and swing it to the other side of the footrest bracket.

For the front, I use a simple scissors car jack underneath the pipes with a piece of wood for support. Remove the front half of the fender then lift just enough to clear the tire from the ground. I also don't put tape on the rims, as I find that moving the calipers out slowly and carefully works fine.

I have used a pit bull stand on the front before, but didn't find that it added all that much based on what it cost and how much room it takes to store it.

Just take your time and do the job well and it'll all be fine.

Ken
Pacific NorthWet
'13 Dark Graphite Metallic K16GTLD, 24K miles and counting...
'09 Magnesium Beige Metallic K13GT, 60K miles miles and counting...
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old Apr 6th, 2008, 7:39 pm Thread Starter
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Thanks for all the replies. Good recommendations all!

Grif, I was just getting ready to ask how much to raise the front. Letting air out of the rear makes sense, but I prolly wouldn't have thought of it. I damn sure don't want to drop it.

I dropped it twice taking it off the center-stand, and couldn't figure out what I was doing wrong for the longest. I even had Gary and Peter show me how to do it and as soon as I got it home, I dropped it again. The bike didn't hit the ground either time, just fell into the garage wall. I finally figured it out, and I learned that you never take a bike off the center stand with the front wheel turned and the bike in GEAR without pulling in the clutch. It acts just like a bike at slow speed when you grab handful of front brake with the wheel turned, down she goes.
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old Apr 9th, 2008, 8:04 am
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I found the best way to take the front wheel off was to fit a cheap ground anchor onto the garage floor and then tie a ratchet strap between the anchor and the rear rack. Very stable and I have had both wheels off at the same time.

Also with a Remus end can, the exhaust is smaller and all the bolts can all be removed without swinging the exhaust out of the way.

Tom
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old Apr 9th, 2008, 8:33 am Thread Starter
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I changed both tires last night, and I'll have to say that it was much easier than the owners manual lets on. I started at 7:00 PM and was completely done with both tires, mounted, balanced, and wheels reinstalled on bike by 10:00. Once again, thanks for the tips.
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