Change your Diff Oil! - K-Bikes.com - Excellence in Motion
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post #1 of 21 (permalink) Old Jun 14th, 2008, 6:05 pm Thread Starter
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Change your Diff Oil!

Hey there,

I don't know if this has been spoken about in the recent past, but here it goes....If you have 12k miles or more on your GT and you have not replaced the oil in your differential yet, you need too. I had my oil changed per BMW at 600-1000 miles. It is supposed to be a one time thing. I decided to keep up the 04s change interval of every 12k miles. So while i had the rims off for new tires i decided to tackle it myself. At 12k miles it was BLACK! I used the BMW branded oil (Spectro), it is red because I could not find Castrol SAF-XO (recommended in RepRom) anywhere in Cen Cal. The change procedure has been explained in many forums and are identical to what is prescribed in the RepRom. Very easy. It looks like i wear out tires every 6k miles so i will change it again a 6k miles to see if it is black again. If not, then every 12k no matter what.
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post #2 of 21 (permalink) Old Jun 14th, 2008, 10:15 pm
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Yeppir, also, if you don't want to drop the dif, you can suck the oil out. Much easier.

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post #3 of 21 (permalink) Old Jun 14th, 2008, 10:29 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ccii42104
Hey there,

I don't know if this has been spoken about in the recent past, but here it goes....If you have 12k miles or more on your GT and you have not replaced the oil in your differential yet, you need too. I had my oil changed per BMW at 600-1000 miles. It is supposed to be a one time thing. I decided to keep up the 04s change interval of every 12k miles. So while i had the rims off for new tires i decided to tackle it myself. At 12k miles it was BLACK! I used the BMW branded oil (Spectro), it is red because I could not find Castrol SAF-XO (recommended in RepRom) anywhere in Cen Cal. The change procedure has been explained in many forums and are identical to what is prescribed in the RepRom. Very easy. It looks like i wear out tires every 6k miles so i will change it again a 6k miles to see if it is black again. If not, then every 12k no matter what.
I dont get this guys. Im not suggesting what youre saying isnt right because there is plenty of evidence to support what youre saying but ive never heard of gearbox or diferential oil oxidising before.
Unlike engine oil there is minimal to no heat and no contaminants to degrade the oil. Can someone tell me what causes the diff oil on these bikes to oxidise and degrade in the way that it seems to be???????

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post #4 of 21 (permalink) Old Jun 15th, 2008, 6:40 am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dadicool59
I dont get this guys. Im not suggesting what youre saying isnt right because there is plenty of evidence to support what youre saying but ive never heard of gearbox or diferential oil oxidising before.
Unlike engine oil there is minimal to no heat and no contaminants to degrade the oil. Can someone tell me what causes the diff oil on these bikes to oxidise and degrade in the way that it seems to be???????
When the dif is new it will crunch up the oil and make it black as it breaks in (prolly assembly grease, too). We had a tech session at my house yesterday and the difs on bikes with 40thou on up were coming out clear oil.

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post #5 of 21 (permalink) Old Jun 15th, 2008, 9:04 am
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Yup, just had mine done at about 20k. I do it every time I do the oil. It has gotten much clearer than the first few times. Run synthetic oil, go through tires every 6000 miles or so and do everything at once. Tires, oil and diff. Makes life pretty simple and my bike is happy!

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post #6 of 21 (permalink) Old Jun 15th, 2008, 1:08 pm
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Did my own at 700 miles along with the engine oil.
no big deal... sorta fun.

Gotta love wrenching on a brand new $22,000.00 vehicle.

Let the dealer plug it into the computer for $70.00 to complete the 600 mile service.

Drive shaft splines were VERY dry.
I Honda Molyed 'em but good.

Final drive gear oil was quite dirty. Looked... graphitey for lack of a better term.
Used Spectro 75-90 Full synthetic.

Still need a few torque specs to complete the job, but nobody's answering.

Buttoned her back up and been riding with no problems. Other than that I apparently got some FD fluid on my brake rotor. Whhooo Nelllly!!! Wiped it off a few times with solvent. Seems fine now.

Dmilan

Last edited by DMilan; Jun 15th, 2008 at 1:17 pm.
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post #7 of 21 (permalink) Old Jun 15th, 2008, 4:46 pm
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final drive fluid change

I was surprised how dry the splines were on my RT when I did my final drive fluid change at 12K miles. They were the same way at 24K miles as well. I greased them up but good and of course changed the FD fluid. Piece of cake man. Have a good one guys.

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post #8 of 21 (permalink) Old Jun 15th, 2008, 5:51 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DMilan
Let the dealer plug it into the computer for $70.00 to complete the 600 mile service.
For about $250 you can get GS 911. Fun stuff.

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post #9 of 21 (permalink) Old Jun 19th, 2008, 5:51 am
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Thanks for the responses guys but still no answer to WHY? we should have to change the FD oil. As previously questioned, gearbox or differential oil should not degrade or oxidise like engine oil does.
Grifscoots, what the hell does crunch up the oil mean?
I have had cars that I have done 70-80000 miles in and never had to touch the gearbox or diff oil.
A couple of you have said that post 600 mile oil drops are coming out clean, does this not then suggest that it is unnesesary.

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07 R1200GSA Sold
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86 K100RS Sold
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Last edited by Dadicool59; Jun 19th, 2008 at 6:03 am.
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post #10 of 21 (permalink) Old Jun 19th, 2008, 7:08 am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dadicool59
Thanks for the responses guys but still no answer to WHY? we should have to change the FD oil. As previously questioned, gearbox or differential oil should not degrade or oxidise like engine oil does.
Grifscoots, what the hell does crunch up the oil mean?
I have had cars that I have done 70-80000 miles in and never had to touch the gearbox or diff oil.
A couple of you have said that post 600 mile oil drops are coming out clean, does this not then suggest that it is unnesesary.
Can't speak for Griff, but I'm pretty sure that he meant that the new metal, gears, bearings, shims, whatever else, inside the final drive, machine themselves down a bit. Little pieces of metal turnings, shavings, chunks, that are formed as the new parts settle into each other.

You'll want to get those contaminants out of there. Especially with some evidence of final drive failures out there with this design.

Just did my 700 mile service on my '08 GT. The final drive fluid that I drained out was DEFINATELY DIRTY. Which is to say, contained lots of fine particles. Looked GRAPHITEY for lack of a better word. The heavy particles at the bottom were the last to drain from my collection pan into my recycling jug. That stuff was quite thick. Should have put a magnet in the sludge, but it didn't dawn on me to do so at the time.

Good point about the car tranny and differentials though.

In, what seems like another life, I worked at an auto junkyard. Hmmm. Automotive dismantling and recycling center. Anyway. Very few folks back then ever changed their differential or tranny lube as a maintenance item. The stuff that came out looked like tar. And the differentials and manual trannys almost never broke.

DMilan

Last edited by DMilan; Jun 19th, 2008 at 7:17 am.
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