How to tie down a KGT? Charging. Tire chg - K-Bikes.com - Excellence in Motion
 
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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old Jul 3rd, 2008, 1:04 pm Thread Starter
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Location: Milton, Ontario, Canada
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How to tie down a KGT? Charging. Tire chg

Just curious as to how one ties down a KGT? Before anyone gets on the trailering bandwagon, the question arises as to when you must lash the bike down on in a ferry
hold. I have a helibar so I can see why they don't want you to use your bars
as an anchor point. The only option I see is around the lower portion of the
front forks but there isn't much leverage there.

Anyone have experience tying down their KGT either on a ferry or trailer? Ideas?
It seems I take a ferry crossing at least once per year, last year it was 4 times.


Misc other questions:

- my charge/low battery warning light remains lit for 10-20 secs after every start.
Bike is 4 weeks old and ridden often (ie its not sitting for long periods), I have 8K on it already. Anyone else experience that?

- will need to change tires soon and would like to have BOTH wheels off
at the same time to take to my tire shop. I have a motorcycle jack but its
not usable on this bike. I figure the center stand plus a jack near the front would
hold it up to get both wheels off, just curious as to how stable it is with both wheels off.


- I find the side stand just awful, too small, and since it doesn't lock into place
you MUST leave it in gear to park or risk it rolling off the stand, just be forewarned
& don't ask!


regards
Bob
2008 KGT
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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old Jul 3rd, 2008, 6:56 pm
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Location: Sharpsburg, MD, USA
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I am going to trailer my KGT to my folks in a week, I am gonna use a Canyon Dancer on the handlebars to secure it to the trailer, I would ride but the whole family is going, the wife myself and 2 dogs, cats are staying home.

I have had both wheels off the bike by balancing on the center stand with the rear of the bike tethered to my boat trailer, thus keeping the front in the air. I removed the rear first and used ratchet strap to secure the bike.

I always keep the bike in gear when sidestand parking, it is the ONLY parking brake on the bike, I like the sidestand, I always have a small piece aluminum sheet metal and a plastic disc for the stand foot to rest on if needed, some think it leans too much, my VFR didnt lean enough and was always at risk of falling away from the sidestand on any road that wasnt dead flat.

I dont think my batt light stays lit as long as yours
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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old Jul 3rd, 2008, 8:35 pm
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Location: , NJ, USA
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Just did 850 miles in the last 2 days in the Catskills and noticed my battery light come on after almost every start up for about 5 seconds. Kind of un-nerving when you are so far away from everything. Also had the check engine light flash a few times at start up and was always afraid that the dreaded ignition key antennae would fail and leave me stranded before I take it to the dealer for its replacement at the end of this month. I also had to reset my throttle sensor once as the bike was getting really difficult to drive smoothly. Before resetting, the bike would not immediately slow down when I reduced the throttle and there was no smooth transition between throttle on and off, it was very jerky. I also could not get the cruise control to cancel. Front brake would not cancel it, rear brake would not cancel it and shutting off the cruise control did not cancel it for about 5 seconds, I was beginning to wonder what to do next short of killing the engine. All this with 4000 miles on the bike... Hope things improve after my visit to the dealer later this month to fix brake lining idiot light, juttering clutch when hot, and a few other annoyances..

Gary
2007 K1200GT
Dark Graphite Grey
New Jersey-Don't Laugh!
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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old Jul 6th, 2008, 8:53 pm
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The Canyon Dancer is not recommended for the BMW K12GT front suspension, because it does not compress like telescopic forks. Instead you need to use a pair of 18" sheepskin tie downs (http://www.kendonusa.com/accessories_-all.htm) around and through the upper forks from each side. The front wheel should also be in a chock like those on the Kendon trailers.

The safest way to have both wheels off at the same time is a combination of center stand and front end suspended from the garage ceiling/roof structure.
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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old Jul 7th, 2008, 10:06 am
 
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Been taking my GT across to mainland Europe from the Uk since I had it. The standard technique used by the majority of the ferry companies is to put a cushion on the riders seat and then throw a strap across this area and attach the strap to the deck either side of the bike and tighten. They do this for all bikes whether it's on the side or centre stand. Some also chock the rear wheel.

So far I'm not aware of any problems and I've traversed the Bay of Biscay a couple of times in really bad conditions.

Using the Euro Tunnel you simply ride on and park the bike on the side stand for the 35 min journey!

I've even had my bike previous K1200RS on the French motor rail system. Here you ride on to the standard car trailer and sit astride the bike whilst they tie it down with web strapping with the suspension compressed. It seemed very "Heath Robinson" but again no ill effects.
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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old Jul 7th, 2008, 11:49 am
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Canyon Dancer

Quote:
Originally Posted by LoanArranger
The Canyon Dancer is not recommended for the BMW K12GT front suspension, because it does not compress like telescopic forks. Instead you need to use a pair of 18" sheepskin tie downs... around and through the upper forks from each side. The front wheel should also be in a chock like those on the Kendon trailers
LoanArranger is correct. I recommend you pay close attention to his caution about the Canyon Dancer and don't use them. They'll bend or damage your handlebars or their supports with just ordinary tightening force applied. Yes, normal tiedowns can only be attached to the front forks just above the fender and so leverage is very limited. Use the sheepskins to allow a higher attachment point and avoid body damage.
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