R&G Frame Sliders - K-Bikes.com - Excellence in Motion
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post #1 of 18 (permalink) Old Mar 4th, 2009, 6:12 pm Thread Starter
DrD
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R&G Frame Sliders

[I used the search tool and I couldn't find a thread that answered my questions. Honest. ]

How difficult is the installation of these frame sliders? The directions on PL don't look involved. OTOH, I have installed frame sliders on a SV650 and that was simple; when I installed a set on a ZX6R, that was a royal PITA.

I am concerned with the ease or difficulty of removing the factory bolts. Do they come out with reasonable torque, or do they require heating and cussing?

When in doubt, apply more throttle.
2008 K1200GT, Dark Graphite, "#4, the Dancing Hippo"
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post #2 of 18 (permalink) Old Mar 4th, 2009, 8:59 pm
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Well now Good Dr, suppose I'll be one of the few fielding this question as I finally put on a set of these R&G Racing sliders just the other weekend - after I dropped the bike of course and had to pay out the nose to have my Tupperware fixed, sanded, painted, and shot with clear. Got 'em from my buddy Jerry over at Pirates' Lair as well. He saved my ass big time after I made a critical error that I'll cover in a moment.

To answer your question from the get-go, the installation of the sliders is pretty darn easy as most of the maintenance items are on the GT. It's just a damn fun bike to work on. Having said that, I ran in to a few "gotchas" with my particular install. I offered to do a similar write-up for Jerry to post on his web site that would act as ancillary instructions to the one page documentation that comes with the R&G product.

First thing missing from the R&G instructions is an obvious one. After you remove the side panel (Tupperware) there's a odd shaped piece of black styrofoam covering the engine bolts. No news flash here but you gotta take that off to get to the engine bolt in question. More on the black styrofoam later, too.

The factory engine bolts come out extremely easy with no heating, knuckle busting, or use of a pry bar. Where I got in to trouble was torquing down the replacement bolts from the kit. Since I didn't have a suitable 22mm open end/box end wrench or socket, I used much too large a tool and snapped the R&G bolt well inside the engine. Can you say dumb ass? To make matters worse it was a Sunday but as mentioned above, Jerry saved the day. We must have traded 4 or 5 emails and Monday afternoon a replacement bolt was shipped out. He cannibalized an existing kit to help out. Now that's stellar customer service boys & girls. Jerry has a customer for life in me.

So, learn from my huge mistake and don't torque that bolt down with the strength of a 'roided up Jose Canseco or Arod. Use the specs provided in the instructions with the proper tool.

The second "gotcha" occurs when drilling out the rather large hole in the Tupperware. Included in the kit is a threaded scribe with an extremely sharp tip that you temporarily screw in the R&G engine bolt (the one I snapped). With this scribe in place put your panel back on and it makes a mark on the inside of the Tupperware where you drill a pilot hole.

The R&G instructions say to use a 28mm hole saw but I tapped the brake pedal before committing to that drastic a step. In my opinion a 28mm hole is way too large for the sliders. I wanted it smaller and like Angelina Jolie's dress at The Oscars, form fitting.

Follow me here. With my pilot hole drilled I put the black styrofoam piece back on and installed the side panel using all the screws. I then took the long frame slider bolt and slid on the cylindrical spacer (leaving the actual rubber slider off). Since the pilot hole was big enough and I had previously used masking tape around it, I was able to screw the slider bolt into the new engine bolt and push the spacer right up against the Tupperware panel where I traced the outline with a pencil. From there I took my time with a variable speed Proxxon tool equipped with a sanding wheel (the German equivalent of a Dremel tool) and made the hole in the Tupperware large enough to accept the black cylindrical spacer and no more. Again, 28mm would have left quite a gap around the spacer.

After the hole in the Tupperware was completed you'll also have to remove some material from the black styrofoam piece on both sides. You must make room on the inside of it for the new larger engine bolt, and on the outside for the cylindrical spacer.

As you're no doubt suffering from information overload, PM me with further questions. It really is an easy install when you don't break any bolts or make other mistakes.

Best of luck!

David
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post #3 of 18 (permalink) Old Mar 4th, 2009, 9:17 pm Thread Starter
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Great info! Thanks.

When in doubt, apply more throttle.
2008 K1200GT, Dark Graphite, "#4, the Dancing Hippo"
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post #4 of 18 (permalink) Old Mar 4th, 2009, 9:52 pm
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post #5 of 18 (permalink) Old Mar 5th, 2009, 8:25 am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kakalika
I agree, I agree! I was going to take some pics for the write-up I'm doing for Pirates' Lair. Will share them here as well once I get a few moments.

David
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post #6 of 18 (permalink) Old Mar 5th, 2009, 10:14 am
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I just picked up my K1200GT, and I've been wrangling over some tip-over protection.

Of course, my track bike has sliders, but they kind of serve a different purpose. They are to protect against serious damage in a high-speed crash/slide. Even in that case, with much lighter bikes, occasionally there have been problems (in early development) with the slider causing as much damage as it prevents.

I'm really looking for low-speed "tip over" protection. Tough to drill holes in my new bike, but more curious if this really helps much.

Anybody had any experience with a tip-over with these sliders? Did they help enough to warrant drilling the holes?

The R&G units definitely look like the best bet for this type of thing, and seem tp be a great product. I'm just wondering if the whole concept is useful on such a relatively heavy, slab-sided bike as the K1200GT.
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post #7 of 18 (permalink) Old Mar 5th, 2009, 3:37 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smilodon
Anybody had any experience with a tip-over with these sliders? Did they help enough to warrant drilling the holes?
Great question and something else I wanted to document with pictures if I ever get a moment.

First off, let's agree these frame sliders are useless in any type of a crash at speed. If that happens and I'm still upright I'll be buying a new K1300GT in short order. I only installed them to save my Tupperware panels in case of another tip over. I'm a classically trained Finance & Accounting guy slaving away in Corporate America but it didn't take much education to conclude paying $125 for sliders is cheaper than repairing a fairing panel on a 2008 BMW K bike.

Secondly, when I ride the GT to work or around town the side cases are removed. I personally think the bike looks better that way. I dropped it at zero MPH in my office parking lot and damaged the panel, broke the passenger (rear) peg, and scraped my mirror ever so slightly. I can imagine how the case would have also been scratched had it been on.

Unless there's some reason that it would hurt my GT (oil getting in to places it shouldn't) I was thinking of putting down a number of moving blankets on my garage floor and gently laying the bike over on its side. I'd snap a few quick pics and set her back up again.

All of this is contingent on finding the time, however.

David
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post #8 of 18 (permalink) Old Mar 5th, 2009, 4:03 pm
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You're a brave man after just having repairs. I was hoping for some "real world" experience rather than tipping the bike over on purpose!

I have been (depressingly) examining pictures of damaged GT's to see if the placement is very useful. I'll probably risk going without until I tip it over, much as you did. If there were lots of documented cases where they saved the bike on a tip over, I might be tempted to pull out the drill, but probably not.

Drill, new bike, tough sell!
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post #9 of 18 (permalink) Old Mar 5th, 2009, 4:13 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dpancerz
I dropped it at zero MPH in my office parking lot and damaged the panel, broke the passenger (rear) peg, and scraped my mirror ever so slightly. I can imagine how the case would have also been scratched had it been on.
I'm assuming that it went down on the left side then. Had it gone down on the right without a saddlebag, you would be here bitching about the cost of a new exhaust pipe. Just something to consider . . .

Ken
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post #10 of 18 (permalink) Old Mar 5th, 2009, 6:13 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Meese
I'm assuming that it went down on the left side then. Had it gone down on the right without a saddlebag, you would be here bitching about the cost of a new exhaust pipe. Just something to consider . . .
Right as usual Ken. I damaged the left side of the GT.

FWIW, when I owned the F800ST I put frame sliders on that bike as well as a muffler protector (for lack of a better term). A simple curved piece that looks like carbon fiber designed to take the brunt of a scrape. It straps on to the fattest part of the pipe using a simple hose clamp device. While the frame sliders on the 800 bike couldn't be reused on the GT, the muffler protector sure was. Only one person has spotted it to date. LOL!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Smilodon
Drill, new bike, tough sell!
I found drilling the holes in the Tupperware wasn't that big a deal at all. Just me though!

David
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