Originally Posted by Smilodon
So, you run it as a completely separate unit (just hooked to the battery)?
Heck, that sounds easy enough for ME to do...
Under normal wiring circumstances, is the only connection to the wiring system a light connection for flashing the lights?
I guess I assumed that it would be doing some other "disabling" sort of stuff when activated, hence requiring lots of wiring tie-ins. But then, I've never had a bike with an alarm before...
Yes. It's direct to the battery only. No other wires connect to anything other than the LED lights I stuck on the sides beneath the seat from Cycle Gear. Stay away from the CanBus System!
You cannot connect it to the bike's lights at all. See Cycle Gear and add some aux. LEDs or something and hook that one wire from the Scorpio (their alarm light wire) to them and then ground the other side of the LEDs. Don't try and hook it to the bike's brake, tail, or turn signals else you will get all sort of Can-Bus faults.
The small antenna wire for the remote can be snaked down through a small water drain hole in the back under the seats near the rear fender. You can feed it between the two plastic pieces of the rear fender and license plate holder.
You cannot use their immobilizer portion. Your bike already has one (key ring) so you don't need to splice into the Can-Bus at all. Stay away from it!
The proximity sensor can be Velcro'ed to the top of the oil-box. I thought under the top tank fairing cover would be better and give more front sensitivity, but it turns out that it works quite well under the driver's seat on the oil bath top. I set it to activate down to about 3 feet warning range since cars next to it set it off too often when set out to 10 feet. It does get people to back off when they hear it chirp (me too!).
Hardest part is learning all the button pushes for different functions on the remote. You could pay a dealer hundreds of dollars to try and do it, and they will screw it up in the process and it still won't work right (damhik!). You'll get better install help from Scorpio if needed.
I had to put it all together on the living room floor and figure out the proximity thing along with the LEDs before I moved it to the bike using a 12 volt power supply. Dealer gave up after a few hours and thought it was defective as they kept tripping the alarm during the install. Turned out they messed with too much of the control/remote/shaking configurations and were doing it all wrong and the remote was trying to tell them they were setting it off and storing the "bike shaking" and "proximity alert" codes. The alarm was doing it's job all along, they just didn't figure it out nor read the instructions that well. It is a different beast than the BMW alarm so it threw them off. Tech support at Scorpio was really helpful on getting it set up right initially to move to the bike.
Interesting part is the alarm's remote will store the actual time the mechanic actually messes with the bike from off the center stand to shop, off the stand again, etc. if you set it for "silent alarm and no notice" and it will store the proximity or shake time info on the remote. Then you can ask them why you were billed for 3 hours work when they only moved it between the one-hour interval stored on the remote. Opps!