HID Headlight 50 watt vs 35 watt ? - K-Bikes.com - Excellence in Motion
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post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old Apr 29th, 2009, 11:03 pm Thread Starter
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Smile HID Headlight 50 watt vs 35 watt ?

Hello to all,

I have a 2007 GT that I want to install an aftermarket HID low beam headlight in.
I have read several forum threads about this; it seems that everybody has installed a 35 watt HID kit and loves the increase in light output vs the standard 55 watt halogen dipped bulb; but I have several questions if anyone would like to comment on, please do.

First off, some have faults with the computer throwing a blown light code with a 35 watt kit.
Since the canbus / computer is set for 55 watts. Can this be overcome?

Has anybody seen this web site before; HID50.com . This looks like it would be a excellent product, they have both 50 and 35 watt kits.

I like the 50 watt kit, the idea of blinding a deer at 1/4 mile is a good thing? Right?
But, I wonder if the increased light output of 50 watts would increase the "glare" to unbearable levels for other oncoming traffic, since these bulbs are not dipped (the front of the bulbs are not coated) and used in a regular reflector type housing.
How bad is the glare on the 35 watt kits that most of you have installed?
Do any of you have other drivers that flash their lights at you to dim yours?

Also, I checked, the OEM HID bulb in a K1200GT is a 35 watt bulb. If I decide to try the aftermarket 50 watt bulb from HID50.com ; Do you think that the "heat" could damage the reflector housing?
I have not had my bike apart to look at the reflector housing, I thought that some of you that has already done this may have some advise.

Thanks, Rodney

1983 HONDA CX650 TURBO
2007 BMW K1200GT Blue
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post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old Apr 30th, 2009, 9:50 am
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Rod, don't know about the site you mentioned. I think most of the guys here are using the CQ kits, myself included. I think the difference of 35 to 50 would be great, but the brightness factor being a problem? Probably not. If you live in an area with a large population and ride a lot at night, you might get some headlight flashers, but screw em! I don't get any flashers with 35. However if I'm running at night I count on my highs and PIAA's for the most part. If I don't dim those I piss off people in a hurry.

Not sure if the visibility factor increases much from 35 to 50 as far as daylight cager attention grabbing goes. I definitely notice people taking more notice to the 6k HID though as opposed to the stock halogen. But more should be better.

As for the Canbus, mines been fine. No faults.

Try one and let us know.

'07 GT Sold- 2012 GSA Triple Black - Farkles O'Plenty!

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post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old Apr 30th, 2009, 10:47 am
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I also recently purchased the CQ kit, just haven't installed it yet due to laziness or no beer in fridge. Might try it this weekend as I just sharpened up and made a 1" hole punch out of some old pipe for the BMW light cover since I somehow derive some Paleo-Indian pleasure from pounding on stuff with a 4 pound dead-blow hammer (like tire beads).

Fwiw, I just plugged it into a lab supply to see if it works and it shows 12.0 volts @ 3.5 amps for draw of 42.0 watts. At lower voltages (<8.0) it will flicker on and off about 1 Hz. but the tag says 9-16 volts so all was well there. Bulb Kelvin on box was marked 6,000K and lights up a pronounced bluish white. The box Kelvin runs as: 3,000 - 5,000 - 6,000 - 8,000 - 10,000 - 12,000 Kelvin so you might be able to select something oranger to even more blueish if you order by phone.

No fuse on mine though as shown in Griff's write-up (?). No resistor either as in the write-up (?). Maybe they figured the Can-Bus would take care of all that. Just the silver aluminum box and the inline high voltage (23 KV) converter and the hookup wiring and mounting brackets and screws which they leave you to devise your own bolt-on methods.

I don't know if the bulb they supply is some generic replacement though as it appears the the wires and plug an integral part of it. Might just carry the old stock lamp in their supplied plastic canister that came with the HID lamp.

Also, I don't know why the two spade lugs that plug into the existing bike's socket didn't come with a sealed and polarized (+/-) plug of some sort (maybe because that plug is hidden under the cover?), but everything else plug-wise is very water tight and looks good. Just need to make certain the black (negative) in the kit goes to the brown wire on the BMW light socket.


Mack
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post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old Apr 30th, 2009, 5:01 pm
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HID Light install on 2007 K1200GT

Rod,

I just finished installing a xenondepot.com H7 35 watt kit on my 2007 BMW K1200GT.
I have installed a CQlights kit on my 2005 K1200LT, and a hidonline kit on my 2000 K1200LT.

Here are my experience on the 2007 BMW K1200GT.

The Xenondepot motorcyle kit comes with a relay installed in the wiring harness.
The relay design is to fully protect and isolate the HID kit from the OEM headlight wiring. I utilized the relay and ran a fused 12 Volt positive back to the battery. Thank you to GrifScoots for his write-up on installing the kit by removing the windshield and windshield motor, the time to install is quite reasonable. If you utilize the relay that is in the harness, you will throw a headlight fault code and I have observed this firsthand. In checking with Xenondepot and performing a calculation if you wish to use the relay then you will need a 6 Ohm 50 Watt Ceramic Bathtub Resistor. I do not recommend this as it throws off a significant amount of heat and of course eats up current you do not need to draw. But for illustration purposes and due to curiosity I installed the resistor as had one at work just to verify that a fault code for the headlight would not be thrown with the proper current draw as provided by the resistor. Upon test no fault code with resistor in place.

My recommendation is to cut the relay out of the xeneondepot harness and install a SAE mini 15 or 20 amp fuse in line with the Positive side of the 12 volt lead. (Xenondepot includes a 20 amp fuse, by calculation 15 amp is adequate for their ballast and igniter) I then wired the ballast to the oem headlight wiring, BMW brown wire is ground using two spade lugs with a plastic polarized plug. Grif's pictures are excellent and show you how to cut the BMW dustcover on the headlight to install the grommets for wire pass through. If you utilize the cqlights motorcycle kit, they do not include a relay. The only thing I would suggest is adding the inline fuse to a CQlights kit install.

The Cqlights kits are components from China, the xenenondepot kit is components from Japan and a Phillips bulb if you specify and pay for it. Is there a difference in quality or light output. That is personal preference I believe. Next you have choices of 4300K or 5000K in the two kits I mentioned as closest to the spectrum of daylight. Higher numbers are colder or more blue, lower numbers more yellow or warm on the Kelvin color temperature scale. Either kit will work fine for you, and the difference from Halogen to HID Xenon is unrivaled.

With this setup no faults are thrown. It appears that those using the cqlights kit without relay are working well and no faults thrown with that configuration on canbus bikes.

Mirage
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post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old May 5th, 2009, 12:13 am
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Following up on the CQ HID install, all went well once I got the windshield motor off per Griff's write up in the "Hall of Wisdom" CQ HID Installation (stupid tie-wrap! and getting my big hands in the right side area to unplug it. Okay, one dropped windshield mounting bolt too).

Looking back, it might not even be necessary to remove the windshield motor unit nor the right body panel, just the shield and cover beneath it. I Velcro'ed and tie-wrapped the silver power unit (blue in Griff's photos) to the crossbeam right above the motor (there's a cable retainer bolted in the middle of it). On the left side of the bracket I tie-wrapped the high voltage ballast. The rubber cover over the low beam can be removed by reaching through the fork area.

Mine didn't come with a resistor nor a fuse. It's really daylight blue against the orangish parking lamps and high beam. No fault has appeared when checked on the GS-911 so I guess all is well.


Mack
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post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old May 5th, 2009, 3:47 pm
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I have two kits from hid50.com - one in the GSA and one in the K12. Good kit and whilst it is brighter than a 35 watt kit, it's not blinding for oncoming traffic as long as it is adjusted properly. The GSA has had the kit for 2 years so far with no issues and the K12 for 16 months - a total of 25,000 miles. Overall, well recommended.

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post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old May 5th, 2009, 8:42 pm Thread Starter
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Thanks fellows for all your responses.
I have a question for GSARider.
Did you get the 5000K or 6000K bulb kits?
How is the color?
Are high beams even necessary with these lights?
Or when you turn your high beams on with the low HID,
can you tell that you even turned them on?

Thanks, Rod

1983 HONDA CX650 TURBO
2007 BMW K1200GT Blue
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post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old May 5th, 2009, 9:20 pm
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On the GT, the single low beam is also on with the two high beams. There is a definite difference in color between the 6000K HID lamp and the (my guesstimate) 3,800K halogen high beam lamp. It's orange over blue on my garage wall.

Damn that curiosity of mine....

Made me find my old Gossen photography color temperature meter. Low beam HID reads 6,800K. High beams -both - (halogen) measure 3,200K. Never thought they were that "orange" but they are. I'd guess the lower voltage of the stock halogens would fluctuate in color far more than the 23K volts supplied to the HID xenon lamp.

Some people can see better in the yellow/reddish spectrum light than bluish, so say the neon sign makers who use red neon over blue mercury-argon signs. Red neon just seems to punch through fog and rain better, sort of like a low-tone fog-horn over high. How much better you can see in high-Kelvin bluish lights is very subjective in nature. Some orange high-pressure sodium lamps just seem a bit weak to me for any sort of distance vision, but they are wattage savers. Conversely, a very blue 12,000 Kelvin HID lamp seems almost invisible to me shining down the road at any wattage.

Damn, I'm seeing lots of dots before my eyes now......


Mack

Last edited by GMack; May 5th, 2009 at 9:28 pm.
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post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old May 6th, 2009, 2:12 am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RODCAYLOR
Thanks fellows for all your responses.
I have a question for GSARider.
Did you get the 5000K or 6000K bulb kits?
How is the color?
Are high beams even necessary with these lights?
Or when you turn your high beams on with the low HID,
can you tell that you even turned them on?

Thanks, Rod
I've got 5000k in the GSA and 6000k in the K12, the 6000k are better - they're more 'white', the 5000k have a tinge of yellow. I have a double kit fitted on both bikes, so both low beam / high beam. A lot of people say that the high beam (hid) isn't fast enough for 'flashing' but I haven't found it to be an issue.

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post #10 of 16 (permalink) Old May 6th, 2009, 9:49 am
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The 4100 - 4300K hid's put out the most light.And the closest to white. They are getting hard to find these days. That leaves the 5000K next as the brightest. But there are getting a little blue. Anything higher will be less light output. I would stick with the 4100K to 5000K if at all possible. I have three of them on my GT and four halogens.

Brian Ley
2007 GT
2010 650GS
2000 LT sold but not forgotten
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