After I posted my experience with installing an Adaptiv TPX radar/laser detector, one of you noticed my PIAA lights on the Denver BMW mirror mounts and wanted to know more about them.
There are some other writeups on installing these mirror mounted PIAA lights in the HOW and they inspired me to look into them as well. I also looked at PIAA lamps and after seeing another local Seattle guy that had the 1100X models, I decided they were for me too.
The one thing that bothered me was switches and how to control them, so I looked into the possibilities of avoiding more remote switches, so I investigated an Autoswitch solution and chose that - also being a little apprehensive as there are some who believe they may fail or disrupt the CANBUS system. I chose the model AS6B which is supposed to be compatible with the CANBUS and it is controlled by the turn signal cancellation switch by depressing it and holding it for 1 second. (There is another that works with 2 quick depressions of the same switch).
My experience has been great. I absolutely love the lights mounted this high. I know they are illegal in some states (to have driving lamps lit that are higher than the headlight), but my plan has been to use them in the early morning and late evenings on dark roads with no oncoming traffic, or in HOV lanes in crowded traffic to avoid having cars move into the lane w/o seeing me. They really throw the light way down the road. And, with the xeon headlight they can turn the night into day. The Autoswitch has been flawless as well. No faults, no problems.
Thought I would share some pictures about my install to see if this might work for you as well.
First, you have to de-skin the whole front end to remove the front cowl, which is not that difficult, but takes some time. And you have to remove the mirrors as well. Easy, just twist them to expose the two long torx screws that hold them in place and remove the center bolt and shims as well. This is a pic of the left mirror mount minus the mirror and with one of the 100X lamps on the mount. The 1100X lamps come with large 2-blade connectors that will not fit through a small hole drilled through the oval base, so you have to snip those off and be prepared to reconnect the 2 wires out of the lamp back to the harness supplied that supplies power.
Here is another shot with the mirror put back in place, and it shows two other things.
1) I put shrink wrap over the 2 wires that come out of the back of the lamp (to protect them), and
2) I use Posi-lock wiring connectors because they don't require soldering, and they are easily removable if necessary. They also don't cut the wire.
One more view to show you the metal support that holds the mirror and the cowling together.
Next was to find a place for the AS6B switch. It's just a thin waffer with a bunch of wires coming out of one end, so I used the double sided tape that came with it, and mounted up high under the inside of the right cowl where it is mostly out of the way.
The next thing was to decide where to intercept the turn signal cancellation control wire. The Autoswitch company recommends cutting and splicing the wire right out of the turn signal cancellation switch, so I took the $300+ switch unit off the handlebar and took a look. SCARY.
Screw this up and your wallet will be lighter than the whole project started out as, AND it will probably be 3 weeks for your local dealer to get a new switch from the father-land. No way.
So I re-read their instructions (which suck) but their literature and web site indicate that you might want to consider splicing in the wire at the chassis CPU harness as an alternative. This is where that is.
In order to find the wire there, you need to take BOTH multi-wire connectors off the bottom of the CPU and cut a few tie-wraps. That's kind of scary as well. But I took my time, and this shows where that cancel control wire is on the connector.
Unwrap the cloth electrical tape, slide the accordion sheath up the bundle and tape it out of the way, then cut the wire in a place you have some slack to work with. I didn't take a final pic here, but if you use a waterproof Posi-lock (which gives back some length) and splice in the AS6B's cancel switch control wire and put all the sheath and electrical tape back in place and reconnect the CPU connectors.
Here is a picture of the trigger wire attached to the harness and going up behind the air snorkel so it won't get in the way for other work.
One last picture of the AS6B wiring. This isn't as scary as it looks. Really. You just have to think it out. The AS6B in addition to the cancel switch trigger wire, it also has control wires that need to go to the relay that is supplied with the PIAA kit, and a couple of wires that operate a cool LED to let you know when the lights are on or off. They recommend you not cut the long long leads they give for the LED, so I just bundled those up and tie-wrapped them above the air snorkle and below the glove box attachment point. The other control wires that need switched power and to the relay I shrink wrapped to contain them where I make all my other accessory connections in front of the gas tank.
I have a fuse box for switched and unswitched power sitting on top of the battery.
Finally, here is a picture of the lamps both in place after a trial and aiming on the garage door. Never mind all the wires hanging out of the right side. My retirement funds are heavily invested in tie-wrap stock and other Farkles for my toys.
At last, here is a picture of the PIAA lights on, and I think the xeon headlight off. Bike not running. Because they are switched, they go out in one minute if I am forgetful but turn the key off.
One more with the bike running and the xenon also on. It actually dims the camera. Wow
Oh, here is where I decided to mount the LED. It shows red when the lights are off.
And green when the lights are on.