As if my moons haven't crashed enough...
Doing the Power Frk (with the extra short leads that will no way reach the red circled screw for the ground wire in their K1200S photos!) along with the quick disconnects, it seems the tank has sprung a leak somewhere around the pump mount. Big puddle on front of tank (pump mount up around a 45 degree angle to allow sealant to dry around new quick disconnect). Tank was maybe third full. Just sitting in the shade (I moved it out of the sun as I thought the 103 degree heat in the sun might be too much).
I also put electrical tape over the quick disconnect and that brass tube that goes wherever on the mount. I also had the filler screwed back on and put a old plastic tire stem cap on the top vent (more on that later).
Appears the tank self-pressurized itself in the heat and blew out some gasoline around the front pump area. When I removed the tire cap on the tank's top vent, the air rushed out. I thought the threads on the cap would allow some air to escape. Apparently not. It built up enough internal pressure and a leak formed at the front of the tank.
Appears some of the white sealant around the quick disconnect is yellow maybe due to gasoline? There was also an air-bubble that poofed out from the white sealant. Dunno. The two little gold-colored Torx screws that hold in the pump onto the plate were loose too too and there is a blue gasket under that area. Tightened those down.
I don't know about that large steel ring around the entire mount. Is it screwed onto the tank with a strap wrench? There is a white plastic tang under that large steel ring that rests in some detent on the tank towards the top. Idea as to what that is or how to tighten the thing?
I may pull the QD again tonight and use some more sealant and keep from plugging the top tank vent. That vent thing getting plugged can lead to a serious leak, so I've found.
The QD's hose clamp on the rubber fuel line turned out to be a bitch to find. The BMW shop gave me one that was too big (screw drive) and I could turn it when tightened down. Second one from CarQuest deformed when tightened. Went to Toyota Parts and they cannot do anything as they go off a picture to find a part number to come up with a clamp. He tried to no avail. Boat shop had generic worm drive that I know isn't meant for a rubber fuel line. W.W. Grainger Industrial Supply has an Oetinker clamp kit and pliers set for $100, but they are closed (July 3rd-4th).
Ended up at a custom Harley repair shop and guy gave me a Harley Oetinker clamp free. Said to go to hardware store and get a 6" end nipper pliers (Orchard Supply & Hardware has them under their own name with a green handle), and run a flat file through the end cutters a few times until it no longer would cut through a playing card - or the clamp. That worked like a champ! Clamp fit like it should and he said they were very common among Harley shops. The local Snap-On man doesn't even have one of those Oetinker clamp pliers.
Oh, even though I had to pull the battery to get into the mess with my big hands, I found that accessing the connectors from the right side of the bike to be much easier than trying it on the left. Some wrist action I guess.
And Griff is right about that damn male quick connector being a bitch to get off the rubber fuel line even after the Oetinker clamp is loosened with a screwdriver twist. That plastic QD has some serious barbs that dig into the line and I could never get it loose.