2008 K brake fluid replacement procedure - K-Bikes.com - Excellence in Motion
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old Jul 17th, 2009, 6:10 pm Thread Starter
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2008 K brake fluid replacement procedure

anybody knows the steps to follow for replacing the brake fluid on 2008 k? on previious models with servo assisted brakes it was a very complicated procedure requiring a special suction pump.


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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old Jul 17th, 2009, 8:41 pm
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Changing brake fluid on the '07 and up GT's with the non-servo brakes is the same as on any other bike. Fill from the upper reservoir and bleed from the caliper and avoid introducing any air into the system.

BMW recommends this every two years. There is no need to mess with the ABS system at all.

Ken
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'13 Dark Graphite Metallic K16GTLD, 24K miles and counting...
'09 Magnesium Beige Metallic K13GT, 60K miles miles and counting...
'02 Mauve Metallic K12LTC, 106K miles and sold
BMWLT#145, IBA# 366, MOA# 111996, SCMA# 24032

All lower 48 states plus Alaska on the K13GT in two weeks . . .

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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old Jul 25th, 2009, 10:40 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Meese
Changing brake fluid on the '07 and up GT's with the non-servo brakes is the same as on any other bike. Fill from the upper reservoir and bleed from the caliper and avoid introducing any air into the system.

BMW recommends this every two years. There is no need to mess with the ABS system at all.

+1

Totally EASY compared to my 04. I hated servos. i put in speed bleeders, but still use a vacuum pump. BTW-I flush annually.

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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old Jul 27th, 2009, 11:02 am
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Why??

Why change the brake fluid? I can never remember changing brake fluid, unless we needed to relacing calipers or (showing my age) cylinders.It is in a sealed environment, I must be missing something.

Terry


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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old Jul 27th, 2009, 12:27 pm
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It isn't really sealed completely. Nothing ever is.

Brake fluid is hygroscopic, meaning it will absorb moisture from the air over time. Moisture that when heated will turn to steam which compresses, unlike clean brake fluid which doesn't compress. So you're riding hard and having fun, then you grab a handful of brake and find that the lever moves just a bit too far, and you get less braking than you expected. Or in extreme cases, none at all. Not fun when hurling yourself down a mountainside . . .

I've replaced the brake fluid on my '07 GT twice in the past 28 months and ~95K miles. Both times I felt the brakes give somewhat when pushed hard. A simple flush & fill solved the problem.

Ken
Pacific NorthWet
'13 Dark Graphite Metallic K16GTLD, 24K miles and counting...
'09 Magnesium Beige Metallic K13GT, 60K miles miles and counting...
'02 Mauve Metallic K12LTC, 106K miles and sold
BMWLT#145, IBA# 366, MOA# 111996, SCMA# 24032

All lower 48 states plus Alaska on the K13GT in two weeks . . .

Some people see the gas tank as half empty. Some see it as half full. All I care is that I know where the next tankful is coming from...
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old Jul 27th, 2009, 2:10 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Doru-in-Romania
anybody knows the steps to follow for replacing the brake fluid on 2008 k? on previious models with servo assisted brakes it was a very complicated procedure requiring a special suction pump.
Its a GS forum but the procedure is the same:

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...ht=Brake+flush

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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old Jul 30th, 2009, 6:02 pm
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I've been bleeding my brakes for years and would like to continue to do so the "old fashioned" way. Does this method outlined in the link provided by hazard flush all the fluid out of the pressure modulator and all the lines into and out of it as well? It would seem
that with linked brakes and ABS there's a lot of plumbing in addition to the lines between the lever/pedal and the calipers. I've got a 2007 GT.

Last edited by DonH; Jul 30th, 2009 at 7:28 pm.
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old Jul 31st, 2009, 1:00 pm
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My understanding is that there are only two brake fluid circuits on the bike - front and rear wheels. Both of these run through the ABS unit, but there are no separate "ABS" circuits. A dealer flush & bleed does include pulling the left fairing panel to get to the bleed screws on the ABS unit itself, but those are still the same two circuits.

Note this is different for the '06 bikes with the power brakes. I believe those do have separate ABS circuits that need to be flushed and bled, although not as often as the wheel circuits.

Ken
Pacific NorthWet
'13 Dark Graphite Metallic K16GTLD, 24K miles and counting...
'09 Magnesium Beige Metallic K13GT, 60K miles miles and counting...
'02 Mauve Metallic K12LTC, 106K miles and sold
BMWLT#145, IBA# 366, MOA# 111996, SCMA# 24032

All lower 48 states plus Alaska on the K13GT in two weeks . . .

Some people see the gas tank as half empty. Some see it as half full. All I care is that I know where the next tankful is coming from...
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old Jul 31st, 2009, 4:44 pm
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Thanks for the info. I suppose that if all of the valves/circuits in the ABS pressure modulator are open when the bike is shut down fluid would perhaps flow through it during a normal bleed routine. That doesn't seem likely. And one has to wonder why the dealer's tech would access the unit to bleed it separately. I'll probably just bleed the brakes as always and if some of the old stuff stays in the system I'll be happy knowing that at least I renewed most of it.
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old Aug 2nd, 2009, 10:20 am
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I have always gotten a better brake (hand and foot) lever feel after a fluid change, I have always done them yearly - ymmv

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