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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old Aug 14th, 2009, 12:00 pm Thread Starter
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2007 K1200GT question

Has anyone else experienced the following -

At this one particular intersection I have to stop (and start) on a hill where I have to apply the back brake to keep from rolling backward. A couple weeks ago I stalled the bike at this intersection and figured it was because I was not paying attention. I was focusing on making sure to release the back brake as I was rolling on the throttle and letting the clutch out. However the other day I payed much more attention to what I was doing and noticed that I needed to gas it up to about 3K RPM and even then it almost stalled. At first the motor sounded no different than if I was starting on flat ground (BTW - I do not need to give it 3K throttle on flat ground), but as the clutch becomes fully engaged the RPMs just drop as if I don't have the throttle on at all.

This is a pretty busy intersection and I have been in stop and go traffic (up the hill) as everyone is waiting their turn at the intersection. I might have stopped and started 10 - 15 times by the time I get to the intersection and the clutch is engaged just to get me rolling to close the gap between vehicles. I am riding one up with little additional weight in the bags (rainsuit) have run several tanks of gas from different places in between episodes so I doubt it is bad gas.

Has this happened to anyone else? Is this tied to that same flat spot behavior that rears its ugly head at the most inopportune times.
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old Aug 14th, 2009, 3:53 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MickeyD
Has this happened to anyone else? Is this tied to that same flat spot behavior that rears its ugly head at the most inopportune times.
I don't know much, but it could be many things. Basic troubleshooting says to eliminate possible problems. Easiest things to try first are changing your techniques.

If you are only at 3000rpm starting a heavy bike up a hill from a stop with the brake partially applied, maybe you need to use more gas.

If you feel the rear shock compressing as you are applying gas, you need to get off the brake faster. I usually release the brake completely all at once as I start applying the gas.

If changing your techniques isn't solving the problem, then maybe it is the bike. Or maybe you need to change your commute.
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old Sep 5th, 2009, 4:18 pm Thread Starter
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Cool more info

Just got back from my 24K service. I am not sure what they did but the bike is running much better.

Today I learned that the oil dipstick Max line marking is not correct. Every time I get my bike back from a service the oil level is about 1/4 - 1/2 inch above the max line. I always thought the mechanics were overfilling. So when the oil level dropped to the max line (not below) I did not think much of it. I check the oil on the center stand and it does not make any difference if the oil is hot or cold. It reads the same both ways even though I believe the book says to check it hot. I thought the oil above the max line was excess and was getting pushed out some overflow tube. The oil check on the RID has always said the oil level was ok, however the low oil <!> indicator was coming on intermittently over the last 6K.

Today I had the opportunity to talk to the mechanic when I picked up my bike. He mentioned when he drained the oil that he only got about 3 quarts out of my bike and he should have got 4. I think he was just eyeballing what came out. Where did the other quart go? I told him the stick has never gone below Max. so how could the oil level be low.

When I pulled the dipstick out in front of him, sure enough the oil was 1/4 - 1/2 inch above the Max line. He said that the correct amount of oil was in the bike. If that is true that means the stick has incorrect markings on it and it also suggests many other people are are incorrectly reading the oil stick too.

The mechanic said he tested it and the oil sensor was working properly. I did not see the <!> indicator come on in the 50 mile trip back home from the shop. Maybe too soon to tell. Now that I know what is going on I brought a quart of BMW Synthetic to keep the oil at the level the mechanics fill it. I am not sure if anyone else knew of this so just wanted to give some feedback and hopefully it helps somebody else.

I got rid of my RT because of the amount of oil I had to keep feeding it. What's up with this?
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old Sep 5th, 2009, 4:27 pm
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Not sure about the oil. Curious if you asked him about the stalling.
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old Sep 5th, 2009, 4:57 pm Thread Starter
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I had another issue that side tracked me from asking about the stalling. Three days days before my service I rode about 20 miles, shut down for about 5 minutes and then tried (I repeat, tried to start my bike). I pushed the start button and the motor would not turn over, it tried. Each push of the starter got me one "thuu". After about three tries I sat there for about 15 minutes and tried again and it started. I thought my battery had gone bad and put it on the battery tender each day when I got home from work. I did not put it on the night before the service. The mechanic said my battery is putting out the same voltage(?) as a brand new battery so he thought this might have been an issue of a dirty post. I hope they cleaned it as part of the service. I have noticed that intermittently when I stop to get gas the bike turns over kind of slow on restart.

I am kind of put off about asking the service department about the stalling issue. Whenever I describe stuff like this to them they look at me like I am crazy (like the flat spot that has never been fixed). I thought my service, starting issue, and bringing up the the squealing clutch (from day one) was pushing it.
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old Sep 5th, 2009, 7:23 pm
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Quote:
Today I had the opportunity to talk to the mechanic when I picked up my bike. He mentioned when he drained the oil that he only got about 3 quarts out of my bike and he should have got 4. I think he was just eyeballing what came out. Where did the other quart go? I told him the stick has never gone below Max. so how could the oil level be low.
Oil fill spec with filter is 3.5 liters or 3.7 quarts. The difference between min and max on the stick is .5 liters or .53 quarts. He overfilled your bike and thinks the spec is 4 quarts of oil. You may want to consider moving to a new dealer.
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old Sep 5th, 2009, 7:59 pm
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The 3000 RPM starts on a hill are a problem. The 06-08 GTs have a flat spot in the power curve at 3000 RPM an do tend to bogdown. I had the same problem starting off on grades at that RPM. Increasing to about 3400 helped. The real cure was to add the PowerFRK

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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old Sep 6th, 2009, 7:37 am Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bandera
Oil fill spec with filter is 3.5 liters or 3.7 quarts. The difference between min and max on the stick is .5 liters or .53 quarts. He overfilled your bike and thinks the spec is 4 quarts of oil. You may want to consider moving to a new dealer.
Thanks.

So it is possible that this is excess oil and it is getting pushed out like I thought? I try and wind it up (7 - 8K) before shifting at least a couple times a day. Don't know if that is what causes the oil to push out but I have noticed a yellow film right below the oil box by the shock. Looks like a tube runs down by there.

I thought I had an explanation but now I am clueless then as to why the low oil <!> light was coming on. The mechanic explained that the sensor is in the oil box under the seat and explained its functionality like a float in a toilet. He said it is basically a float on a stick and measures level and temperature. I won't know for sure until the next couple days when I will see if it turns on again.

I don't know what they did but the motor just felt stronger from a start. Granted, I was on flat ground. The humidity was low around here yesterday so that could have something to do with it.
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old Sep 6th, 2009, 7:47 am
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It's not clear from your post, so just to be sure - you are not screwing in the dipstick when you check the oil level, correct?

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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old Sep 6th, 2009, 8:11 am Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by neilgundel
It's not clear from your post, so just to be sure - you are not screwing in the dipstick when you check the oil level, correct?
Yes I am screwing in the dipstick. Is that not the correct procedure? If the stick is not screwed in it does not look like it goes straight down.
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