The best way to change the Rear Gear Oil..and easier than I thought - K-Bikes.com - Excellence in Motion
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post #1 of 21 (permalink) Old Aug 24th, 2009, 12:55 pm Thread Starter
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The best way to change the Rear Gear Oil..and easier than I thought

The best way to change the Rear Gear Oil..and easier than I thought

The first time I changed the rear gear oil on my 2006 GT I tried the tube/syringe method.
Since the Ď06s have the oil plug at the 3 oíclock position this seemed like the way to go.

Of course I checked the GT forums and behold it was posted the best way to do it and also itís the BMW shop way too.

Simple really. With the rear wheel off and a oil pan underneath simply

Releasing Paralever link at rear
. Use a strap to secure the rear.wheel drive to the rear frame.
. Remove bolt with washer and nut .


Draining oil from rear wheel drive
Remove oil drain plug.
Release the retaining strap enough to pull the pinion shaft out of the propeller shaft and pivot the rear-wheel drive down.
(this may take a pry bar of some kind to gently slide the pinion gear out of the U-joint)
The rubber gaiter will probably need to be pried away from the shaft housing. Careful not to damage the inside plastic rings on each end of this gaiter.
Drain off the oil.

Lubricate the splines of the shaft (hey while you there, right) with white grease.

Put it back together:
Check that plastic inserts are correctly seated in flexible gaiter
.Lubricate the mating surfaces of the flexible gaiter.

Snap flexible gaiter into the threaded ring of the final drive. (basically make sure the gaiter is in place and the keyed part is lined up)
(Plastic rings should stay in the gaiter so reinstalling them is moot)
Swing the final drive up and introducte the universal shaft into the shaft stub.
You can slightly pull the shaft towards the pinion to get alignment but make sure it still engages the transmission. Try rotating it while you shift the gear pedal)
Position flexible gaiter so that the lug engages the swinging arm.(That keyed part of the gaiter)

Check that the flexible gaiter is correctly seated on the swing arm and the final drive.

Of course while you are lifting the swing arm up and doing this shortening the strap will hold the shaft arm in place at any point along your project.

Reinstall paralaver link bolt and nut.

Now install your oil.

I used a large syringe and a flexible IV tube to get it in there without spilling.
I put 180ml in and Iím not sure how you could add more since any more and it would just flow out the 3 oíclock drain hole that you are using.

Install oil drain plug.

Put the wheel back on and youíre done.

Much easier than I thought and better piece of mind knowing all the oil is drained and that I didnít get a IV tube jammed in there trying to suck oil out.
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post #2 of 21 (permalink) Old Aug 24th, 2009, 4:59 pm
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Nice post-very detailed and appreciated. But, yea, theres always a butt. This "proper" method-and I don't dispute that, aint simple. Easy, yes, but takes more than a few minutes. So, think I will use the "proper" method every other time (with spline lube), and the IV method in between-that really took me 15mins. BTW, when running the tube down to drain-just turn the tire and the inner drum will drag the tube down to the bottom-just eye-ball the distance to bottom. If she's stubborn to retract-just turn the tire in opposite direction and the inner drum will drag it up till free and spits in your face.

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post #3 of 21 (permalink) Old Aug 24th, 2009, 5:48 pm Thread Starter
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Well it was that dragging of the IV tube in the gears that had me worried that it just may not come out and may get all tied up in there. Or that the gears could cut the tube off leaving some still inside. And my tube sometimes collapsed with the suction.
Why take the chance? And the correct way also drains it completely. The IV version I'm not sure if the tube would be curled up inside and not getting all the old oil. Yeah I know to measure but the drain method gets it all.
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post #4 of 21 (permalink) Old Aug 24th, 2009, 8:21 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kbmwrs
Now install your oil. I put 180ml in and Iím not sure how you could add more since any more and it would just flow out the 3 oíclock drain hole that you are using.
Hope this isn't a stupid question but does the BMW cd or manual quote 180ml for 2006 GTs? I'm aware it's a no brainer since you can't put more in but my 2008 bike states a fill amount of 230ml. Granted my plug is located in the 12 o'clock position making it a tad easier.

I'm just asking out of curiosity.... Nice write-up by the way!

David
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post #5 of 21 (permalink) Old Aug 25th, 2009, 5:36 am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kbmwrs
The best way to change the Rear Gear Oil..and easier than I thought

The first time I changed the rear gear oil on my 2006 GT I tried the tube/syringe method.
Since the Ď06s have the oil plug at the 3 oíclock position this seemed like the way to go.

Of course I checked the GT forums and behold it was posted the best way to do it and also itís the BMW shop way too.

Simple really. With the rear wheel off and a oil pan underneath simply

Releasing Paralever link at rear
. Use a strap to secure the rear.wheel drive to the rear frame.
. Remove bolt with washer and nut .


Draining oil from rear wheel drive
Remove oil drain plug.
Release the retaining strap enough to pull the pinion shaft out of the propeller shaft and pivot the rear-wheel drive down.
(this may take a pry bar of some kind to gently slide the pinion gear out of the U-joint)
The rubber gaiter will probably need to be pried away from the shaft housing. Careful not to damage the inside plastic rings on each end of this gaiter.
Drain off the oil.

Lubricate the splines of the shaft (hey while you there, right) with white grease.

Put it back together:
Check that plastic inserts are correctly seated in flexible gaiter
.Lubricate the mating surfaces of the flexible gaiter.

Snap flexible gaiter into the threaded ring of the final drive. (basically make sure the gaiter is in place and the keyed part is lined up)
(Plastic rings should stay in the gaiter so reinstalling them is moot)
Swing the final drive up and introducte the universal shaft into the shaft stub.
You can slightly pull the shaft towards the pinion to get alignment but make sure it still engages the transmission. Try rotating it while you shift the gear pedal)
Position flexible gaiter so that the lug engages the swinging arm.(That keyed part of the gaiter)

Check that the flexible gaiter is correctly seated on the swing arm and the final drive.

Of course while you are lifting the swing arm up and doing this shortening the strap will hold the shaft arm in place at any point along your project.

Reinstall paralaver link bolt and nut.

Now install your oil.

I used a large syringe and a flexible IV tube to get it in there without spilling.
I put 180ml in and Iím not sure how you could add more since any more and it would just flow out the 3 oíclock drain hole that you are using.

Install oil drain plug.

Put the wheel back on and youíre done.

Much easier than I thought and better piece of mind knowing all the oil is drained and that I didnít get a IV tube jammed in there trying to suck oil out.
Nice write up, but:


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post #6 of 21 (permalink) Old Aug 25th, 2009, 12:29 pm Thread Starter
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The refill noted 180ml which didn't state which year bike it was for but since the '06 (mine) matched the description and pics of the work I'm guessing it was for a '06.

Other posts on this site and others have noted varying refill amount for the newer rearends from 180 to 230ml.

As for pics...ya, I'm sorry. I didn't even think of it while I was working.
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post #7 of 21 (permalink) Old Aug 25th, 2009, 10:18 pm
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All good, except lubing the splines. You should use a high grade moly for that.

-=grif=-
What was that middle thang?
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post #8 of 21 (permalink) Old Aug 26th, 2009, 12:26 am
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+1 on what Grif said. I used Honda Moly Paste for my splines....that stuff aint cheap though.


F

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post #9 of 21 (permalink) Old Aug 26th, 2009, 12:59 am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pmorritt
Nice post-very detailed and appreciated. But, yea, theres always a butt. This "proper" method-and I don't dispute that, aint simple. Easy, yes, but takes more than a few minutes. So, think I will use the "proper" method every other time (with spline lube), and the IV method in between-that really took me 15mins. BTW, when running the tube down to drain-just turn the tire and the inner drum will drag the tube down to the bottom-just eye-ball the distance to bottom. If she's stubborn to retract-just turn the tire in opposite direction and the inner drum will drag it up till free and spits in your face.
+1

Having done both...I now exclusively use the little silicone hose i got from Pets Mart and a hand held Mighty Vac. I get out more than i did with the BMW method. Really. I then use a 1970s oil squirt can filled with my favorite gear oil to refill. Easy, fast and clean!

2007 K1200GT
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post #10 of 21 (permalink) Old Sep 4th, 2009, 2:15 pm Thread Starter
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Now with PICS

The best way to change the Rear Gear Oil..and easier than I thought

The first time I changed the rear gear oil on my 2006 GT I tried the tube/syringe method.
Since the Ď06s have the oil plug at the 3 oíclock position this seemed like the way to go.

Of course I checked the GT forums and behold it was posted the best way to do it and also itís the BMW shop way too.

Simple really. With the rear wheel off (I also remove the exhaust for easier removal)

and a oil pan underneath simply

Releasing Paralever link at rear
. Use a strap to secure the rear.wheel drive to the rear frame.
. Remove bolt with washer and nut .





Draining oil from rear wheel drive
Remove oil drain plug.

Release the retaining strap enough to pull the pinion shaft out of the propeller shaft and pivot the rear-wheel drive down.

(this may take a pry bar of some kind to gently slide the pinion gear out of the U-joint)

The rubber gaiter will probably need to be pried away from the shaft housing. Careful not to damage the inside plastic rings on each end of this gaiter.
Drain off the oil.

Lubricate the splines of the shaft (hey while you there, right) I used Honda Moly 60.

Put it back together:
Check that plastic inserts are correctly seated in flexible gaiter
.Lubricate the mating surfaces of the flexible gaiter.

Snap flexible gaiter into the threaded ring of the final drive. (basically make sure the gaiter is in place and the keyed part is lined up)
(Plastic rings should stay in the gaiter so reinstalling them is moot)
Swing the final drive up and introducte the universal shaft into the shaft stub.
You can slightly pull the shaft towards the pinion to get alignment but make sure it still engages the transmission. Try rotating it while you shift the gear pedal)
Position flexible gaiter so that the lug engages the swinging arm.(That keyed part of the gaiter)

Check that the flexible gaiter is correctly seated on the swing arm and the final drive.

Of course while you are lifting the swing arm up and doing this shortening the strap will hold the shaft arm in place at any point along your project.

Reinstall paralaver link bolt and nut.

Now install your oil.

I used a large syringe and a flexible IV tube to get it in there without spilling.
I put 180ml in and Iím not sure how you could add more since any more and it would just flow out the 3 oíclock drain hole that you are using.

Install oil drain plug.

Put the wheel back on and youíre done.

Much easier than I thought and better piece of mind knowing all the oil is drained and that I didnít get a IV tube jammed in there trying to suck oil out.
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