High Beam wire coming from ECU - K-Bikes.com - Excellence in Motion
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old Aug 27th, 2009, 7:53 pm Thread Starter
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High Beam wire coming from ECU

Hi All,

I need a bit of help from someone who has a wiring schematic for the GT.

I'd like to know which wire would source +12V at the computer when the high beam is switched on.

I've been trying to install an AutoSwitch AS5PG2 Garage door remote - and for some reason if I try to wire from the bulkhead at the light it doesn't source enough power to trigger the AutoSwitch relay. Not really sure what's going on, but I thought if I try to tap the power feed near the ECU any loss should be minimal.

Note that the device worked (pretty well actually) on my previous '07 GT, but for some dumb reason it won't work on an '08. Go figure.

Thanks for the help!

Mike

'08 K1200GT
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old Aug 27th, 2009, 7:58 pm
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If you have the Xenon headlamp it won't work. That's the news I got from AutoSwitch.

Dale
2008 K1200GT
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old Aug 27th, 2009, 8:01 pm Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by abercrombie_pafoofnick
If you have the Xenon headlamp it won't work. That's the news I got from AutoSwitch.
Yes, I have the Xenon, but I wonder if they're saying it won't work based on my experience with it.

I was on the phone with Raul from AutoSwitch when I was going through this a few months ago and the only thing he could suggest was trying to tap from the ECU.

I wonder if they did more testing and confirmed that there's no way it worked or are making this statement based on assumptions after I told them about the problem......

Mike

'08 K1200GT
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old Aug 27th, 2009, 8:49 pm
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You might want to call him back and verify, but I wanted to control some HID lights and he said it wouldn't work. I could be all wet about the stock headlamp but I know he said it would not control the HID driving lights. I could be leading you down the wrong path but it's worth a call.

Dale
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old Sep 12th, 2009, 9:25 pm
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Be aware that the CanBus doesn't think you need high beams when stopped, so at idle it only gives ~9 Vdc to the high beams. Once you rev the bike up and get moving they come up to full voltage and brightness. That caught me out when I tried to upgrade my high beams to HID and they wouldn't fire properly, and it was only after getting the voltage meter out that I figured out what was going on.

You might see if they have an AutoSwitch that triggers from the turn signal cancel button instead. Or else always approach your garage at speed and hope the door opens in time, just like Batman . . .

Ken
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old Sep 13th, 2009, 11:19 am
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Ken, the Canbus really cuts the voltage down? How does it do that? I'm no electrical guru but it seems it would have to reroute the power through some sort of resistor circuit. Sounds more that the alternator at low rpms just can't keep up. I know these bikes have lots of wacky over engineered features but my brain just can't figure out how it would do that.

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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old Sep 13th, 2009, 12:22 pm
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Think of the CanBus more as a small computer than as a collection of wires and resistors. It has a lot more control over things than we're used to.

It's been a while since I did the measurements, but I don't remember revving the bike up increased the high beam voltage. I think you had to be moving (getting a speed pulse signal from the ABS wheel sensors) to get the higher voltage.

So the limited high beam voltage may be an engineered response to lower alternator output at idle (to minimize draining the battery) rather than being caused by it.

Besides, the low beam HID fires right up when the bike is started and idling, so obviously it's getting full voltage then. And my GPS and other units powered by a CanBus line are also getting full voltage. But they're low-draw items, not like running 110 watts of high beam.

Ken
Pacific NorthWet
'13 Dark Graphite Metallic K16GTLD, 24K miles and counting...
'09 Magnesium Beige Metallic K13GT, 60K miles miles and counting...
'02 Mauve Metallic K12LTC, 106K miles and sold
BMWLT#145, IBA# 366, MOA# 111996, SCMA# 24032

All lower 48 states plus Alaska on the K13GT in two weeks . . .

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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old Sep 13th, 2009, 9:05 pm
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How about trying to connect it to the "up" or "down" side of the windshield motor switch?
Gilly

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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old Sep 13th, 2009, 9:48 pm
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The BMW dealer in Ventura, CA wired my Motolights through the turn-signal cancel switch. From the Autoswitch, it feeds a relay that turns the Motolights on and off. They wedged the operational LED off the Autoswitch into the clutch handle so it blinks red or green depending on if you are turning them on or off. I think the relay feeds right off the battery post.

The trigger wire goes intot he computer box under the right fairing. Don't know what they tapped into, but it does work the Motolights. I don't know why it wouldn't work the ballast of the HID.

The Autoswitch Ventura used was not the Can-Bus one as it wasn't out yet. Might call them and see if they sell them and ask them how to wire it. They may have a diagram.


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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old Sep 14th, 2009, 4:50 am
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A problem I see with using the turn sig cancel:
You are entering your driveway, and you used your turn signal before entering (especially likely if you live on a busy street). You could possibly press the turn signal cancel button while in the street (to raise the garage door) and cancel your signal earlier than you wanted, OR the opposite side of the coin, press the cancel button to cancel the signal while in the driveway, BUT the garage door was already opened (someone else was home and the door was open), so now you just activated the door to close instead of open.
Just a thought, I think the windshield switch would be perfect.
Gilly

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