Was looking at a S but now GT - K-Bikes.com - Excellence in Motion
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old Sep 3rd, 2009, 2:59 pm Thread Starter
 
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Was looking at a S but now GT

I had my next motorcycle purchased. I was getting a K1300S until I called the insurance company. They blew me away (literally)



Here are the quotes I got from my insurance agent which I have Progressive Insurance

K1300S $2,058 yr
K1300GT $ 741 yr
Kawasaki C14 $ 722 yr

They said the S rates were so much higher b/c they were classified as a "super bike" & the GT & C14 were classified as a touring bike. I just threw the C14 in there to see if they just hated on BMWs.

Does this higher rate on a S sound right?

2nd...I know there are gonna be routine maintenance repairs & if you have the dealer do them, then you're gonna expect some higher cost of maintenance.

With that said, I've been a mechanic for 16 yrs now & have more tools than I can add up or want to begin to start.

My next bike looks like it will be the K12300GT. I'm planning on doing my own routine maintenance & will purchase a service manual with the bike. Could someone answer me a couple questions about maintenance on a GT?

* How difficult are the valves to adjust & what intervals do they need adjusting? Are there any special tools required?

* Are there any electronic adjustments or calibrations that can only be done at the dealership & what are the intervals?

* Does the fairings or other items have to be removed when changing the engine oil & filter? Is changing the oil & filter a pain?

* Does anyone here do their own maintenance & have any advice or info that they're willing to share?

thanks for looking & the help
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old Sep 3rd, 2009, 5:16 pm
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OK, I'll start off...my answers interspersed with your questions...

* How difficult are the valves to adjust & what intervals do they need adjusting? Are there any special tools required?

Valves seldom need adjusting on this bike. Measuring clearances is relatively easy, adjusting clearances a little more difficult but not outside the scope of DIY'er. I did mine on a 1200LT and is was very satisfying.

* Are there any electronic adjustments or calibrations that can only be done at the dealership & what are the intervals?

The dealer can readout error codes on the electronics, but you can too if you buy a GS-911 device. I don't do brake fluid work on the BMW ABS equipped bikes, but some do it themselves.

* Does the fairings or other items have to be removed when changing the engine oil & filter? Is changing the oil & filter a pain?

No fairing removal required for oil/filter changes. My first change took 30 minutes total. The filter is fitted horizontally and is a bit hard to reach but not too tough. You may wan to get a pliers-type oil filter removal tool.

* Does anyone here do their own maintenance & have any advice or info that they're willing to share?

I do my own maintenance. Keep records of the work you do for warranty coverage, and maybe plan to take it to the dealer for an occasional service to keep them in the loop.

Tires are an area where I saved big by buying a changer (Harbor Freight cheap with expensive mojoblocks and levers) and getting tires from a discounter like SWMoto.

Doing your own maintenance, even some of it is a very satisfying experience and puts you more in touch with your machine in a way taking it to the dealer and paying a LOT for service cannot. YMMV

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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old Sep 3rd, 2009, 8:30 pm Thread Starter
 
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I appreciate the quick response & answers. That's what I was wanting to hear.

As far as the valves go, I've adjusted the valves on small gasoline engines & large diesel engines. I should have been more specific. I wanted to know how much stuff is required to remove off the bike to do it. Is it a 4 hr job or an 8 hr job? When you say they seldom need adjusting, is it more a periodic check & adjust as needed? What I ride now, the owner's manual states the valves should be checked every 12,000 miles.

I've averaged about 15,000 miles a year the past couple years. That may not be a lot of miles to some but I think its enough to justify routine maintenance questions.

I also just want to get a head's up on things. I know this isn't a Yamaha FJR but on those, you're supposed to do what Yamaha calls a Throttle Body Synchronization every 4,000 miles. I never knew this until talking to an FJR owner. Supposedly its not that difficult but its something I would want to know about before purchasing one.


Thanks again for the reply

I'm going to call my insurance agent again & try to talk them down on the S insurance. I still can't believe that the insurance on the S is 3 times higher than the GT. If those insurance prices are pretty standard, then I don't see how people afford to pay it.
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old Sep 3rd, 2009, 9:20 pm
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Wow on the insurance. I'm curious as to where you live and your age group. I'm 35 years old with a good driving record and had a rate for the Concours 14 at $220 per year with storage on it for Nov-March. 2007 BMW K1200GT is $253 per year with same program and $500.00 deductible and also covers any upgrades, aftermarket parts and electronics.

Jason
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old Sep 3rd, 2009, 9:29 pm
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You could buy the repair DVD on the K1200GT (e-Bay) to get an idea as to what you may need. I think there are a couple of special tools for the camshaft removal and replacement to change the shims, and another couple for the clutch pack. No doubt each tool is on the order of $100-$200 providing your dealer will order it for you (I think the shop guy has to get involved on some tool orders). There is some pressurized bleeder for the anti-freeze change too. Any software updates will need to be handled by the dealer and his computer and probably some firmware settings too (GS-911 isn't a replacement for the dealer's jobbie).

I think most people has said the dealer gets about 4 hours time for the valve check with an experienced tech doing it. If it needs adjustment, add two more hours. Someone may know better. I talked to one who said he can do the tranny cassette change-out in 1-1/2 hours which was less the the BMW time called for. He's evidently done a few.

Insurance? Pays to shop around. If you can avoid financing, you'll get a better rate. Drop the comp. and pay for any damages you do to the bike. That's the most expensive part of the policy I've found with sportbikes. If I drop mine now, I pay for it. No deductible. No claim. I've collected so much on initial claims (like a $4,500 motel knock-over that I had nothing to do with as I was asleep!) that my rates went through the roof and I had to change companies. Now I just shell out a couple of thousand to pay for the damn plastic if I cannot paint and fix it myself. Better than no insurance - or some $3,000/year one. I'm hedging on not dropping it as much as I have some backup plastic now that I can replace fairly quickly. Always seems when you got the parts, nothing breaks.

Good thing you checked beforehand on the insurance rates. Some don't. Mine was/is cheaper along with the car and the bike towing was added (fwiw, I've used Auto Club towing on the BMW bike more than the cars. Helps on rental car rates to get you home too while your bike is elsewhere.).

Good luck.


Mack
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old Sep 3rd, 2009, 10:11 pm Thread Starter
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigBadAllis
Wow on the insurance. I'm curious as to where you live and your age group. I'm 35 years old with a good driving record and had a rate for the Concours 14 at $220 per year with storage on it for Nov-March. 2007 BMW K1200GT is $253 per year with same program and $500.00 deductible and also covers any upgrades, aftermarket parts and electronics.

Jason
I live in upstate South Carolina. I'm 35 yrs old & married. I have a good driving record & my last speeding ticket is over 3 yrs old.

I priced a $500 deductible. A co-worker of mine just priced FJR insurance & they quoted him $800 yr & he's 40 & married.
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old Sep 3rd, 2009, 10:43 pm
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I'm in rural Ohio, age 57, clean record and pay about $200 for full coverage on K13GT (1000 deductible) and about the same for my HD VRod Street Rod. Just switched it from Progessive to Nationwide, where I have my auto/home and saved about $80/year.
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old Sep 4th, 2009, 4:49 am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigBadAllis
Wow on the insurance. I'm curious as to where you live and your age group. I'm 35 years old with a good driving record and had a rate for the Concours 14 at $220 per year with storage on it for Nov-March. 2007 BMW K1200GT is $253 per year with same program and $500.00 deductible and also covers any upgrades, aftermarket parts and electronics.

Jason
What insurance company do you have that allows "storage" from Nov-March???
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old Sep 4th, 2009, 5:33 am
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My quotes were about $500/yr K1300GT and $1600/yr K1300S, so that relationship appears to be pretty consistent. You'll actually pay more to own and insure the S than the GT, so get whichever one you like better.

2009 K1300GT (Red) :
-----------------------------------
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old Sep 4th, 2009, 7:37 am
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My experiences with maintaining new K bikes.

* How difficult are the valves to adjust & what intervals do they need adjusting? Are there any special tools required?

To get to the valves, the radiator needs to be removed. Coolant therefore gets changed & bled. It's nothing like doing a brick engine. 18K interval to check them. While you're in there, change the sparkum plugs.

* Are there any electronic adjustments or calibrations that can only be done at the dealership & what are the intervals?

Yes. Software updates are proprietary & have to be done by dealer. If yours is hesitating from off to on throttle (common issue) the newer version might help. To check codes requires a reader. You can buy the tool from Ted or others for $300 or whatever, or smile real big at your service manager & maybe get it checked for little $$.

* Does the fairings or other items have to be removed when changing the engine oil & filter? Is changing the oil & filter a pain?

Oil & filter is easier than most any prior BMW. The exterior line on the right side of the tank removes at the top, pivots around to drain it. Drain plug between headers towards rear of engine is accessible w/o removing belly pan, if I remember. Filter is a close fit, but accessible. Very easy job.

* Does anyone here do their own maintenance & have any advice or info that they're willing to share?

I do my own maintenance, change tires, etc. I wouldn't try the valve adjustment, because the bulk of the work is getting to it. I think there are special bucket compressors, which I don't have. So, if I pull it apart & find that I need a different shim, I'd have to haul the mess to the shop.

Valve adjustment is on an 18K interval. $400-500 every 18K miles ain't awful. Nothing like having an oilhead, but still.

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