Front brake pads - uneven wear - K-Bikes.com - Excellence in Motion
 
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old Sep 8th, 2009, 10:01 pm Thread Starter
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Front brake pads - uneven wear

Just mic'd the front pads: Left - inside = 2mm, outside = 4.5mm; Right - in = 4mm, out = 4.5mm.

Is this unusual for one pad to wear much more quickly? Sticky caliper on one side? Worth doing the warranty fight, or just bite the $bullet$ and replace them all?

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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old Sep 9th, 2009, 12:50 am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidS
Just mic'd the front pads: Left - inside = 2mm, outside = 4.5mm; Right - in = 4mm, out = 4.5mm.

Is this unusual for one pad to wear much more quickly? Sticky caliper on one side? Worth doing the warranty fight, or just bite the $bullet$ and replace them all?
Mine did the same but not quite as bad as yours. I just bought some EBC pads and changed the thin pad only. I'll check again in 5 or 10K and replace the other pad. Maybe some one else knows if this is because of a caliper problem.

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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old Sep 9th, 2009, 1:02 am
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I think BMW does a poor job of centering the calipers on the rotors. With opposed pistons, it shouldn't make much difference, but I bet there may be a little problem with piston retraction especially on the Tokico calipers.

Check to make sure you pistons retract smoothly. If not, maybe a caliper rebuild with new seals is in order. Or just a good cleaning.

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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old Sep 9th, 2009, 8:51 am Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sanjaun2
Mine did the same but not quite as bad as yours. I just bought some EBC pads and changed the thin pad only. I'll check again in 5 or 10K and replace the other pad. Maybe some one else knows if this is because of a caliper problem.
I thought that using aftermarket pads screws up the pad wear sensor and you get a constant warning light. I also thought that you have to change all the pads at once for even pressure on the rotor. Please correct me if I'm wrong.

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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old Sep 9th, 2009, 9:10 am
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Yes it's bad practice to change one side in a caliper pair.

If one side wears more than the other (to a large degree) there's a reason for it and one reason could mean braking effort has actually gone down. This is a fairly new bike, so there shouldn't be the sticking piston problems I've had on my bike. The problem can start with a brake overheat, but remains and can get worse if the pistons are sticking because all the friction effort is going through the free pistons and rotor which will run hotter.

Here are some possibilities:

Rotors not running true or badly scored.

Piston(s) sticking on the side that's not wearing.

It's quite easy to check with the rear wheel off the ground if there is too much drag. Sticky pistons is a bit more difficult, you have to suck out a little brake fluid to stop overflow, push the pistons back. If they don't go back easy they are seized. Then get somebody to slowly apply the brake, the pistons that move last are possible sticky ones.

I usually do this check with the calipers off the bike annually with an air line. A piston not moving with more than 5psi in my view is a problem.

After a short test ride using the brakes, both rotors should be about the same temperature. If both are very hot that suggests drag, but if one is very much hotter, that suggests sticking pistons. An IR thermometer is quite useful for checking.


The calipers BMW use don't have really good dust seals and boots and if the fluid isn't changed regularly you can get problems from internal corrosion.

Replacing pads won't help sticking pistons, I'd do a few checks first and if confirmed definitely go for warranty.



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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old Sep 10th, 2009, 3:57 am
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David,
I got tired of false warnings and way to expensive pads. So I removed the sensors and crimped the two wires together. I just check the pads at tire changes. As far as changing pads at the same time, The dealer was changing one side at a time when I brought the bike back in for the sensors going bad. They saw no problem with it and I trust my dealer. I do agree with JCW and Voxmagna. Uneven wear is a sign that something is not quite right.

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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old Sep 10th, 2009, 11:29 am
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Originally Posted by sanjaun2
David,
I got tired of false warnings and way to expensive pads. So I removed the sensors and crimped the two wires together. I just check the pads at tire changes. As far as changing pads at the same time, The dealer was changing one side at a time when I brought the bike back in for the sensors going bad. They saw no problem with it and I trust my dealer. I do agree with JCW and Voxmagna. Uneven wear is a sign that something is not quite right.
{So I removed the sensors and crimped the two wires together.} I just order the EBC sets when you crimped the wires together did the warring light go out also where did you crimped the wires at. I'm a newbie at working on bikes so if you have any pictures that would help. Thanks in advance.
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old Sep 10th, 2009, 12:06 pm
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Been through this as well, nothing sticking, all moves well and equally (used a dial indicator to double check), just wears cockeyed. All three calipers do it, the rear is the worst. To the naked eye, things "seem" centered, but clearly something is not. I have decided to just put up with it for a while longer and then replace all my rotors with floaters and be done with it.

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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old Sep 10th, 2009, 12:42 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DCRider
{So I removed the sensors and crimped the two wires together.} I just order the EBC sets when you crimped the wires together did the warring light go out also where did you crimped the wires at. I'm a newbie at working on bikes so if you have any pictures that would help. Thanks in advance.
DCRIDER,
Sorry but I do not have any pics. But it is a pretty simple process. Do it with the ign switch off so you do not trigger a fault while messing around. Follow the wires to the brake pad. The sensor just clips on the pad. Carefully remove it in case you want to use them again later I used a flat blade screw driver. Follow the wires up to the connector and disconnect it. Cut the wires about and inch below the connector and crimp the wires together. Heat shrink over the crimp to keep the moisture out.. Plug the connector back in and repeat for the other sensors. This will not turn off warning light if it was already on. Just prevent it from coming on in the future. But remember to check your pads from time to time!

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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old Sep 10th, 2009, 11:21 pm
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It took about 25-30 minutes or miles of riding for the light to reset.
Depending on the software version it can be immediate or require the dealer to reset

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